how does N20 work? (nos)
#21
Ward
1-2. There are two types of Nitrous systems, "dry" and "wet". Wet systems mix metered amounts of nitrous and gas together and spray them into the engine. Dry systems spray only nitrous and require large jets, EFI computer, etc to add the needed fuel. Each type has both plate and fogger systems. A fogger system uses a nozzle for each cylinder to mix the N2O/fuel and sprays it into the intake runner. A plate system mixes N2O/fuel right after the carb or throttle body and sprays the mixture into the intake and each cylinder pulls the mix. A nozzle system is much more accurate since each cylinder gets the exact same amount of mix, but for most automotive purposes, plates work just fine. In the atv/motorcyle world where each cylinder has its own carb (except for your messed up single cylinder dual carb Raptors[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]) the fogger is easier to install and works better. A plate system would require all of the airflow throught the same plate.
3. The added amount of fuel when spraying nitrous builds tremendous cylinder pressure, compareable to running a huge supercharger. In fact, nitrous and a supercharger work on the same principle, more air, more fuel. I have heard the comment that "nitrous is compression in a bottle". This is very true. You also have a higher chance of detonation when spraying so lower compression is helpful. A well built nitrous engine is still capable of having compression ratio's beyond 13:1 (my friends cars for example) if everything is right. If not tuned properly, it can be a hand grenade.
4. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I couldn't do that to you with a good conscious. The rear tires have no tread (slicks), as you said bad fuel mileage, it won't pass emissions, COP MAGNET, tranny needs new transbrake, engine needs freshened up, 4.56 gears suck on highway.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Man, that S-10 is sounding good.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] If you are ever in southeast Missouri, come by and we'll take it for a cruise around town. The ladies love to look (I won't tell your wife).
1-2. There are two types of Nitrous systems, "dry" and "wet". Wet systems mix metered amounts of nitrous and gas together and spray them into the engine. Dry systems spray only nitrous and require large jets, EFI computer, etc to add the needed fuel. Each type has both plate and fogger systems. A fogger system uses a nozzle for each cylinder to mix the N2O/fuel and sprays it into the intake runner. A plate system mixes N2O/fuel right after the carb or throttle body and sprays the mixture into the intake and each cylinder pulls the mix. A nozzle system is much more accurate since each cylinder gets the exact same amount of mix, but for most automotive purposes, plates work just fine. In the atv/motorcyle world where each cylinder has its own carb (except for your messed up single cylinder dual carb Raptors[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]) the fogger is easier to install and works better. A plate system would require all of the airflow throught the same plate.
3. The added amount of fuel when spraying nitrous builds tremendous cylinder pressure, compareable to running a huge supercharger. In fact, nitrous and a supercharger work on the same principle, more air, more fuel. I have heard the comment that "nitrous is compression in a bottle". This is very true. You also have a higher chance of detonation when spraying so lower compression is helpful. A well built nitrous engine is still capable of having compression ratio's beyond 13:1 (my friends cars for example) if everything is right. If not tuned properly, it can be a hand grenade.
4. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] I couldn't do that to you with a good conscious. The rear tires have no tread (slicks), as you said bad fuel mileage, it won't pass emissions, COP MAGNET, tranny needs new transbrake, engine needs freshened up, 4.56 gears suck on highway.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Man, that S-10 is sounding good.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] If you are ever in southeast Missouri, come by and we'll take it for a cruise around town. The ladies love to look (I won't tell your wife).
#24
I have been tuning Holley carbs since I was 13 or 14 (I'm 21 now), and Dominators since I was 18. I have hundreds of jets laying around. I feel the Dominator is the easiest to tune due to the four corner idle system and the fact that it is pretty much all or none so you just tune for WOT. I hate tuning the vacumn carbs. You have to find the perfect spring, jets for the rear, etc. Double pumper and dominator is just simple jet changes. The hardest part is tuning the accelerator pump, especially on the rear of a split ratio double pumper. Finding the right cam and nozzle size can take many hours if you want to be dead on. The C&S milling and other mods makes for awesome power. A good C&S double pumper (built on the 750cfm carb) can produce flows of 1000+.
Ward, would you consider just trading bodies?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I have been thinking of how much faster I could be if I had my engine in a little truck like that instead of a '68 ford longbed. Your engine would fit in the 68 without problems if you use "Lincoln" engine mounts (This is a joke among my friends. "Lincoln Electric welder"[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]). Ladder bar, coil over, and slicks don't handle well on the highway though. Slicks have NO sidewall strength.
Ward, would you consider just trading bodies?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] I have been thinking of how much faster I could be if I had my engine in a little truck like that instead of a '68 ford longbed. Your engine would fit in the 68 without problems if you use "Lincoln" engine mounts (This is a joke among my friends. "Lincoln Electric welder"[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]). Ladder bar, coil over, and slicks don't handle well on the highway though. Slicks have NO sidewall strength.
#26
I have seen a lot of small blocks in the older (ugly) s10's. I have never seen one in the newer body and always wondered why someone didn't do it. A mild 350 in an S-10 is one he!! of a ride. A friend had a solid roller, alum headed, 427 small block stoker in an 87 S-10 that would roll the tires up in smoke from a 55 mph punch. I have seen almost every combination of small block chevy engine from mild to wild, cheap to $9000+. If you want to know what works for a healthy street engine, just ask. Around me, SBC parts are cheap. I have 3 friends that each have about 30 sets of heads that they can't even give away. 350 blocks are sold for scrap.
#27
I have a 4banger in it now. You can hardley find the motor mount swap from a 4 cly to the v8. This might be one of the reasons you don't see many v8s in the new bodies. My Grandpa had a 88 model with a 400bb in it. He carried around a couple big "tractor" weights in the back for traction. He used the excuse I need it to pull my trailor with. I always thought that was funny.
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