[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]I had just purchased a new 2002 grizzly 660 about two weeks ago and my first thoughts as i was starting up the hollow were i live on my first ride was MAN I LOVE THIS THING .but about 3 miles up the hollow i stoped for a cold drink.i then looked around at my grizzly and saw smoke comming from the rearend.i thought ooooNO not the rearend at 3 & 1/2 miles & new. i cheeked to see how hot it was by touching the rearend and it was so hot that it burnt my hand.i saw what looked like greese comming from the rearend seal.i theen cheeked the geer oil in the rearend and it WAS HOTTT but full.so i thought well ill try to get it back home.imade it back home and took a real good look at the rearend and noticed that the break roatery had turned blue and the rearend had cooled down.so i got back on the 4 wheeler and road around the yard about 4 times and stoped and got off and cheeked it and it cool but wheen i got back on to take off aging it wouldent move .the back brakes had stuck and the brake lever on the handel bar was ajusted all the way in so i took the small cover off that hides the back brake master cylender and found an ajustment for the back brakes and backed them off. its in the shop now the mechanic is going to look at it and let me know what it needs and the warnty will cover it . has any one else had any trouble with the brakes like this.

 

Sounds like misadjusted rear brake where the master cylinder is always preloaded (no freeply when released). This will cause brake fluid to build pressure with heat and cause brakes to drag.

My dealer showed me a tech tip from Yamaha on how to properly adjust the brakes. You should try to get a copy of this - it's good stuff.

Once the brakes are adjusted correctly, it should never require adjustment unless the brakes were totally rebuilt.

As I recall, first loosen up the brake cable at both end. Tighten the botton cable adjuster so that it is at its loose (run the adjuster in all the way) position. Adjust the pedal height with master cylinder rod adjuster so that it is 3" from floor board and tighten the rod nut. Now adjust the cable at lever so there is cable freeplay and the brakes come on about half way point.

Then adjust the brake switch and reverse lock out cable to minimun freeplay (slack).

When its correct, you should have some freeplay at the pedal and the master cylinder pin which means the master cylinder rod is not loaded when released.

Hope this helps but get a copy of the tip from your dealer and follow it step by step.

Good luck.