peltrax , right on heh heh. mudmontster im leaning towrds a 400ex but its hard to find a used one near where i live.

 

Anyone got any suggestions on the Air filter box?

 

Yeah I got a suggestion on the air filter; can it and put direct Uni on the Carb.

 

i dont know about blaster air filters but on my raptors ihave my lid offf my box and i have furnace filter ontop with rubber bandsa holding it on and it made so big of a difference i had to jet it again!

 

dude, the screws are not bad to take off. unless they changed something. Mine is a 2000, and i just take the 4 screws off, take the screw outta the filter, clean it, reassemle then ride. Easier than warriors.

 

I dunno maybe its just cuz we just got it but youi keep untightning and it doesnt seem to be getti getting any looser,and you also have to take off 4 on the bottom too,it is really weird,but overall i love my blaster!!!!!by the way mxfullboreblaster,how do you like your rim fast treker tire set up in the back??Do the aluminum rims feel liughter on the trail??i ride 80 % sandy trails and sandy powerline roads and 20 hard clay and want a light tire that slides good.How do you like your fast trekers??That was the exact set up i was thinking about getting..

 

Straight from the master of 2 strokes Rick AKA MACDIZZY he's talking about a Blaster engine he rebuilt but this is a very good prcedure www.macdizzy.com


I prefer the words "run in" to "break in" because it sounds less destructive. During the first couple of
minutes a fresh engine is running I like to lightly blip the throttle - between idle and about twice idle
speed. It is my intention to warm the engine and feel the tightness of the freshly assembled mill. A couple
of minutes running like this with an air cooled single is plenty of time. I then let it cool completely and
perform a compression test so I can use the information as a benchmark to compare against some time
later. A static compression test is kind of like checking the blood pressure of the engine - it checks its
current state. Drops in pressure can mean things are starting to show wear (rings-piston-bore), while
increases in compression are more likely due to carbon build up on the piston crown or combustion
chamber dome. In either case, even if the compression is fine and the hours have stacked up - change
the piston and associated parts out at a specific interval. For this engine I feel safe with 45 hours. Metals
are elastic materials that can only withstand a certain number of stress cycles. Going beyond that
number is not wise. Unfortunately, that number is determined by experience - the driver is the only
person who knows what conditions he/she has subjected the engine to. Unlike a baby that will start
crying when its diaper needs changing, the two stroke engine will start spewing parts to indicate its
"feelings." It's better to change the "disposables" a little early to prevent them from getting s(p)oiled.

I'm not one to add more oil to the gas during run in because I'd rather not mess with the jetting that
much and it's not necessary in most cases. Some oil injected engines require a small boost of oil - by
adding it to the raw gas. Usually the piston manufacturer will include any special startup or "first tankful"
instructions along with the piston kit - there was no such instructions with this kit anyway. I have seen
the additional oil requirement on a few engines - the Suzuki LT80 comes to mind as well as the Yamaha
GP760. I'll mix 5 gallons of fresh 92 octane gasoline at a ratio of 50:1 using the AmsOil Series 2000
synthetic oil. This will be the ratio during startup, run in and it's running life. As it is right now the interior
of the engine was assembled using a very light coat of two-stroke oil on its piston and associated parts,
B.E. and main bearings and cylinder wall. There's more than enough oil available for start up during the
kick starting procedure.

I don't "go for it" right after starting up a fresh top, but I don't baby it either. I'll spend more time
warming up the engine before taking off and I'll avoid running under no load but that's about it. It's
probably best (especially with a forged piston that has to grow more to fit the bore) to fully warm up the
engine before taking off - it takes a few minutes if the engine is stone cold. The purpose is to get the
internals up to operating temperature - or at least a temperature that's safe to take off from. Failure to
do this can result in a cold seizure - not a good thing, though more typical of a liquid cooled engine. For
the most part I run in an engine the way I ride it - hard! Running in a top end means letting the rings
wear against the bore in a way that leaves the bore smooth and the rings with an area that is smooth and
will seal well. It is the bottom side of the rings that provide the sealing of combustion pressure. The
pressure of the rings against the bore determine how well that seal will be. Experience has shown me
that the "run in" period occurs quickly with two strokes and waiting too long for "it" to happen takes too
much time away from the available life expectancy of the parts. One tank of gas is all it gets to do its
duty. During that tankful I'll take it to all operating speeds - including full throttle, though it'll not be
subject to sustained periods at any RPM.

If you click on the Thread Spread link within my web site you'll come across a short response I gave to
someone some time ago regarding what oil ratio to use during break in - it just happens that the person
was asking about it for his Blaster. I've copied it here for easy reference.

 

We talked to the dealer about the air box problem today and he said the other 2002 blaster he sold had the same problem,it seems the screw in the filter are all stripped or something so he said to cut off the head of the screw and put in new screws and nuts.I guess its only on the 2002 blasters,he said hed do it under warranty but well do it tommrow.