Lid or not to Lid
#11
Has anybody tried this airbox mod form EHS? Is it any good? I would be running a K&N with a yoshi slip on.
EHS airbox
EHS airbox
#12
I run with no lid, and in combination with the pro design flange and foam filter, jetting, and CT Exhaust, the difference is night and day.
Unless you ride in mud/water, lose the lid..... Even splashing isn't to bad as the oiled filter repels the water for the occasional light splash. If you are submarining it, you have the wrong machine anyway.
RM
Unless you ride in mud/water, lose the lid..... Even splashing isn't to bad as the oiled filter repels the water for the occasional light splash. If you are submarining it, you have the wrong machine anyway.
RM
#14
I have noticed on my prevoius stock cam and compression Raptor, turbulence was evident with the lid removed at lower rpms......I wound up having to lean the needles for proper operation. Now, with more cam and compression, this is not the case, I have richened the needles back up.....apparantly the higher compression helps too smooth out the turbulence issue. Thumbs up!
#16
I was thinking about taking the lid off. With a 01 Raptor that is Sparks piped, timing advance, and K&N air filter at about 500 ft elevation, where would you start with your jetting? The Sparks web pages suggested 27.5 pilot jets, DJ148/DJ150 main jets, and 2 1/2 turns out on mixture screw. What about Dynojet needle location? I thought most people left the stock pilot jets in and used like a 175/180 mains. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
#17
FastRaptorMan, I have about the same question!
I am at less than 1000' and have the mods you see in my sig...
...and here is my current set up: DJ150/155 - DJ needles at 5th clip position down from top - Air/Fuel mixture screws at 3 turns out.
My question is, is this enough without the lid? The needles are 1 clip richer than what DJ recommends before the cam and piston. My plug looks a little leaner than I "usually" run it in the past. But not white.
What is everyone else running without the lid and with the Dyno kit????
Gary, are you using the Dyno Kit? If so, where do you stand right now?
RR, how about you - where do you stand?
Anyone???
"TOID"
I am at less than 1000' and have the mods you see in my sig...
...and here is my current set up: DJ150/155 - DJ needles at 5th clip position down from top - Air/Fuel mixture screws at 3 turns out.
My question is, is this enough without the lid? The needles are 1 clip richer than what DJ recommends before the cam and piston. My plug looks a little leaner than I "usually" run it in the past. But not white.
What is everyone else running without the lid and with the Dyno kit????
Gary, are you using the Dyno Kit? If so, where do you stand right now?
RR, how about you - where do you stand?
Anyone???
"TOID"
#18
Toid,
Foam or K&N on your new pro design?
Also, you have a piston and cam, so your mods are different. I run the dyno jets 148/150 clip 4th groove and stock pilots 3 and 3 1/4 turns out. 0-1500' rideing mostly.
Foam or K&N on your new pro design?
Also, you have a piston and cam, so your mods are different. I run the dyno jets 148/150 clip 4th groove and stock pilots 3 and 3 1/4 turns out. 0-1500' rideing mostly.
#19
TOID... Here's what's been working for me at 2000ft 146/148 mains, clip 4th from the top screws 3 turns out. This is where it get's a little gray I have modified (drilled) pilots so I don't know exactly what size they are but they are larger than stock. No lid with K&N and outerware running race gas. Hope this helps!!!
#20
Unless you live in the desert I would say keep the lid. But, cut a huge hole in the lid and then cover the hole with a water proof outerwears fabric and remove the snorkel. Rejet(preferably with a dynojet kit stage two). Easily will boost horsepower three or four ponies.


