Oh I forgot to tell you
I keep a Maintainer that keeps the battery charged, or is it called a Trickle charger, either way I keep it on the battery when not in use.
Thanks

 

My responses in Blue:

After I try to start it sev times & it sounds like it is going dead I check it with the key on but not trying to start it. When it sounds like the batt is going dead, (starter dragging) that is after I have tried to start it sev times, those numbers were just 2 diff times after trying to get it to start.
I tried to jump the starter but got scared cause I was not sure I was doing it right and stopped.

It could very likely be that your battery just is worn out (I did see you later post that you do have a maintenace charger). Jumping a quad to a car is just like jumping a car to a car. Connect the battery positive terminal of the car to the battery positive terminal of the quad. The car battery negative to quad battery negative. No big deal as long as you make extra sure you get the polarity right. Also make sure the cables don't short to each other or to anything else while hooking them up.

I do think I finally learned how to use this meter right (cause now the numbers are matching better) My husband checked the meter by checking a wall socket and he said it was good.
But here are the new readings:
AC Ign Power Pin - AC 200 volt scale - tgrounded to eng - 33.8

33.8 is a little low but probably OK

Timiong Trigger Pin - at AC my lowest 200m - while cranking - .2

I'm assuming that is 0.2 Volts AC. That is an acceptable reading

2k resistance Ohms -leads shorted (is this how you do that) I placed the red/black lead on the timing trigger pin at the same time - 0
then I just stuck the red one to it and got nothing but a 1 which is there when you turn the meter on.

I'm not understanding this test at all. When measuring resistance you are always measuring the resistnace between the two meter leads. Thus when you short those two leads together you should get zero ohms - regardless of what else you connect the shorted leads to. If you see a "1" in the leftmost digit of the meter signifies open circuit, or infinite resistance.


So what were you trying to measure here?


I turned the Ign Off & measured the AC Ign Power Pin - with eng ground , not cranking & got 432 Ohms with meter set at 2000
Measured Timing Trigger Pin to ground got (sitting still) 144 - is this Low?

Now you are measuring resistances correctly. 432 ohms sound good for AC power, and 144 ohms is good for the trigger winding.

I set meter to I beleive it was 200 or 20 Ohms & measured the Ground Pin - green wire - with eng ground and got 00.4 -Is this suppose to be 0 ? If so How do I fix it?
Ign Coil Pin - eng ground - I got .7

0.4 ohms for the ground wire resistance is higher than I'd expect, but I don't think it is high enough to cause a problem. Primary coil resistance is fine. What happens if you measure the resistance of your two meter leads shorted together on the 200 or 20 ohm scale? I wouldn't be surprised if you got something larger than 0 ohms. This would indicate a minor meter error, but one you can probably ignore.

Is this quad grounding out & is that why it will not start ?
Please help me her friend is here for the weekend & they want to ride so bad. ANY help is appreciated.
Thank You for all the help you have given.

So I'm still interested in whether you have a steady spark, and whether you have a bright spark at normal cranking speeds.

All your other measurements are normal.

So I was reviewing the previous posts - if you put your old coil back in does it go from producing weak spark to no spark? Maybe your second coil is bad too.

Based on your measurements is is looking like all the inputs are OK, and you still have weak spark. That means the coil or CDI must be at fault.

 

I received the new CDI yesterday, the plug was a different color but it was a 5 pin, what I needed, so I assume it does not matter as long as the pins are the same right?
I put it in & tried to start but it still will not, but now when you turn it over it is stronger but has a bumping sound occasionally while trying to start it. It is hard to explain, it acts like it wants to take off when this happens. Any ideas what this is ?
As for spark, now I see a spark that is blue & it is in a straight line across the plug, electricity is going to it because I messed up & touched it , Found out the hard way Not to do that.
But it sounds like it has a stronger sound when trying to start it now.
My brother cleaned out the carb when I first got it, about 2-3 weeks ago. The guy that had it let it set up with gas for awhile then cleaned it out, so I am wondering could it be clogged again. I do not know anything at all about this stuff so I am just guessing.
I do not know how to do the test unless it is explained step by step, so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

I took the Carb off and cleaned it and when I put all back the Throttle cable button on handlebar pushes in real easy, No tension on it, like it is broke. I took it off again readjusted spring it still does the same thing.
I noticed the little black thing that pushes the spring has a chip out on one side, did I break it ?
Also, when I took the carb off there was a black plastic like gasket (between the manifold & the carb) that fell off in two pieces and a O-Ring fell off, there is a part of the gasket that is missing. This is suppose to be one whole gasket right?
Could this be the reason it is not starting?
Please help as soon as possible before I go crazy.
Sincerely
Thanks

 

You now have spark, so it is on to fuel and compression issues. I'm not an expert here so I'm hoping others will chime in.

