Raptor dyno testing
#1
Well after all this talk about how, we who bought full systems got ripped off...I decided to take my bike to my local shop for a Dyno test...well I dropped off my raptor and should get it back tonight or first thing tomarrow.......I will post my results....
#2
Is that the P-bomb or the hi-flo header?
Do you have a Dyno-jet kit installed? If so, what mains are you running?
Are you running a stock or modified airbox?
Are they gonna tinker with it or run it "as-is"?
Thanks and good luck.
Do you have a Dyno-jet kit installed? If so, what mains are you running?
Are you running a stock or modified airbox?
Are they gonna tinker with it or run it "as-is"?
Thanks and good luck.
#3
actually, rivayamaha got together with FMF to make a full system for Riva...so my header is made by fmf for yamaha so I dont know if its over sized...My jetting sizes are 150/155. They are just gonna run it as far as I know, make suggestions when I pick it up....One thing I am confused about is I mix 110 octane with 93 octane to get around 101 octane and seems to me it makes more power. The guys at the shop told me that it will probably make more power running 87 octane, unless I have a high compression piston and cam etc. I feel like the 102 make more power, any thought on this???
#4
The additional octane will not help performance unless your engine needs a higher fuel octane rating. Needs meaning slowing the burn process down because of high cylinder pressures.
Have you not even cut the restrictions out of your snorkle?
Have you not even cut the restrictions out of your snorkle?
#5
no, i havnt done anything with the airbox because i ride in alot of wet places woods and what not.....dont wanna take in water...a couple trails we shut off the bikes and float them across........what exactly is it you cut and where?
u can see my bike at the link below..
u can see my bike at the link below..
#6
On the front of the air box is the snorkle. Loosen the clamp that attaches the snorkle to the air box and slide the crank case breather hose off (just tug on it and it will slip off). Now, take the lid off, then you can pull the snorkle right out and take a look at it. Look down into the snorkle. Notice that there is a bridge in the center for the length of the snorkle....this is for support. Now notice that about half of the snorkle is blocked off. These "tabs" can be cut right out of there....be careful and not cut the "bridge" though. These tabs restrict air flow....I suspect your #'s will be a little on the low side. Have you checked your plug after a wide open run?
#7
No, I don't know what that does, but i can do it, what do u look for?? what does this tell me??? wont the dyno tell me the same thing?
Trending Topics
#8
A proper dyno graph will indicate a rich or lean condition at any RPM. If you wind up being rich on top, cut the snorkle tabs out and retry the dyno test (if you have the available cash and need to know if this clears up top end).
#10
king raptor,
I can't say I agree with you here.
I've run race fuel in all different types of bikes and quads and I have noticed a much snappier response out of 8.5:1 comp and thier abouts.
I do know from dyno testing that fuel is very important with bottom and mid range horse power graphs, now top end wich every one here is always so concerned with I find not as touchy with different fuels.
But how do you base this, higher octain means cooler and cleaner burning.
I'm not trying to argue, just realy like your thoughts~!!
I can't say I agree with you here.
I've run race fuel in all different types of bikes and quads and I have noticed a much snappier response out of 8.5:1 comp and thier abouts.
I do know from dyno testing that fuel is very important with bottom and mid range horse power graphs, now top end wich every one here is always so concerned with I find not as touchy with different fuels.
But how do you base this, higher octain means cooler and cleaner burning.
I'm not trying to argue, just realy like your thoughts~!!


