Slight Hesitation when letting off the throttle on 'da blue beast
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#3
P-bomb h-pipe /w stock muffler (to keep noise acceptable) /w no baffle
Pro-Flo
Sparks Timing Key
snorkle unrestricted
Dyno-jet kit /w 144-146<<(edited instead of 166) mains
27.5 pilots
Runs strong except the very slight burble when letting off the throttle in mid range and top end. THis just happenned when I installed the jet kit. Thanks.
#4
I see 2 items there that could be responsible: the sparks timing advance key (woodruf key) advances the timing good for high rpm but causes a loss at the low end, and 144-166 that is a huge spread on your main jets I would suggest acloser spread on the jets (155-160 at most) I try to keep jets 2-4 units apart, I run 144-146 and 140-142 when I go higher altitude, I ride at 5000-8000' altitude, you might also think about boosting your pilot jet to 25 or even 27.5 if you are running mains that big. I hope some of this helps
#5
vraptor.....thats 144-146....sorry about the typo. My pilots are currently 27.5's. The timing key has been installed for about 1.5 months now. When I installed it, I picked up a solid 2-3 atv lengths through a 100 yards with no adverse affects.
Yesterday evening, I checked my plug and it is slightly on the rich side. My floats are way high....I believe this is my problem. I wonder if the new needles and mains from the jet kit actually cause the fuel level to rise in the bowls? Weird stuff.....Thanks for the help.
Yesterday evening, I checked my plug and it is slightly on the rich side. My floats are way high....I believe this is my problem. I wonder if the new needles and mains from the jet kit actually cause the fuel level to rise in the bowls? Weird stuff.....Thanks for the help.
#6
I was wondering about that 20 unit difference in jet size, glad to see it was a typo. How did the install on woodruf key go? I ordered one about 6 weeks ago but had second thoughts about installing it when it looked like I was going to have to pull my clutch out to install it, figured I would wait till I replaced the clutch to do it.
On the float bowls bending that clip is risky, I just make sure mine are the same on both sides. is your needle jet set on the 4th notch from the bottom?
On the float bowls bending that clip is risky, I just make sure mine are the same on both sides. is your needle jet set on the 4th notch from the bottom?
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#8
<< How did the install on woodruf key go? >>
Piece of cake.....drain oil, take side cover off (left side as you are sitting on quad), next I used a 3 prong flywheel puller and an impact wrench to get the flywheel off. You will need 3 long (3-4" metric bolts for the flywheen puller, I forget the thread pattern .....a search should reveal this. Next install the key as per instructions (with offset allowing flywheel to turn slightly more counterclockwise than normal) and slip the flywheel on. Next, I coated the threads on the shaft with loctite "blue" (medium). Heres the kicker where I feel some people could mess up.......I had a bud hold the flywheel to keep the timing advanced while tightening the main outside nut up. It would be easy to loose part of the advance the key gives if no-one would hold the flywheel (since the nut is torqueing clockwise). I have read that a modified Raptor does'nt gain a thing from this procedure.....why not turn the key around and see if the modded Raptor likes "less" timing than stock?
The floats have to be lowered, I will do this and then take look at the slide position. The slided are in correct and in the 4th position from top....Raptor720...do you think I could be too rich? It runs strong through top end now with no hesitation whille on the gas. THanks guys!!
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