Just my opinion, but I think he trimmed the flaps because of the Dyno Jet kit he's using. Thier directions are to trim the flaps rather then remove the whole snorkle.

Again, my opinion is to save your money and refrain from buying the DJ kit, and save that money twoard a Proflow kit or airbox. Many people here like the DJ kit because it takes alot of the jetting guess work out of the tuning process, but there are also alot of people on here that can get you real close for the jetting you need as well.

Just my opinion.

 

I cut the flap out and retained the snorkel because the Dynojet instructions say so .. !? I called them and the tech said not to do anything else to the airbox - something about turbulence and poor running in the mid rpms. Check the thread "Yoshi competition FS TOC Pipe, K&N, and Proflow" there is a bunch of info - seems Dynojet is right.

I did my upgrades in stages - first pipe, then filter, then re-jet. To be honest, the incremental gains were very subtle but looking back, the final product is noticeable - I'm quite sure I'd feel a noticable diff if I'd jump on a bone stock raptor. A $500 difference ?? local desert riding - NO, not really worth it, the money would be better spent on widening and suspension! But sand duning and wash running is a different story - the mods are more useful there and I'd say it's worth it. I think it really depends on how you want to ride it. I ride about 50:50 between desert and dunes so overall, I think it was money well spent - EXCEPT FOR FMF.

For some really noticable, economical performance mods look into ITP steel 2" offset front wheels ($100), Denton steering stabilizer ($150), and Dura-blue rear wheel spacers ($100). Make a huge handleing improvement primarily in the stability department.

Hope this helps, Eric

 

I gotta agree with Swytak on the DJ kit. They get ya for about $65 for a couple little pieces. Granted, you get new needles of a different shape but you could likely just change the main jet, pilot jet, mixture screw and clip pos to achieve the same results for about $10 and some good tuning tips from this board. Not being a tweaker - I went with the easy, yet more costly answer !?

 

fisher1648, I understand what you are saying about "following DJ instructions" for trimming the snorkel flap. Best to do what they say. From what I read on the post you told me about, my understanding is that they where having problems when they removed the entire air box lid. This was causing too much turbulence, and the engine was stumbling in the mid rpm's. Removing the snorkel from the lid, should achieve the same effect as trimming the flap from the snorkel, but it is easier to do, as you just unscrew the clamp, and slide it off. This should give the same airflow, if not a little more than trimming the flap from the snorkel, but I don't see how it could be so much different that it would cause the kind of turbulence as removing the entire lid. The air box lid still has runners built into it and should direct airflow nicely, while letting it breath a little better. Also, DJ said not to remove the lid and run their specified jetting, as I'm sure that the jets that they recommend are not rich enough for removing the entire lid. That is just what I got out of reading the post, but maybe I misunderstood.

I have never rejetted a carb, so I think I will remove the snorkel, install a twin Air air filter, add the slip on pipe, and have my dealer rejet it for me, once all the new parts are installed. I know I could probably do it with advice from others on here, but I just think it will be easier to have the mechanics do it, as I am not following a kit with the set up that I am thinking about.

As far as the Pro Flow, aren't they just a better way of attaching the filter? Twin Air makes something similar. I haven't seen anything that says that the Pro Flow actually flows better than another "High Flow" after marker filter. I don't want to run with out a lid, and don't the aftermarket air box's run with out lids?

Thanks for all the input guy's. It is really a big help!

 

I agree that removing the snorkel and leaving the air box lid would likely be fine - go for it !

As far as re-jetting it, I'm stuck doing most of that kinda stuff myself. Unfortunately my local shop guys are not very trustworthy. I was pretty intimidated at first but once I dove in it was easy. I can do it in about 45 minutes - the longest part is pulling the front plastic and tank. If you decide to do it, there is a step-by-step instruction post (complete with photos) on this forum somewhere.

Lastly, I do not know the diff between the air cleaners other than I chose the pro-design because of the way the filter clamped to the backplate very nicely. The stock set-up seems pretty marginal. I dont know if the aftermarket boxes have lids or not ??

Best of luck -

 

I don't believe the aftermarket air boxes have lids. Outerwears does make water resistant covers for them though (they have them for the stock air box too), Thats what I'll get with the Sparks box.

 

Area51- The t-4 is a good choice, i like the way it mounts. I have run the t-4 and gyrt slip-on. The t-4 made 1 more hp that the gyrt on my quad, but the gyrt had a better hp and tq curve across the rpm range. The gyrt peak at 6500 rpm on my machine, the T-4 500 rpm's sooner. The T-4 started falling off the power fast after 7000 rpm. The gyrt was much better. Just food for thought.

 

Thanks for all the info guy's. There are just way to many choices when it comes to slip on's. I hate this; I will never know if I got the right one! All I really have to go on is the Dirt Wheels Exhaust Shootout, and I know that you can't believe everything that they say. But at least they printed out dyno graphs, so I can look at the overall power curve, and they listed the air box mod's and jetting. The T-4 made 42.9 Hp which is no where near the most, but it made it with no air box mod?s, and with a head and mid pipe that are the same diameter as the stock Raptor, which leads me to believe that I have the best chance of duplicating those numbers with the T-4 slip on, and my stock head and mid pipe. Anyone know anything about the White Brother E-series slip on? It had a good power curve, but its mid pipe is bigger than the stock Raptors, so I won't see the same performance when using the stock Raptor mid pipe with it. Oh well, I guess any decent name brand slip on will be better than the stock pipe. I just want it to make a pretty noticeable difference for the money that I will spend, and the extra noise that I will have to live with. Hopefully it will keep me ahead of all the piped and jetted Z400's that's the main goal.

 

I'll be shopping for a new slip-on soon as well - after I drop kick this P.O.S FMF....!

My criteria will be: (not in any specific order)

1) Overall general performance (considering mild mods - no crazy sh$t).

2) Fitment- secure mounting to frame and good seal at stock head-pipe - not "oh, it'll stop blowing by when it gets hot - BS).

3) Quality of materials and engineering - gimmie good shi$t, I paid for it !

4) Customer service - I'm tired of taking to punks that dont ride !

Who's got a winner ? - Yoshimura, GYTR, or Pro circuit seem likely ?

Any sucess stories out there ??

 

Fisher, I'm sure there's others that will meet your requirements, But allow me to sing the praises of the Sparks X6.

As far as performance my a$$ dyno said WOW! It made power everywhere.
I have the complete system with stainless head pipe & spark arrestor but with the quality of the Sparks pipes (& everything else they make) I have no doubt that the fit will be first rate. They build there pipes on site & don't source them from somewhere else. It's a good looking part & mounts solid. You can see what it looks like on MY Raptor on the Sparks Racing Web Site, Go to the Raptor page, click exhaust & scroll to the bottom of the page & click the pic of my Raptor at Sahara for a full size pic. You can see a close shot of the can & it's mounts.

All the guys I talked to at Sparks really know their stuff, I called a lot of places before I layed out that kind of $$$ & was very impressed with their knowledge & especially their patience with the endless questions I came up with. They amswered every email & returned every phone call.

I ordered my pipe a few weeks after the Dirtwheels pipe shootout came out, They didn't have a pipe in stock but said they would build me one that day. I ordered it on a Friday & the big brown truck delivered it the next Thursday. I had my pipe on while many others had theirs on back order. They also told me if I didn't like it I could send it back.

I'm sure that Trinity has the same customer service & other pipes make good power but I was impressed with Curtis Sparks from start to finish & have no regrets sending them my hard earned cash.

Sorry I went on for so long but I really like this pipe !!