yamoto 200cc atv
#1
So I picked one up a few days ago and it ran fine the first day drove it easy and not hard at all and decided to go get gas so i drove about 30 minutes straight and after hitting a few trails and a little bit of slashes from small puddles/snow still on the ground the bike started to lose power
at first it would run fine at constant speed with little sputter then it got worse and worse i made it home and kept close
drove it easy to see if it got worse and it did i would have no power at all
until finally it has no power at all but will start with the choke on
( only if the choke is on though and will die when turned off and also sputter and not fully rev)
I am thinking carburator it has spark, and i am going to do a compression test later when i get the tool for it
it's a 200cc yamoto liquid cooled
Any light that can be shed would be wonderful!
i was also told it could be piston rings
what makes me think it's the carb is it ran fine and would only sputter when trying to give full accelleration i kept steady throttle and it would run and the gradual getting worse until what it is doing now!!
how should i clean the carb? and know for sure it's clean
thanks
at first it would run fine at constant speed with little sputter then it got worse and worse i made it home and kept close
drove it easy to see if it got worse and it did i would have no power at all
until finally it has no power at all but will start with the choke on
( only if the choke is on though and will die when turned off and also sputter and not fully rev)
I am thinking carburator it has spark, and i am going to do a compression test later when i get the tool for it
it's a 200cc yamoto liquid cooled
Any light that can be shed would be wonderful!
i was also told it could be piston rings
what makes me think it's the carb is it ran fine and would only sputter when trying to give full accelleration i kept steady throttle and it would run and the gradual getting worse until what it is doing now!!
how should i clean the carb? and know for sure it's clean
thanks
#3
Welcome to the forum technetrium! 
More than likely a dirty carb... to clean it,, remove it from the quad... remove all screws... but before your remove the fuel screw(on the bottom of the carb) turn it in and count how many turns its was set at.. 1 1/4... 1 3/4, etc... write it down so you dont forget..
You will need to remove the float bowl and the 2 brass jets inside the bowl.. the larger on in the middle also screws into a brass tube.. you need to unscrerw that also and spray everything with carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it.. That tube has little holes in the side of it and they need to be clear.. you should be able to see light thru the jets and the little holes in the side of the tube also... be sure to not spray carb cleaner on the carb until its apart and keep any rubber parts away from the carb cleaner..If you dont they will grow to a useless size..
Id replace the stock plug with a NGK D8EA if you havnt already..

More than likely a dirty carb... to clean it,, remove it from the quad... remove all screws... but before your remove the fuel screw(on the bottom of the carb) turn it in and count how many turns its was set at.. 1 1/4... 1 3/4, etc... write it down so you dont forget..
You will need to remove the float bowl and the 2 brass jets inside the bowl.. the larger on in the middle also screws into a brass tube.. you need to unscrerw that also and spray everything with carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it.. That tube has little holes in the side of it and they need to be clear.. you should be able to see light thru the jets and the little holes in the side of the tube also... be sure to not spray carb cleaner on the carb until its apart and keep any rubber parts away from the carb cleaner..If you dont they will grow to a useless size..
Id replace the stock plug with a NGK D8EA if you havnt already..
#4
Welcome to the forum technetrium! 
More than likely a dirty carb... to clean it,, remove it from the quad... remove all screws... but before your remove the fuel screw(on the bottom of the carb) turn it in and count how many turns its was set at.. 1 1/4... 1 3/4, etc... write it down so you dont forget..
You will need to remove the float bowl and the 2 brass jets inside the bowl.. the larger on in the middle also screws into a brass tube.. you need to unscrerw that also and spray everything with carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it.. That tube has little holes in the side of it and they need to be clear.. you should be able to see light thru the jets and the little holes in the side of the tube also... be sure to not spray carb cleaner on the carb until its apart and keep any rubber parts away from the carb cleaner..If you dont they will grow to a useless size..
Id replace the stock plug with a NGK D8EA if you havnt already..

More than likely a dirty carb... to clean it,, remove it from the quad... remove all screws... but before your remove the fuel screw(on the bottom of the carb) turn it in and count how many turns its was set at.. 1 1/4... 1 3/4, etc... write it down so you dont forget..
You will need to remove the float bowl and the 2 brass jets inside the bowl.. the larger on in the middle also screws into a brass tube.. you need to unscrerw that also and spray everything with carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it.. That tube has little holes in the side of it and they need to be clear.. you should be able to see light thru the jets and the little holes in the side of the tube also... be sure to not spray carb cleaner on the carb until its apart and keep any rubber parts away from the carb cleaner..If you dont they will grow to a useless size..
Id replace the stock plug with a NGK D8EA if you havnt already..
Thanks, I have tried cleaning the carb and it seemed to do the trick, keeping count of the turns on the pilot jet when i put it back together it runs and will idle rough/ fully accell but since i cannot get to the pilot screw to adjust it more as it's way under the carb and hard to access i just took it to a buddy to take a look at er!
bike does run and idle but would idle to high in gear and keep it moving with no gas! not bad for 20 and haven't worked on a motor since i was 16!
hopefully that does the trick
regardless im changing the plugs, changing the oil and going to re-tape up around any open electrical circuts and spray them with silicone
just as prevenative cause odd's are the bike won't be that lightly used

This forum has deffinatley helped! espically with part websites! basically every possible part i could need is under 100$
#5
regardless im changing the plugs, changing the oil and going to re-tape up around any open electrical circuts and spray them with silicone
Maybe a new tip here. So what is this silicon spray? Does it help water from collecting around the contacts? Does it help with actual water contact like going through a puddle or more for keeping contacts dry by keeping condensation drops off?
Thanks
#6
like a spray on film that will just help the water from collecting/getting inside electrical components a few quick layers dryed + tape should help in terms of preventive maintenance not that it needs it but the wires were taped in some spots when i got it so i will change out the tape with better electrical tape and the silicon spray just as an added benefit
far as i know it doesn't keep water off the actual contacts themselves?
although i know it can be good for use on distributors when there are small gaps where the current may be jumping my parents have used this on a car we owned every 2 months or so another spray would keep it working and not sputtering
#7
although i know it can be good for use on distributors when there are small gaps where the current may be jumping my parents have used this on a car we owned every 2 months or so another spray would keep it working and not sputtering
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#8
Ahh.. right. That rings a bell for it use. What it does is displace the water so the contacts will work. It's a good idea as you say. Only issue may be trying to tape over where the spray exists. If it hardens then that would work but if it stays liquid then that won't work so well.
I don't know if it hardends as it's not a thick layer but more of a thin film
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