Magura Clutch
#11
#13
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alright i got the old thing off, and got it rewired, no prob.....then i routed the cable, and i tried to make the slave cylinder mount, but the piston thing is not being pulled back out, it will go in, then the spring wont pull it back out......it really pisses me off when stuff doesnt work.....cause its not workin......does it come with hydraulixc fluid? does it need to be filled? does it have to be mounted on the bars to work? (cause im gettin new bars on and just took my old ones off today.....) please give me some help, since it has ZERO instructions.... this has to work by sunday! thanks alot!
#14
#15
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yeah it was brand new.... i did have the slave cylinder mounted, and i thought "ill see if it works" and pulled the lever, it pulled like a centimeter, and i relized i had it wrong, so i fixed it cause it came like al the way in and when it pull all the way out , it will pull in, then wont pull out......ur supposed to remove the spring? the directions with pics i found on the internet had the spring, but my kit came wit no instructions.....o well.......hey thanks alot for taking time to do this, i really appreciate it!!
#16
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ok here we go..here is what my directions said...........you can definetly tell that english is NOT their first language..since the errors were on there and not from my OCR software.............
also here is a link to their website where there are some PDF directions (though they are not raptor specific)
http://www.magura.de/magura_unterneh...et/default.htm
RAPTOR
NOTE: The 0120492-10 Raptor Hydraulic Clutch system is not for Units equipped with neutral safety start
or parking brake.
The HYMEC clutch comes filled and ready to install.
Remove machanical clutch cable and lever.
Rout slave cylinder and tubing ITom handle bar toward engine clutch arm. Be creful not to bend 2-mm piston slave rod in the process. KEEP TUBING A WAY FROM HOT SURFACE SUCH AS EXHOUST ETC. Us zipp ties where needed. Ifpossible follow the existing mechanical cable routing.
- SALVE CYLINDER - ADJUSTER INST ALLA TION:
.Pull the piston rod all the way out of slave cylinder.
.Place nose of hydraulic clutch slave cylinder into adjuster at fixed hex' side with 2-mm piston rod running along sloted channel. Slip hex nut on to adjuster over nipple (mushroom head) of slave piston rod.
.Place adjuster and slave cylinder into existing cable housing bracket. With fixed hex part and hex nut on each side.
.Hook the nipple end into clutch arm clevis.
CHECK FREE PLA Y
- -- - -Free play is the gap created when pulling the slave cylinder away from cable stop-(at engine)
It is important to have a small amount of free play (about 2 to 4 mm); otherwise the risk exists of slipping the clutch that will wear the plates prematurly. The free play should be checked engine cold and hot.
...
If there is too much free play a spacer washer can be place on slave cylinder nose at cable housing bracket.
OTHER INST ALLA TION TIPS
.If clutch is equipped with an external coil return spring, it must be removed or disconnected. Otherwise the clutch lever travel is too great and it will not allow proper disengagement or self adjust.
.Our clutch slave cylinder rod will pull (travel) 9.5 mm when equipped with 9.5 mm piston diameter master cylinder and 12 mm when equipped with 10.5 mm piston master cylinder. The master cylinder piston diameter is stamped on the round intake part on the underneath side. (Raptor HYMEC'S should use 1O.5-mm piston master cylinder.)
.If there is less travel, the most likely couse is air in the system. See how to bleed system in #0720568 bleed kit.
also here is a link to their website where there are some PDF directions (though they are not raptor specific)
http://www.magura.de/magura_unterneh...et/default.htm
RAPTOR
NOTE: The 0120492-10 Raptor Hydraulic Clutch system is not for Units equipped with neutral safety start
or parking brake.
The HYMEC clutch comes filled and ready to install.
Remove machanical clutch cable and lever.
Rout slave cylinder and tubing ITom handle bar toward engine clutch arm. Be creful not to bend 2-mm piston slave rod in the process. KEEP TUBING A WAY FROM HOT SURFACE SUCH AS EXHOUST ETC. Us zipp ties where needed. Ifpossible follow the existing mechanical cable routing.
- SALVE CYLINDER - ADJUSTER INST ALLA TION:
.Pull the piston rod all the way out of slave cylinder.
.Place nose of hydraulic clutch slave cylinder into adjuster at fixed hex' side with 2-mm piston rod running along sloted channel. Slip hex nut on to adjuster over nipple (mushroom head) of slave piston rod.
.Place adjuster and slave cylinder into existing cable housing bracket. With fixed hex part and hex nut on each side.
.Hook the nipple end into clutch arm clevis.
CHECK FREE PLA Y
- -- - -Free play is the gap created when pulling the slave cylinder away from cable stop-(at engine)
It is important to have a small amount of free play (about 2 to 4 mm); otherwise the risk exists of slipping the clutch that will wear the plates prematurly. The free play should be checked engine cold and hot.
...
If there is too much free play a spacer washer can be place on slave cylinder nose at cable housing bracket.
OTHER INST ALLA TION TIPS
.If clutch is equipped with an external coil return spring, it must be removed or disconnected. Otherwise the clutch lever travel is too great and it will not allow proper disengagement or self adjust.
.Our clutch slave cylinder rod will pull (travel) 9.5 mm when equipped with 9.5 mm piston diameter master cylinder and 12 mm when equipped with 10.5 mm piston master cylinder. The master cylinder piston diameter is stamped on the round intake part on the underneath side. (Raptor HYMEC'S should use 1O.5-mm piston master cylinder.)
.If there is less travel, the most likely couse is air in the system. See how to bleed system in #0720568 bleed kit.
#17
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well i know i installed it correctly now, but it doesnt work....great! well ill have to check it out tom, because i dont know what could have gone wrong......and now that i have disconnected everything else its gonnabe hard to reinstall the stocker if i have to.....WOW, i hate it when stuff doesnt work!!!!
#18
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cHappyRider - did you ever get your clutch working? I recently purchased one and I am having similiar difficulties. I believe it is installed correctly - I've tried it with and without the spring. I had to adjust the position of the clutch lever arm as described in the article on Project Raptor. Cannot get it to disengage.
#19
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Turns out the clutch never ended up working!!! I put back on the cable one (minus the parking break cable) and finally got that to work for the weekend, on the day before i needed my bike.... So when I got back from the riding, I fixed the old cable clutch so it did not slip and then bought a clutch, perch and lever, just so I would not have that bulky stock clutch/parking break assembly thing, and then I left on my parking break block off.....so now I have a cable clutch, that works, and is less bulky and I dont have the pointless parking break.........in fact I would suggest doing this instead of the Magura....I sent back the Magura and got my money back and ended up spending only 30 bucks to get rid of my parking break and make it look cleaner on my bars (10 bucks each for the perch, lever and block off).....that would be my suggestion, i am gonna keep what I have now......and dont ask what was wrong with the Magura cause I honestly dont know.....maybe air in the lines, maybe just a dfective product.....or maybe the faulty magura slave cylinders ive been hearing about was the problem.....I dont know.....but Im definatly happy now with what I have!!!
#20