When checking the ignition timing with a timing light, the Raptor Service Manual states on page 3-17 to check the pulser coil if the stationary pointer is not within the required firing range indicated on the flywheel. How do you check the pulser coil? Can you advance the timing? If so, what is the process?

The reason I am looking at this is that I don't think my Raptor has the low-end torque everyone else seems to think it has. If I am in 2nd gear rolling along at idle speed and nail the throttle, it practically makes the engine knock. I've tried 93 octane from several stations. I run a 12/41 sprocket combo and everything else is stock. Once I am in the mid-RPM range, the engine rocks. I have no problem climbing long, steep hills all the way up to 5th gear as long as I keep it in the mid to upper-RPM range.

I have been patiently waiting for the 6 month warranty to expire before I start modifying the bike. I plan to get the GYTR tip, a new airbox, rejet, & keep the factory headpipe. I want more low-end torque since I need instaneous throttle on the tight MX tracks I ride. I have friends with modified 400exs that eat my stock Raptor on this track due to the tight jumps. I've ridden their bikes and know it isn't me since I can handle the track well on their bikes. This track is a finesse track. There are multiple sets of doubles. If you go too fast, you will case it on the ramp of the next set of doubles. If you go slow enough to land on the lander then you might not have enough power to clear the next double. I can make it if all is perfect; otherwise, it is less than steller. I can handle the same track on the 400exs without any problems - plenty of room for error due to the low end torque that equates to fast pickup for these quads.

This is the only area I have a problem with the Raptor. I dust these guys when the trails open up a little and forget it if there is a long hillclimb or a long stretch of road. I get to the top and eat my lunch waiting for everyone else to show up.

If the new mods are the answer then I will stop trying to solve a problem that isn't really there. Am I the only one who thinks a Raptor doesn't have much low-end torque? I think my bike is sick from the 1,500 to 4,000 RPM range. However, I've only lost one drag race because I sat back too far and wheelied at the start. I still got the front-end down and gained on everyone only to loose by a bike length. Definitely would have come out on top if we had another 40' to go since I was gaining quickly. I really don't think my bike runs poorly overall, just at the low-end. I would expect the bike to kill even a modified 400 from start to finish but it is pretty close for the first 50 yards even when I get the jump on everyone. Maybe that is why I've read that a few guys are running as high as a 46 tooth on the rear on MX tracks. This seems to me to be further evidence that this quad is not tuned for low-end torque as much as upper RPM horsepower.

Thanks for any insight.

 

If you have been patiently waiting for the 6 month warranty to end and have 1 day left, then take it to your dealer and explain you think something is wrong. Why not?

Maybe you can be there when they look at it and learn how to check the pulser cable.

 

My Raptor has the same problem. No ***** at all until it revs up a little. Everything is still stock, engine-wise.

 

If you guys havn't already take out the spark arrestor to see if it has a bunch of pipe packing in it, mine was getting an awful lot the first couple mounths I had it!! While you have it out run it and see if it feels better.

 

I'll give the baffle trick a try. In the meantime, I ordered the new GYTR Carbon Fiber tip. Now planning to modify the stock airbox and then take it to a shop that specializes in aftermarket ATV/MX work for the jetting work. Hopefully this gives me what I am seeking.

Also, planning to go back to the 13 front with a 43 rear. Keep hearing about the power loss from running the chain on such a tight circle in the front not to mention that it is harder on the engine. Also heard that Yamaha corrected a problem in the head design sometime during the year and I might have one that is causing this problem. It has something to do with the shape on the inside dome. I need to do a little more research on this though to find out the particulars and to see if the part numbers changed.

Keep the ideas coming. At this point I will try just about anything. I have a Voodoo guy coming tomorrow to stick needles in a replica...

 

I hae the GYT-R aluminuim pipe and like it, it seems to help mid and upper RPM alot!! The fit isnt the best thou, keep an eye on it mine has loosend up and came off the head pipe twice. The spark arrestor also rattles, but if you take the end cap off and put a little shim in there it will stop it.

 

I checked the spark arrestor today. It didn't have any packing in it but the bike did run better without it. The knocking went away when I idled along in 2nd gear and nailed it. It wasn't instantaneous power but it did almost lift the front wheels off the ground once it started to pick up. Once it hit the meat of the powerband, it would lift the front end right off the ground no problem.

I also took the bolt out of the bottom and tested that with the spark arrestor re-installed. That was an improvement too - maybe not quite as dramatic but it was much quieter and the bike still didn't seem like it wanted to knock.

At this point, I am going to count on the other mods and rejetting to wake things up. If that doesn't do it then I am moving to higher compression piston and mild cam change.

 

NotoRaptor try moving your needles to the number four position. Another words move the clip down one notch. That controls 1/4-3/4 throttle. Your main jet does 3/4 to redline. Pilots do 0-1/8,1/4 throttle. Maybe you need 25 pilots, stock is 22.5.........