Does the Raptor realy need more low end?
#1
Does the Raptor realy need more low end? I mean its a 4 stroke they are known for their low end does it need a low end pipe?
I would be riding trails, Hill climbs, some mud, some MX,and just playing around what do you think would be a good pipe and tire combo for me?
Also what other mods should I do for this stuff also?
thanks for all the help in advanced!
I would be riding trails, Hill climbs, some mud, some MX,and just playing around what do you think would be a good pipe and tire combo for me?
Also what other mods should I do for this stuff also?
thanks for all the help in advanced!
#2
#3
If I remember correctly, you are a large person (250-260 range). Right off the bat, I can tell you that the suspension will not work for you. Plan on at least getting new front shocks. Also plan on getting new front tires after the 2-ply stock tires either wear out or you get tired of plugging the sidewalls (Florida still has those damn plants growing everywhere that is more like a rock sticking out of the ground, right?). Try talking the dealership into trading you a set of ITP .190 aluminum rims with Holeshot XCs on the front for the factory front rims and tires.
I would say that RAPTORYFM660r is probably right that you will have more than enough power. The new gearing ratios should help quite a bit and you can always put a 43 on the rear (you will lose about 4 mph on the top end but do you really need to go 70+ mph anyhow?). I doubt your hill climbs will be all that high living in Florida unless you plan to travel North a few states.
If after owning it a while you find that you would like more low-end torque, get the GYTR aluminum or carbon-fiber tip, open the airbox some, and get a Dynojet kit. The GYTR tip is an excellent choice since it works with the factory headpipe (saving $$$) or you could pick one up used even cheaper on e-bay (you might have to repack it though).
/NotuRaptor
I would say that RAPTORYFM660r is probably right that you will have more than enough power. The new gearing ratios should help quite a bit and you can always put a 43 on the rear (you will lose about 4 mph on the top end but do you really need to go 70+ mph anyhow?). I doubt your hill climbs will be all that high living in Florida unless you plan to travel North a few states.
If after owning it a while you find that you would like more low-end torque, get the GYTR aluminum or carbon-fiber tip, open the airbox some, and get a Dynojet kit. The GYTR tip is an excellent choice since it works with the factory headpipe (saving $$$) or you could pick one up used even cheaper on e-bay (you might have to repack it though).
/NotuRaptor
#4
Yes Florida still has those stupid sharp roots (Palm Bushes) at least were I ride.
As for the hill climbs they arn't that tall around here but some are steep with not much "Get up and go room" And I will take it to Wisconsin about every other year for 3 months and my grandmas house is on 20+ Acres on a mountain rocky (but not the Rockies lol).
What would be a shock would be a good choice?
Also what would be the best rear tires (in your opinion)?
Thanks for the help
As for the hill climbs they arn't that tall around here but some are steep with not much "Get up and go room" And I will take it to Wisconsin about every other year for 3 months and my grandmas house is on 20+ Acres on a mountain rocky (but not the Rockies lol).
What would be a shock would be a good choice?
Also what would be the best rear tires (in your opinion)?
Thanks for the help
#5
Yep that is it, a Palmetto. I helped my dad clear 2.5 acres of those suckers in St. Cloud, Florida. They look like lobsters once you pull them out of the ground.
I am not an expert on shocks. I just read what everyone had to say and ended up getting Elka triple rates. You are too big for these though. You need dual rate springs up front. Forget the sag control everyone talks about. It won't help you. You can talk to the engineers at either TCS or Elka and they will tell you the same. In fact, TCS is hesitant to put a triple rate on the front of a Raptor anyhow.
My opinion on the rear tire would be the Holeshot XC. It is a 6-ply tire and I think the added sidewall protection more than offsets the additional weight of the tire. You will have plenty of engine to power them anyhow. If not, you will notice a night and day difference between stock and having the GYTR tip, opening the airbox, and using a Dynojet kit.
Are you close to getting a new Raptor? If not, this will be a never ending process since things will probably change again in 6 months.
/NotuRaptor
I am not an expert on shocks. I just read what everyone had to say and ended up getting Elka triple rates. You are too big for these though. You need dual rate springs up front. Forget the sag control everyone talks about. It won't help you. You can talk to the engineers at either TCS or Elka and they will tell you the same. In fact, TCS is hesitant to put a triple rate on the front of a Raptor anyhow.
My opinion on the rear tire would be the Holeshot XC. It is a 6-ply tire and I think the added sidewall protection more than offsets the additional weight of the tire. You will have plenty of engine to power them anyhow. If not, you will notice a night and day difference between stock and having the GYTR tip, opening the airbox, and using a Dynojet kit.
Are you close to getting a new Raptor? If not, this will be a never ending process since things will probably change again in 6 months.
/NotuRaptor
#7
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#8
#9
I am not quite as big (only 220 after a meal) and I would agree that anything over 6' of air will bottom the fronts. I am OK on the rear, but I definitely get deep into the travel. I was going to look for some Works shocks since they can valve/spring them for my size and riding style. I would rather have shocks that suit me than infinitely adjustable units as I mostly ride trails/desert/and non-competitive MX track.
As far as tires go, I plan on the Bandits. They seem to be well recognized for their durability and I figure I can live on a 4ply as I don't do much on rocks, but if the 6 plys are pretty close, I will go that way. I know that rolling/unsprung weight has a bigger effect on bicycles, so I would assume that saving weight on rims/tires would be a good investment here as well. The stock tires suffered a nice 1/8" puncture on some sharp rocks I hit on a climb in Wallace, ID on Labor Day and I won't be replacing them with the same tires. I also run a 12T front sprocket - makes it easier to launch and ride on tight trails.
As far as tires go, I plan on the Bandits. They seem to be well recognized for their durability and I figure I can live on a 4ply as I don't do much on rocks, but if the 6 plys are pretty close, I will go that way. I know that rolling/unsprung weight has a bigger effect on bicycles, so I would assume that saving weight on rims/tires would be a good investment here as well. The stock tires suffered a nice 1/8" puncture on some sharp rocks I hit on a climb in Wallace, ID on Labor Day and I won't be replacing them with the same tires. I also run a 12T front sprocket - makes it easier to launch and ride on tight trails.