well my 400ex is sold and im gonna get a banshee. i plan on racing at southwick and jolly rogers mx tracks so i need some help setting it up so far i was thinking i was gonna get toomey pipes, v-force reeds, and some sort of porting( any recomendations) also im gonna get the air box fixed and run a cool head along with the prodesign radiator and advance the timing 4 degrees what do you guys think?? also do i really need bigger a arms i was just gonna get shocks will that be ok?? any help would be great..
also next winter i am planning on skimming water at my local lake its about 20-30 yards ive mad it 15 on my 400ex any one ever tried this before??

 

Get extended A-Arms and Axle with aftermarket shocks. Some better tires than stockers. Get some Nerf Bars. Maybe different handlebars

 

Put your money in a-arms, axle, and shocks. Get that thing as close to 50" wide as you can. Plus 3" a-arms should be the right size.

 

FOR SURE:

+2 +1 A Arms
Elka Triple Rate with Rezzies
-2 Swingarm
+2 Axle
Holeshot Mx Tires all around on .190
Pipes (LOW END PIPE:NOT TOOMEYS... PTR, MOTOFAST, DMC are good)
Filter with Outerwear
Smaller front sprocket and larger rear sprocket
Nerf Bars
Kill switch


OPTIONAL:

Handlebars
Grab bar
Front and Rear bumper
Skid Plates
Steering Stabalizer
Single Carb
Reeds
case saver
MORE MOTOR WORK!!!
ETC... Could go on and on until you are broke...


You should make the quad handle before you make more power. You will be faster with a quad that has less horsepower but can handle than you would be with a quad with gobs of power and no handling.

I am doing the same thing to my banshee as we speak. If you have anymore questions, email me at amaritto@yahoo.com

 

The real question is, how much do you want to spend? Eq is right though, do all the stuff he said. Nerfs and a Tether kill switch are required to race MX. Pipe/filter/cool head, then suspension/handling mods. If you have anymore money, port&polish for MX track. Make sure when you get pipes that they are ones that will help the bottom end power that the Banshee lacks.

 

Phaskell, I was in your shoes about 4 months ago. Here's what I did:

The way I feel is, if you don't use 6th gear, you dont need to go faster. So I opted for suspension mods 1st. I bought Works dual rates, with remote rezzies, and threaded preloads. Then, some +2+1 Lonestar a-arms, set with a negative camber. After the shock revalve, I felt that it was adequate. I was planning on getting an axle soon, but instead, I got a 250R. If you're going to buy an axle, get a Lonestar. Durablue's will snap off big jumps. After all that, a swingarm is in line. Lonestar also makes a good swingarm. Twin row carrier as well.

To get your Shee ready to ride, I would recommend a set of CR Renthals, or whatever bars you like. I myself use Pro-Tapers, but whatever you prefer. Then, I bought a CEET gripper cover, that allows me to use more body english.

I also added a K&N filter, FMF Powercore silencers, and some more little stuff along the way. I'm now trying to sell my Banshee, but, that's the way it goes.

Oh, one last thing. Contrary to popular belief, you DO NOT have to have extended brake lines with +2+1 a-arms on the banshee. Don't waste your money.

 

phaskell- Definately go with chassis upgrades first.


Front End:

A-Arms/Width- Laegers or Lone Star/+2+1.
Spindles- Stock.
Front Shocks- Custom Axis, PEP, Elka Suspension, or TCS.
Steering Stem- Lone Star or Laeger Anti-Vibe.
Steering Stabalizer- Denton or PEP.

Rear End:

Swingarm/Length- Lonestar or Laeger/Stock (round housing)
Rear Axle/Carrier- Lone Star,Lone Star Round
Rear Shock- Custom Axis, PEP, Elka Suspension, or TCS.

Tires/Wheels/Hubs:

Tires F & R- Holeshot MX
Wheels- Douglas Ultimate
Beadlocks- Front and Rear
Hubs F & R- Baldwin/Dura-Blue


Handle Bars/Controls:

Handlebars/Bend- Tag T-2/CR-Hi
Clutch Lever- RTC
Teather Kill- Pro Design
Front Brake Lever- RTC
Brake Pedal- Hinson -1"
Shifter- Pro Design

Miscellaneous:

Nerf Bars- AC Racing Pro Peg
Front & Rear Bumpers- AC Racing
Skidplate- AC Racing
Plastic- Stock (cut for racing) or Fullbore
other- remove all extra weight not needed. ex. headlights.


You will have a trick banshee if you can follow a setup like this. If you have any money left over, then start on the motor. I would recommend a two into one pipe and carb. Whatever it is you decide just have fun and enjoy riding and racing. Good Luck- MrP.

 

Phaskell – I race in the NEATV series and started out on a stock Banshee as well. (Buit a 250R over a year ago instead of modded the shee).

For starters, you will need a kill switch and nerfs. Or else you will not pass inspection.

Now I started out completely stock. At the time, I was new to quads and racing and I found the Banshee a handful. My first mod was a set of Paul Turner Mid Range pipes/Fat Boy silencers and a K&N. The difference was night and day. Before the pipes I was shifting up to 3 times on the straights to stay in the powerband. After the pipes, maybe one shift was required, sometimes I could carry the gear down the straight. Setting up for the jumps was a lot easier. On the Banshee, you need to be in the right spot on the powerband to fly nicely. Pre pipe days it was difficult with all the variables in the turns but afterwards it was much more comfortable. So I would get the pipes you choose which are a low/mid range pipe. It will make the power much easier to handle on the track.

Before getting too deep into the motor, I would get your suspension dialed in. This is where I switched to a 250R. I either had to spend the money on the Banshee to make it wider and better suspended, or buy a used R and fix that up. Luck would have it, a nice R landed on my lap which made the choice easier. While I have no seat time on a suspended Banshee, here are my choices for suspension type mods:

Get +2 +1 A-arms. Brand is your choice. I would prefer the Roll Design or see if Walsh has a set. (Who you can talk to at the races!)

For shocks, go with something with sag. I have heard that the rear shock for the Banshee is pretty good, so buy a set of fronts (they are not rebuildable) and have the rear re-vavled by the same company.

Also get an extended axle. I have on my R an older Durable (real old) which has lasted so far, but I would prefer the RPM alxe. This will make the quad close to 50 inches all the way around.

Overall, I would wait for serious internal motor mods. I found the piped Banshee to have plenty of grunt to race. What I found lacking is the suspension. A track like Southwick will beat the stock fronts in about 2 laps. The geometery of a stock Banshee makes it very tippy in the corners and wanting to push. But the Banshees that race (wider and suspended) really fly around the track. Also, take the outside lanes at Southwick on the Banshee. Not only is it a blast in the sand sliding your rear end out but a lot faster and smoother!

This past race season, I destroyed the tranny in my R (lost drain plug during race). For the next couple of races at Southwick I switched back to the Banshee. (Piped and still stock suspended) While I had a much difficult time keeping up with the riders in the expert class, it was still fun to fly in the sand and pull people in on the washboard straight! Just hammer the throttle, lean back and grab all the gears you can! Good luck this year and hope to see you at the first race. I will be #19 in the Expert Open class this year. Black plastic, blue One Industries graphics, blue framed R. Oh, if I had to choose between a 400ex and the Banshee to race, it would be the Banshee!

I just re-read your post. In the dead heat of summer, I have not had a problem with overheating the Banshee. Sometimes a little coolant would come out on the hottest days, but never anything to worry about. So hold off on the radiator and get the suspension!