You do need a airtight seal around the carburetor and intake manifold.

Cleaning the carburetor involves complete disassembly - down to removing the brass jets and looking to see if you can see light through them.

You may need to adjust the valves. This is a common cause of hard starting in 110cc engines. The valve clearance tightens with wear, and also tightens with cold. Thus the first symptom of tight valves is progressively harder starting when cold (leading to no starting eventially), but once the engine warms it will start up easily.

 

I have put a new coil,CDI,Spark Plug on this thing and I have had the carb cleaned by a professional, I have a good spark now, the plug is wet so it is getting fuel. A friend gave me a rectifier, don't know if it is good or not, tried that did not work. It just turns over, kinda like a lope, but won't start. I have a new stator magneto, but was told if I have a spark it is not that. I was also told it could be the starter relay, Where/what is this? How do I fix it?
Have no idea where/how to check valve clearance, any help appreciated.About ready to give up.
Thanks

 

If you have spark it is not the stator. The stator is involved in making spark and keeping the battery charged. If your starter turns at a normal rate then this has nothing to do with the quad not starting.

Ditto with the rectifier/regulator.

If your starter turns it is not the starter solenoid (relay).

Definately check your valve clearance. This is a *very* common cause of hard/no starting. Send me a private message with your email address. I'll send you a manual with a valve adjustment procedure. The manual isn't for your particular quad, but the engine is the same and the procedure is the same.

 

Lynn,
Thanks for all your help. I finally got it started, after I put a new starter,coil,CDI,battery on it. I cleaned the Carb again and broke the smaller pilot, I guess it didn't matter much cause it is running. I broke the part where you place the screwdriver to screw it in, it just fell off. The slide (needle) was in incorrectly, I adjusted the float, gas was running out the overflow hose, and I jumped the remote box then it started up for the first time in about 5 weeks. There still is a problem starting it though. When you start it it turns a few times then it just stops for a second then feels like it jumps and then it starts up, any ideas what this is? When I put the starter on I did not have to do anything to the chain, I just slipped it over the starter piece, I read somewhere that you need to take the linkage thing out, then slip the chain on and put them back. Could the chain be too loose and cause the jumping like action?
Also, when I took the old starter off, there was a Black dust on it, then today I took the stator cover off to check it and there was more Black dust in it even after the new starter was in.
Before it would not idle without keeping your thumb on the throttle, now I had to turn the idle screw way down.
Should I go ahead and buy a new carb since the pilot jet is broke?
Could you tell me what color wire goes to what ohter color when you jump the remote box? I have a wire - one end in the gray/white wire spot, then the other end in the black/white spot (one is on top then the other end right below it), then the black wire is at top right corner- it connects with the green wire when plug together, the red wire is at bottom right corner and it connects with the black wire when plugged together.( These are in the 9 pin connector that goes to the remote box.)
Sorry this is so long, I would love to get this right where I do not have to worry about it anymore. I pray that it still starts tomorrow. Oh I almost forgot, since I jumped the remote box, if you press the handlebar brake handle it shuts down the motor.
Thanks

 

Ha, this thing is starting to sound like my friends Yamaha. Except He paid $10000 for it's in the shop once a month for $500 a pop. Gets it home from the dealer and it's down again in a month and he's waiting 6 weeks for parts.

thankgod for people like Lynn and others who help solve problems for backyard mechanics

 

I'm not a good source of info on the mechanical stuff. I am mechanically inclined, but I don't have as much much direct experince on the mechanical side of repairing quads as I do on the electrical stuff. I'm hoping others can fill in here...

You shouldn't really need to do anything to bypass the remote module. Just unplug it. But the quad no longer will shut off with the ignition switch - you have to use the handlebar kill switch to stop the engine. But otherwise everything is the same. Most people just leave it this way and get used to it.

If you want to use the ignition switch to kill the engine then one jumper wire needs to be added to the remote module. The wire colors vary from quad model to model. The procedure for identifying the proper wires is to find the color of the kill switch request wire on your ignition switch (in the wiring harness - not the switch pigtails in case they are different). Then look to see what color the kill switch wire is at the CDI. Finally find the two colors above in the remote connector and jump them together.

The motor shutting down when you apply the handlebar brake makes no sense yet to me. I would remove the jumper on the remote, then see if your wiring works like a standard quad - i.e. it starts, and the handlebar kill switch shuts it down (and the ignition switch doesn't).