Attention DYNA FS ignition users!!
#1
Maybe everyone already knows this except me, but here is some news you need to know if you are using a Dyna box with a tether kill switch.
I have now fried two Dyna boxes and my battery and starter relay. I just got off the phone with the Dyna engineers this evening. The problem is the kill switch. Do NOT attach the kill switch to the positive lead to the coil!! They said this is absolutely wrong. The Dyna box uses different switching technology than the stocker, making it more susceptible to the huge blast of energy that gets grounded to the frame when you pull the kill switch. You need to hook one lead from the kill to a ground, and the other lead to the PURPLE (or purple/white) wire coming from the Dyna box. They said they were gong to revise the instuctions to make this more clear.
I rode and raced my raptor all last year with the stock CDI with the kill attatched to the orange (+) wire at the coil. That is how everyone that I have talked to with a raptor has done it. But your Dyna CDI will not last very long if you try this. Luckily the customer service guys at Dyna were excellent and replaced mine at no charge.
Thanks Turbo33 for the tip!!
RR1
I have now fried two Dyna boxes and my battery and starter relay. I just got off the phone with the Dyna engineers this evening. The problem is the kill switch. Do NOT attach the kill switch to the positive lead to the coil!! They said this is absolutely wrong. The Dyna box uses different switching technology than the stocker, making it more susceptible to the huge blast of energy that gets grounded to the frame when you pull the kill switch. You need to hook one lead from the kill to a ground, and the other lead to the PURPLE (or purple/white) wire coming from the Dyna box. They said they were gong to revise the instuctions to make this more clear.
I rode and raced my raptor all last year with the stock CDI with the kill attatched to the orange (+) wire at the coil. That is how everyone that I have talked to with a raptor has done it. But your Dyna CDI will not last very long if you try this. Luckily the customer service guys at Dyna were excellent and replaced mine at no charge.
Thanks Turbo33 for the tip!!
RR1
#7
So which wire should we really be hooked to on the stock CDI??? does anyone know?
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#8
1) Yes it is worth the money. Especially if you have access to a dyno shop that is familiar with programming custom advance curves. I haven't messed with custom curves yet. I have just tried the 4 preset curves. My favorites are curves 3 and 4, the most advance. It has much better throttle response, and midrange feels alot stronger. By increasing the timing, you ignite the fuel/air charge a little sooner, thereby increasing cylinder pressure and slamming the piston down harder (more HP). Too much advance, though, and you lose HP and run the risk of detonation.
2) I have used the kill switch with the stock CDI, attached to the positive input to the coil (orange wire) for over a year with no problems. Most everyone else seems to do it this way also, without any problems. I think that it is ok. It is just not good to do with the Dyna CDI because they use a different switching mechanism in the circuits. At least that is what the engineers at Dynatek told me.
RR1
2) I have used the kill switch with the stock CDI, attached to the positive input to the coil (orange wire) for over a year with no problems. Most everyone else seems to do it this way also, without any problems. I think that it is ok. It is just not good to do with the Dyna CDI because they use a different switching mechanism in the circuits. At least that is what the engineers at Dynatek told me.
RR1
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Sep 26, 2015 11:26 AM
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