Hey guys,

Ok so I'm brand new to this forum, I'm working on a 2004 Honda TRX400FGA for a friend of mine to help restore it. Of course this thing ran well between the years of 2004 and 2007. Wasn't ran a lot but was ran hard when it was. Sat without running until 2010. In 2010 it was carb adjusted and got it running and ran around the driveway a little bit and sat again until now. It was indicated that there was no gas in oil at last runtime in 2010. So I figure just float valve stuck open on last shutdown. BUT, my main question is, since there was gas in the oil (gas tank is complete empty from that).

"Is there anything else I need to check beside draining, thoroughly, the oil out of the crank case and replacing the oil filter?"

I currently have a new float and carb kit coming in today, plus I have replaced the sparkplug, airfilter, fuel line, petcock valve (fuel shutoff valve).

Also, one other question, the petcock valve is froze, i can't even break it free, which is why I bought another one and the handle as the original was stripped trying to operate the valve. The question is, do these Petcock values have a tendency to freeze up like that after long periods of time? The other one is supposed to be here like Oct 20 or so I have broke down the tank yet.

Please note, I'm no mechanic by any means but am mechanically inclined, so I'm not afraid to tear things down and try and figure out.. heheheh, with the help of 513 page service manual, I'm REALLY not a afraid now.. hehehe, only thing holding me back is money for bigger issues hehehe.

Here is what I'm currently doing right now but none of it is 'installed' yet:
NGK (DPR7EA-9 BLYB) Traditional Spark Plug - correction this is installed, the rest is not.
10W-40 Oreillys Oil conventional
14BS Battery
Oil Filter HF111
Air Filter
Carburator Rebuild Kit - as soon as I pick up kit tomorrow
Fuel Tank Petcock valve
Petcock Lever
carburator float kit - as soon as it is delivered

differential gear oil replacement and new fuel line will come soon

Thanks in advance guys, any information considered very useful.
Tazzin

 

Sounds like you're pretty well prepared. Yes fuel valves can freeze up and all depends on how much gas has diluted the oil over the years. If mine I'd pour a couple table spoons full of oil in the cylinder and crank it over with the plug out just to coat the cylinder walls. Also after you get it running I wouldn't hesitate to drain the oil again and change the filter after it warmed up thoroughly. Yes you'd burn 2 or 3 quarts of oil and a filter so to speak,but that should remove any possible gas residue that could damage the engine.Oil is cheap compared to parts and labor on a rebuild.

 

Hey Old P' Tech,

I have seen some of your other responses on something similar to this issue from another forum question in here dated back in 2009 I think. You have good info, and I highly appreciate it. Good ide'r about the oil in the cylinder without spark plug, didn't think of that.. np on the extra oil and filter change after that, i agree with you on that. better 20 bucks rather than 200 bucks (OR MORE).. heheeh.. Just for verification purposes, when you say Crank it over with plug out, what do you think.. 4 or 5 turnovers of the engine would be good? I'll do this without gas in the tank to start with. Do you think there is anything else I need to look at besides what I have already listed? I'm about 210.00 in parts right now, would probably be 810 including labor if I was take it somewhere hehehe.. if I can get this thing fixed and running, that will be the cheapest fix I have ever done.. .

 

Spark plug out and just a couple spin overs to coat the cylinder walls and rings with oil.Sitting this long the cylinder,piston and rings have to be dry.This can help stop any top end damage at crank up. Plus not a bad idea to throw a little oil over the rocker arms and cam.MAKE sure the plug cap is away from the engine in case of accidental gas spray. Not good to burn down the project. Plus don't jinx this project as some have done before the job was finished. Pat yourself on the back after it's up and running and you total the costs,then sit back and drink a cold one and smile.. Good luck.. Keep us updated.

 

LOL, well, I always keep the statement of 'MURPHY'S LAW' in the back of my head. But I always try to look at the positive side of everything. So i'm not new to the fact that things screw up along the way.. And YES, I was going to tape off the pull down the spark plug end to avoid ANY open spark near the open hehehe, I will keep you rolling post of my progress of Wins and Losses of what I find.. heheh Again, thanks for the clarification and information..

 

By the way, i see you location is North Texas as well, what area if you don't mind me asking..?? Unless that is a little too much information, I'll completely understand.

 

Between Rockwall and Farmersville outside the city limits of a little town around 2200 people. Getting too crowded,was only 700 when I moved here 34 years ago..

 

Holy cow, we are neighbors, I'm in Westminster, the bankrupt town.. Annexed in to Anna... HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! I think we have 200 people here LOL, that is shortening it little, maybe 1500 people might be pushing it.. but has to be close to that.

 

Yep I've been through there some years back.

 

Ok Old P' Tech,

I have some dire news.. looks like there is probably 100% cylinder head corrosion. The picture below is a look into the intake with carburetor off. I have informed my friend about this and asked how to proceed. "Continue Or Not to Continue.? THAT is the question." I can only assume that the piston, cam, valves and all adjoining space that is in this path of corrosion can get to is probably down to the crankcase and probably in the gears or whatever else is share in the crankcase.. Probably looking at a full motor replacement + a few other things, just on the assumption level, now that Murphy's Law has set in.. hehehehe. SO needless to say, the project is currently at a halt until otherwise notified.