OPT

Good call. No I have not pulled the reverse wire. BUT, I've noticed since I bought this thing that there is no reverse limiting in place. So either someone else has pulled the wire or the switch is bad. Being the quad is so "new", I'd like to believe that someone pulled the wire and didn't realize that it caused other issue.
In other words, I can go as fast as I want in reverse.
So, should I pull the covers and see if the wire was pulled? If both black wires are in place, does that indicate that the reverse switch is bad?

Thanks!

For what it's worth, we rode it about 2 hrs tonite with the ETC bypassed. Not one hint of backfire! It ran great.

Thanks

 

It's just about the failure history of reverse limiter modules.. They all fail! I'd at least check and pull the black wire if still connected. It's one safety device that wasn't needed imo. Some machines would die when placed in reverse or could only be shifted in reverse only with the over ride button pushed and held while backing up,plus have had several machines start to limit in forward range because of faulty modules.

 

OTP

Well it appears that both black wires are connected on the fuse blocks. Looking at the service manual, for "loud backfire when deaccelerating" it has defective limiter switch as a culprit.

I found some used switches for about $30 that are supposed to be ok. Being 20yrs old, I need to be careful how much money I put into this thing. I'm with you in that I don't really want the reverse limiting.. I think it's a little silly. But if that is what is causing me to have to bypass the ETC to make it stop backfiring, I would consider the fix. Again, we rode it some more last night and it ran perfect with the ETC bypassed.

I understand the concept behind the ETC and why it is a good idea. Do other brands use something similar? I've ridden dirt bikes and atvs for years, polaris is the only one that i recall has this. With other machines, if the throttle stuck, the throttle stuck! It was just an inherent risk that you took. It personally has never happened to me, and obviously there is some regular maintenance that you can do to help prevent a lot of this.

Before I pull the trigger and get a new/used switch what else should I look for?

THanks again!

 

The manual is correct on the limiter for the most part on back firing issues on most models,but again the 350 and early 400 models would back fire also on the carb issue I mentioned. I'd just pull the limiter black wire and be done with it. Just tuck it out of the way. Hook the etc switch back up and see if you can rig something up to keep the carb from dumping a load of fuel in the engine as many did. After adjusting the throttle if it still back fires then I'd look at replacing the etc switch.Can't remember ever having to replace an etc switch at the shop,just limiter and carb problems caused most of the back firing.But being an electrical/mechanical item,it can be subject to failure.

 

I read through the entire thread here.
I hope I'm not being stupid here. But
Are you confused with the ETC because it seems to you that it's always engaged with the throttle on ?

Having the throttle push the button makes it run properly. If the button isn't depressed it won't rev up.

 

Probably did hear that the etc switch contacts were supposed to be open and that came from me.. Wasn't thinking,had several other things rattling around the brain. The etc contacts will touch at an idle if the throttle slack is adjusted correctly. Plus looking back at the manual,the 94 models started incorporating the etc updated switch that in case the cable was grabbed by a branch,or the carb slide stuck,the ignition was retarded/limited when the lever went back to the stop.Didn't have that on the 93 models as the manual says. Backfiring can come from too much slack on the throttle cable coming down off a high speed run as the contact points bounce. The reverse limiter module can cause back firing also along with the carb dumping a load of fuel in the cylinder from vibration on the 350 model. 94 models and up had the carb support,the 350 didn't. On our bulletin info on the 94 carb support kits the loading up and back firing plus bogging at high speed was supposed to stop or decrease with the rubber support blocks. Here's a video that may help him on the etc switch contacts. But if mine I'd still pull the limiter wire and support the carb as back firing may continue on the 350.Sorry for the gaffe on this one 5point9 but hard to remember everything especially on the old 93 model ...

 

Bringing this back for an update. I disconnected the limiter. I have ridden it about 4-5 hours and not even one hint of backfire! She runs great! I know I should leave well enough alone, but I really want to get a ritter cycle pipe and clutch kit to wake it up a little! I just don't want the noise.
I'll be completely honest still as I don't understand the logic that the 93 used on the ETC switch. Regardless how the slack is set, the spring loaded "safety lever" in the housing always, always returns and closes the ETC switch. To me, that just retards the timing and loads the engine full of fuel. Then as soon as you open the throttle, BAM! I don't get it. You can tell a huge difference in the way it feels and revs now, as the timing is not constantly being retarded when the throttle is closed.
Oh well, someday I will try to replace the limiter and see if that makes a difference.
Thanks for the help!

 

Old memory is slowly coming back as the early etc switches did close unlike the later models that did stay open.When closed they retarded ignition on the later models. Yours should touch! As far as replacing the reverse limiter module I wouldn't spend the money for something that will fail again! Just a safety device that most people never liked to begin with..