I just dug up a crossfire 150cc buggy wiring diagram. Their 4 pin regulator is wired up like yours. This only adds to the confusion, but it reiterates the need for stator tests and some caution before rewiring.

The crossfire wiring shows the lighting running off one the AC terminals (like yours). It shouldn't matter how the yellow and white are wired to the AC input terminals. Looking into the regulator those two inputs are symetrical circuit wise, and therfore interchangable.

 

I dont know if this will help, but my 200CC Gio Beast with the CG200 engine was not charging because the battery died on my on a trail. Turned out that my voltage regulator was painted, and the body of the regulator was not making a ground to the frame. Took it off, and sanded where it bolts to the frame, and now it charges.

 

Voila, I got it to charge.

I first sanded the mounting hole on the rectifier then arranged the connecter plugs according to Lynn's pic of his rectifier and it's now charging. By doing 2 things at once I'm not sure if it needed the sanding but I'm sure it didn't hurt.

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Glad you got it running.

On the 150cc GY6 regulators there may be a way to measure the internal rectifier diodes and determine the pinout of an unknown regulator so that it can be wired up properly without having to guess at it. It requires that the regulator use the shunt style voltage regulating scheme, which so far all I've seen follow. I still have to do some more testing to make sure this is true. It was on my list for today but I didn't get to it. Maybe tomorrow.

This measurement scheme will not work for 110cc style regulators which use the same four pin connector and also seem to have no standard pinout between brands. These regulators use a buck style regulating scheme instead of shunt regulating.

 

To determine the pinout of the regulator pictured and for sale on EBAY you can use a voltmeter.
For this regulator, there are four pins. One of the Pins is for POSITIVE connection, one for the NEGATUVE connection, and the other two are for connection to the STATOR (alternator). To figure out which is which perform the following -
1. Set the voltmeter to diode check.
2. Pick any TEST Pin to start with and Connect the POSITIVE lead of the voltmeter to it
3. Move the negative lead to each of the other pins in order and record the readings
4. Disconnect the Meter Positive Lead and connect the METER NEGATIVE lead in its place.
5. Move the positive lead to each of the other pins in the same order and record the readings.
6. Review your results. If they look like the table below, you have found the POSITIVE pin!
TEST PIN_______1st Measurement _____2nd Measurement _3rd Measurement
POSITIVE Lead _______1 ______________1______ ____________1
NEGATIVE Lead _____LOW ___________LOW _______________HIGHER

7. If you don't get a set of readings like the above, choose a different TEST PIN and repeat 1-6 until you find a TEST PIN that gives you these results

Conclusion - When you find a TEST PIN that gives you readings as above, that TEST PIN is the POSITIVE PIN. The PINS that measure LOW and about the same are the Stator Pins, and the remaining pin is the NEGATIVE PIN.
NOTE - Either stator (alternator) wire can be connected to either stator pin.

For Example When I used the Top Left pin when viewing the connector as shown in the picture as the TEST PIN, I got the following readings -
TOP LEFT _____________TOP RIGHT _______BOTTOM LEFT __BOTTOM RIGHT
POSITIVE METER LEAD ______1____ ___________1 _______________1
NEGATIVE METER LEAD _____525 _____________530 ____________1250

So my Top Left PIN is the POSITIVE, TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM LEFT are the Stator (Altenator) and BOTTOM LEFT is the NEGATIVE PIN.
I hooked it up according to this on my BSA and it worked fine.
regards

 

CORRECTION "So my Top Left PIN is the POSITIVE, TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM LEFT are the Stator (Alternator) and the BOTTOM RIGHT is the NEGATIVE PIN.

 

@lynnedwards,
can you tell what is the value of rectifiers D4-D7?, and how much current can those rectifies handle? Thanks ...

 

not that a five year old thread is bad or anything ... here's what i am wrestling with and feel your mutual pain. 2006 kinroad xt110gk (id tag says 124cc) - rectifier and harness fried. have repaired harness and am now left wondering which of the red (bat hot)-yellow (alt/stator)-white (alt/stator)-green (frame ground) wires attach to which pins of the rectifier. facing the rectifier white plug am numbering upper left #1, upper right #2, lower left #3 and lower right #4. any help is appreciated ohm check indicates resistance between 1 and 3 about 1.2 and between 2 & 4 is 2.3. am still working on getting diode test procedure down correctly, before arriving at a conclusion. this should not be so difficult as the common theme seems to be multiple rectifiers used on similar machines, with no common practice applied. any help is greatly appreciated. thank you