How do these AMP LINKS actually work??? It looks like they have two chain rollers. It's supposed to give you more traction...but how??

Also does anyone know where you can buy replacement chain rollers for an AMP LINK?? Do they have a manufactures website??

thanks

 

I was reading on someones website about how the amp links are a waste of money. The guy said it changes your rear suspension when your on the gas, but the change isnt neccisarily good. He also said that when he gets to high gears, the rollers make a loud annoying squealing sound.

 

Hello,

I have read alot of misinformation regarding the AMP Link. One post even stated that it makes the suspension harder when landing from jumps??

I would like to explain here what the AMP Link does and why it works, and also explain why some riders have had trouble with the roller assemblies that the chain rides on.

I work for AMP Research and am in charge of developing the new AMP link that will soon be available for the 400EX and Yamaha Raptor!

This product was invented for ATV applications around 1990 and received great reviews fom the press. This is what the AMP Link does:

How it works and what it does–
The AMP-LINK eliminates the Torque influence of the motor on the rear suspension of your ATV. What do we mean by torque influence? Try this: Ride your ATV against a stationary object, like a tree or wall, and slowly let out the clutch in first gear while applying a small amount of throttle. Your rear suspension will rise and lock out. Try loading the rear suspension by jumping on it. The rear shock will be locked solid and have no movement. Now try the same test with the AMP Link installed. The suspension will be free under acceleration is still able to absorb bumps, without any negative influence from the motor. The advantages of this are:

1) More power to the ground instead of uncontrollable wheelspin
2) Greater Tire Life
3) Greatly improved acceleration on straights
4) Improved handling out of turns and braking bumps

Regarding blown roller assemblies:

The main reason why riders have had problems with the roller assemblies breaking is because THEY ARE NOT ADJUSTING THE CHAIN ACCORDING TO OUR INSTRUCTIONS.

Here is how we recommend you adjust the chain!

Without the AMP Link, the chain on your ATV will tighten during suspension compression. However, with the AMP Link installed, the chain will slightly loosen during suspension compression. Hence, it is imperative that you adjust your chain slack as per the instructions below:

Put the ATV on a stand to ensure that the rear wheels are off the ground and the rear suspension is at its maximum extended length.
Move the rear axle rearwards according to the Owners Manual until there is just ¼ inch of vertical slack on the top portion of the chain between the Amp Link and Rear Sprocket. Tighten the rear axle. Drop the ATV off the stand and you will have the proper amount of chain slack (usually about 1”).

I hope this helped! ALso, if anyone has an AMP Link and needs parts or service, please don't hesitate to contact me and I will be of any help I can.

Cheers,

Harry Leitner
harry@amp-research.com

 

When will the Raptor AMP Link be ready to ship?

 

The Raptor Link will be available by mid-June. check out www.amp-research.com for updates!

Thanx

 

ampedout, Thanks for the info. I have never heard a good explaination of how an Amp link worked. This sounds like something that will help my raptor on rough trails & whooped out dune trails. I look forward to the release of the Raptor Amp link.

 

I don't know about this Ampout, I rely on the rear suspension stiffening under heavy accelleration when coming off of big jumps. It makes the landing softer up front and keeps me from bottoming out. Could this be why I haven't seen it used much among the pros? I could see the benefit for dune or recreation but I don't know about MX.

 

ampedout
I don't recall the exact year but I believe it was 1983 or 84, I had a amp link on my race bike, ( it definitely wasn't in 1990 ) it may have been pre production, it was on the three wheeling magazine white 250r ATC ( I raced for the magazine at that time ) I raced it in the off road championship's that year. I liked the way the suspension felt going through whoops under hard acceleration. The only thing that I have a problem with is on the dyno there is a 3 to 5 hp loss to the rear wheels. This obviously is from the extra chain and roller drag. If you are re-designing it without rollers maybe you can solve this problem. Good luck on the new design

 

Well I've had one on my shee for nearly 6 years and have had no real problems with it. I replaced the bearings when we tore the quad down to the frame for powdercoating. Other than that i've had no problems. The extra chain noise was a bit to get used to, but I don't even notice it now. I notice how it works more at the dunes than any place else. Used to wheelie like crazy now I can just carry the wheels a bit, and launch it. I need to replace the rollers they are getting a bit grooved out now. This is the only bad thing so far, thing is the 2 rollers are $25-30 a piece. So for the cost I may just go back to nylon rollers for a while.

 

Thank you for the replys, guys.

Regarding Landing from Big jumps:

You are correct by thinking that the AMP Link takes the force out of the suspension; hence, there is much less stiffening of the suspension when landing from jumps. It is important that MX Racers and heavier riders change their rear spring for a stiffer rate and run less preload on the suspension. I have incorporated this in our new instruction sheet. The problem is this: Most riders are not familiar with the proper rear "race sag" or suspension settings. Riders over 180 lbs or riders who race MX need to go 2-3 rates up on the rear spring. This allows them to run less preload (2-8mm) on the rear shock. The benefits are apparent when exiting rough turns and entering braking bumps.

Here is an excerpt from our new instruction sheet.

STIFFER REAR SHOCK SPRING

The AMP Link eliminates the chain torque effect on the rear suspension. Because of this, it will allow you to run a stiffer rear shock spring with less spring preload. THIS GREATLY IMPROVES HANDLING AND WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT. If you weigh over 180 lbs or are an advanced MX rider, it is important that you run the stiffer spring and set your sag at 2 1/2". DO NOT PRELOAD YOUR STOCK SPRING MORE THAN ½ INCH TO ACHIEVE PROPER SAG! It will result in the rear end kicking under acceleration and largely diminishing the benefits of the AMP Link.
A stiffer rear spring is available thru AMP Research or thru your dealer!

Also, here is the correct way to adjust the chain on any AMP Link:

Adjusting the Chain Tension
DO NOT ADJUST YOUR CHAIN ACCORDING TO THE OWNERS MANUAL WITH THE AMP LINK INSTALLED! YOU MUST ADJUST THE CHAIN ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW!

Without the AMP Link, the chain on your quad will tighten during suspension compression. However, with the AMP Link installed, the chain will slightly loosen during suspension compression. Hence, it is imperative that you adjust your chain slack as per the instructions below:

Put the ATV on a stand to ensure that the rear wheels are off the ground and the rear suspension is at its maximum extended length.
Move the rear axle rearwards according to the Owners Manual until there is just ¼ inch of vertical slack on the top portion of the chain between the Amp Link and Rear Sprocket. Tighten the rear axle. Drop the ATV off the stand and you will have the proper amount of chain slack (usually about 1”).

Also, I race motocross and run a custom AMP Link on my 2002' CRF 450. You can get a foreshadowing of the new AMP Link at

http://photos.yahoo.com/hleitner