Airraptor,
Where is the shop that you quoted those prices from? Thanks for all your information.

To all that have replied, thanks for your information also.

ba01raptoraz

 

I think I am wrong....
A lighter rod would help the motor rev quicker which would make it faster. It would show more hp on a dyno.

what are the material differences between stock and a Carillo? where are the rods failing, stock and Corillo??

a heavier rod would copmound the problem of an unballanced crank.

 

It would be intertesting to see if the big shops (and smaller shops) balance the cranks to account for the carrilo rods,my guess it is not a standard option. Harry @ Trinity,can you shine some light ??? Bob @ Craycraft? Mark @ Robertsons ?? Lyle @ Sparks ?? Anyone doing this and what are the costs ??

 

TriRap, I don't know if anybody has welded a Raptor crank. I haven't heard of anybody doing it.

air, thanks for the complements.

I can't afford to do a Carrillo rod right now....not with the tranny, cam chain, and one way alll at the same time. I WILL put something stronger than just a stock rod in there though....I just am not sure what yet.

 

A lighter reciprocating assembly will rev quicker due too less weight......but will make no more power. Since the engine is making rpm's faster, it's quicker. The trade off is stalling....the lighter assembly does'nt have as much resistance too stopping as the heavier assembly.

 

Ahhh but less weight makes it easier for the engine to work...thus creating more power.....right???

Same idea for single rate springs instead of dual rates.

 

Too a very small or even negligible degree.....friction robs the heavier assembly. On the other hand, on a full tilt lightened assembly, one could get dyno proof.

 

I may be the only person sitting here thinking about this, but dosent a lighter rotaing mass make your engine more likely to blow up while revving down? Its not the revving up that kills an engine, its the coming back down. The lighter your flywheel and internals, the more violent the coming down is. Get my drift? Kinda like top fuel dragsters.

 

I hate to say I have not had any problems with my 686 because you are normally asking for trouble but here goes. I welded my crank with a stock with the stock rod. It has been to gether since april of 02 with no troubles. (knock on wood) Like on a shee the rods break when the press together crank twist from shock on take offs. I feel the Raptor is no different. Keep the crank staight and you will have no problems. It was the same when drags racing street bikes.

 

Trirap I think it's more of a problem with shee's being they are a two cyl.
I wonder if the problem with some of these failures might have something to do with harmonics or at least a factor.I would strongly consider having the crank assembly dynamic balanced.