I just got a near new 90cc Sunl from a friend of mine. It was riden for a couple of years by his boys and had absolutely no problems with it. They put it in the shed and that is where it has sat for a couple of years. He passed it onto me for my boy to use and all it needed was some fresh gas and a battery. Please note that everything is intact and original on the quad and therefore is not abused or neglected in any way.

I brought the quad home and got a new battery for it. After charging it the required time, I installed the battery, and NOTHING! When I say nothing, there is absolutely nothing. No lights, no humming, no rollover. Just plain DEAD. I am somewhat mechanically inclinded, but wanted to get some feedback before I started into it as it might be something simple.

I checked to make sure the tether cord was on and it is fine. I will state that the only thing that I don't have is the key fob for the remote kill.

The key switch seems that it is functioning and the brake switch clicks when one pulls the brake handle.

Any help is greatly appreciated on where to start or what might be the problem.

Thanks

Todd

 

Try checking the in line fuse under the seat....it should be somewhere on the positive lead from the battery. If thats not it, check the tether cord kill switch with an ohm meter. Make sure your tehter cord is on.

 

The inline fuse is ok. I checked that prior.

As far as the tether, I messed with it and even took the breakaway cap off and depressed the mechanism by hand on the inside to make sure it was being disengaged fully. I still had nothing. What should the ohms be when checking it?

On another note, is there anything on the key fob transmitter that would need to be activated?

It has to be something simple that I am overlooking.

Thanks

Todd

 

You're just testing for continuity. Ohms should be zero. Sorry, but I dont know about the key fob.

 

Jacko424 is right on the money telling you to check the main fuse. This was my first thought as well. Did you check the fuse with an ohmmeter, or did you do it visually? Visual inspection is OK the vast majority of the time but at times hairline cracks in the fuse element has stumped a lot of seasoned technicians.

Tether kill switches prevent spark from occuring, but don't keep the quad from cranking the starter motor. Also, the tether switch on your quad needs to be open to allow spark. A shorted tether switch will kill spark. If in doubt unplug the tether switch. Leave the wiring harness connector dangling. As far as the tether kill switch is concerned spark is now enabled. (But again this has nothing to do with the starter cranking).

Remote modules are disabled by simply unplugging them same as the tether kill switch above. When you do this the quad can no longer be shut off using the ignition switch (use the handle bar kill switch instead), but other wise the operation is the same.

Do you have a voltmeter? You might need one to find this problem. They are cheap these days (less than $10.00) if you shop around - no reason not to have one.

While your finding a meter do the following:

Follow the fat red wire from the battery (+) terminal to the starter solenoid screw lug (one of two lugs). Follow the other screw lug on the starter solenoid down to the starter motor input post. Now that you've found the two starter solenoid screw lugs lets see if the battery will turn the starter motor:

1) Set the brake. Put the quad in neutral.
2) Turn the ignition switch on.
3) Turn all kill switches into the "run" position.
4) Short the two screw terminals on the starter solenoid together with the shank of a screwdriver. Some sparking is OK.

A) Does the starter motor turn?
B) Does the quad start?

This is just a start. Do find a meter though. This is a simple problem. With a little help you can fix this....

Since your quad has been sitting for so long be prepared for some carburetor cleaning...

 

Jacko424 is right on the money telling you to check the main fuse. This was my first thought as well. Did you check the fuse with an ohmmeter, or did you do it visually? Visual inspection is OK the vast majority of the time but at times hairline cracks in the fuse element has stumped a lot of seasoned technicians.

Tether kill switches prevent spark from occuring, but don't keep the quad from cranking the starter motor. Also, the tether switch on your quad needs to be open to allow spark. A shorted tether switch will kill spark. If in doubt unplug the tether switch. Leave the wiring harness connector dangling. As far as the tether kill switch is concerned spark is now enabled. (But this has nothing to do with the starter cranking).

Remote modules are disabled by simply unplugging them same as the tether kill switch above. When you do this the quad can no longer be shut off using the ignition switch (use the handle bar kill switch instead), but other wise the operation is the same.

Do you have a voltmeter? You might need one to find this problem. They are cheap these days (less than $10.00) if you shop around - no reason not to have one.

While your finding a meter do the following:

Follow the fat red wire from the battery (+) terminal to the starter solenoid screw lug (one of two lugs). Follow the other screw lug on the starter solenoid down to the starter motor input post. Now that you've found the two starter solenoid screw lugs lets see if the battery will turn the starter motor:

1) Set the brake. Put the quad in neutral.
2) Turn the ignition switch on.
3) Turn all kill switches into the "run" position.
4) Short the two screw terminals on the starter solenoid together with the shank of a screwdriver. Some sparking is OK.

A) Does the starter motor turn?
B) Does the quad start?

This is just a start. Do find a meter though. This is a simple problem. With a little help you can fix this....

Since your quad has been sitting for so long be prepared for some carburetor cleaning...

 

Ok. I followed your steps and here is what I have found out.

When crossing the terminals on the atv, it fired right off no problem. With it running, both the key and kill switch work just fine. What doesn't work are the lights. I honestly don't know if they were working prior to or not. I would have to guess that they were, but once again, not positive. Do you think that it is the switch or the silinoid?

On the subject of the carb, what do you suggest as the best cleaning method to make sure it is at its best? I have noticed that it is a bit sluggish. I did put a fair amount of Seafoam in the tank as I do with all of my other engines and it seems to really help and keep things working the way they should.

Thanks

Todd

 

Hi Todd,

I'm not the best person for carb cleaning experience. MyWifesQuad or others are much better at this than me. Otherwise I'd look at the stickies for really good info.

Your quad ignition system runs off high voltage AC coming from the stator. For the quad to run all you need to do is start turning the engine with the spark not killed (and with fuel, etc) and it will start up. This works just like your lawn mower. Squeeze the handle (to allow spark) and turn the engine (by pull rope usually) and it starts and runs.

On your quad there is a starter motor instead of a pull rope, and a battery to power it (and switches and safety interlocks and wiring). You bypassed the ignition switch, and all the interlocks (and much of the wiring) by shorting the solenoid lugs. It started and it runs. That's a major clue.

Because your lights don't work I'm suspecting the ignition switch. Take a meter and probe the wires on you ignition switch. The red wire is the one to probe with while the black wire is on frame ground. Set you meter to measure DC volts on the 20 volts scale:

One pin on your ignition switch should read battery voltage all the time. Another pin should read battery voltage only when the ignition switch is turned on. The other two wires will connect to ground and to the kill switch bus, but these two wires are working since you can use the ignition switch to shut the quad down.

As a help to me, what are the wire colors on your ignition switch? Use the wire colors in the main wiring harness, not the wires to the ignition switch itself. You may have to remove some plastic to get at the ignition switch connector into the wiring harness.