Good idea for the other stuff but i woul like to comment on the block off kit for the oil ionjection. I have that kit and i run out of gas way quicker then my friend has a blaster who doesnt haver the kit and i ran out of gas even before he hit reserve. So i guess it is up to you

 

does anyone even notice the difference in the block off? i mean doesnt it just take off weight? and doesnt shorten the life of your engine??

 

You will not notice a power difference by just removing the injection system unless the jetting was slightly off.

#1 you will have to re-jet after for the fuel/oil mixture you are running. because the richer or leaner the fuel/oil ratio is the richer or leaner it will make the fuel/air ratio.
#2 the amount of oil and kind you run will make a difference on how long it lasts.
An engine running a 32:1 ratio will last longer than an engine running 50:1 with the same oil.

For a regular 2 stroke oil I would mix it a 20:1 - 32:1 If using a synthetic 40:1 is usually perfect.

 

The carb Jetting on a stock Blaster is design to run gas not premix. You make alot more jetting work than you need to by blocking off the oil injection.

Try this, your bike will run real good and not kill your wallet.

Namura power piston kit $95.00 +5hp.
Boyesen reeds and reed spacer $45.00 Makes tork
Degree key $15.00 +2.5hp
Pro circuit or Bill's pipe/sil. $235.00 low to mid and some top
UNI air vents in lid $10.00
Air filter UNI or stock. Do not use K&N they are the worst thing on the market. I rebuild more bikes with K&N air filters than any others. If you do not have to clean them as often as foam where does the dirt go ? In the motor.

 

Namura power pistons only add up to 6HP on a banshee so a blaster would less then half of that not 5hp. plus your still left with an uneven squich band.
No need to spend any money on a degree key that is not needed when you can simply adjust the stator plate.
After doing a lot of research including letters from the manufactures and independent shops that dyno tested ...it was concluded that the Tommy B1 pipe produced the highest hp from mid range thru to top end over any other pipe, LRD was a close second and is adjustable for what ever range you need power at).
As for K&N filters being the worst thing on the market... I have been doing this (building and rebuilding engines) for many years and have yet to see an engine failure because of a BAD K&N filter. Sure if some dumb idiot does not properly clean it, or properly oil it then yes it is possible to create a problem but so is a foam filter. In fact I have a NEW KX250 in my shop now that needs a complete top and bottom end rebuild because of a bad foam air filter. The size of the dust particles that a K&N fill filter out are finer then most foam filters. The reason they say you do not have to clean it as often is only because the more dirty it gets the better if filters dirt out and even a dirty K&N will flow a lot more air then a foam air filter.
Just because you can see light threw a K&N does not mean it will allow dust into the intake and engine. I have run them on all my machines for 20 years and never had a problem.
You probably rebuild more bikes with K&N filters because the owners or some one does not know how to properly re-jet a carb after adding such a high flow air filter.

 

I got toomey pipe,a uni airfilter,no air lid and i moved the jet up to a 310...It seemed to give it so much more midrange like crazy!

 

Thanks for that info/reply Peltrax. I have mine at 280 thinking about changeing it. What made you decide to chage it to a 310? Also can anyone tell me what size reed spacer I should get?

 

same here with me 310 with no lid helps way more with the lid off
310 was toomeys recommended jetting

 

Thanks for the additional info. I can't seem to get any info from Pro-Circuit on there pipes as to what size main jet I should use.









GIVE ME SPEED OR GIVE ME DEATH!

 

Oil Block off plate, the reason to run this is if the Oil injection goes out on you, you will never know till its to late. Premix you know the oil is there.

Mods depends what type of riding.

Trails- Pipe FmF is good proven pipe. Vforce reeds, K@N air filter, mill the head or run thinner head gasket (Vitos). Stock carb should be good for this level. We did a vitos power piston in my friends bike and althought it is a nice product that did make a diff, It made the power band in my opioion a little to top friendly for trails It still rides traill just as good I just enjoyed it better with the stock piston.

Race MX- Tommey pipe might be better than fmf with its higher power band but I have not played with one yet, All above listed mods goes with this to. A good mid to top port job instead of the Power Piston and a carb look at the 250r stock carb Know a couple of people who have used this carb on ported bikes. Trust me if you have the money do the port instead of the power Piston my friend is wanting to pull his out and get ported after racing a couple of ported bikes.

My fav Dunes- DRAG RACING, Look into the Hetrick big bore pipes LRD or custom out of the frame drag pipes. 240 or bigger with topend port work, 250r Carb shaved head Vforce reeds advance timming extend the swingarm, and get the bike drunk. I seen a 20 over blaster with a good port job on alky extened swingarm 8 paddle hauler and a rider that weighed like 80 pounds beat a lot of 400ex at the Dunes. They was also one there one time black and white drag pipe 6 inch swingarm 240 maybe 265 on alky that bike looked good and was one of the fastest blaster no the fastest blaster I ever saw.

Just remeber with a Blaster If you want to be fast in a straight line you will give up some trail and mx riding and if you want trails and mx you will not be as fast in a straight line as you could be, True with any bike but esp. on the blaster thanks to limited motor size.