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please help roketa 110cc won't spark

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Old 11-07-2010, 07:33 PM
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With the ignition switch removed and turned *off* use your meter to find two wires on the switch that are shorted together.

What do you mean when you are talking about the two wires that are shorted together? What is shorted together mean?
Is that the ones where it reads 1 or the ones that read 00.0 ?
I put meter on ohms 200 - stuck red lead to one & black lead to other, Is this right?
Sorry, I just never done any mechanic work until now, never knew how to use multimeter either, your a great teacher, Thanks!
 
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:36 PM
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P.S. I put red - red, black to black, blk/wh to grey/wh, Green to Green, now I have tail lights, it tries to start, I may need to boost it because since I put new rectifier on it , I have not ran it because of ign switch being out.
 
  #43  
Old 11-07-2010, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bevann59
With the ignition switch removed and turned *off* use your meter to find two wires on the switch that are shorted together.

What do you mean when you are talking about the two wires that are shorted together? What is shorted together mean?
Is that the ones where it reads 1 or the ones that read 00.0 ?
I put meter on ohms 200 - stuck red lead to one & black lead to other, Is this right?
Sorry, I just never done any mechanic work until now, never knew how to use multimeter either, your a great teacher, Thanks!
Yes, wires shorted together is the same as wires connected to each other, or zero ohms between the two wires. And yes, the procedure you used is completely correct (black lead on one wire, the red lead on the other wire, and using the 200 ohm scale to find zero ohms).

The word "shorted" has bad connotations. Many might assume that shorts are bad, even though the right connections (shorts) are necessary for things to work.

I'll try to remember not to use the word "short" when talking about normal inter connections. So that makes you a good teacher too!
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:00 PM
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Default Now it won't turn off by key/kill switch

Lynn,
I got the ign switch on and it starts it/seems to be getting volts on battery to 13 with new rectifier. But, now it won't turn off by the key/kill switch, handle bar brake or choke, I have to pull plug cap off.
I have the remote box connector like this :
I have a red wire - one end is where the grey wire was connected to the grey/wh on other end, then the other end of red wire is just below it where the yellow wire was- it was plugged to the blk/wh on other end.
I have tried moving them around, it would either not work at all or try to start by itself, apparently I am missing something here. Will you Please give me step by step directions on how to get this right ? Please.

This thing is wearing me down, I just about have it right, all I like is getting this straight, then when the new Carb comes in, put it on, & set the valve clearances, if I can get to them.
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:17 PM
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13 volts is low. And your meter should put out more digits than that. Does your reading of 13 volts mean 12.6 volts rounded up? Or maybe 13.4 volts rounded down? 13 volts all by itself is not enough info to determine if your battery is getting charged by the quad.

Re: Making the ignition swich stop the quad.

I looked back through all the posts up to now, and my eyes glazed over with all the information - some of which is good and some of which is suspect. Perhaps it is time to back up and look at the big picture:

1) You want to stop the engine when you turn off the ignition switch.

2)The CDI stops the engine by disabling spark when the kill switch pin on the CDI is grounded through a switch.

3) The ignition switch connects a pin to ground when you turn the ignition switch off. In the wiring harness I believe you said that wire color was black/white.

So take the black/white wire in the wiring harness at the ignition switch and connect it to the kill switch wire at the CDI. Now when the ignition switch is turned off the kill switch wire at the CDI will be grounded. This will kill the spark and stop the engine.

Ignore the remote connector. Leave it hanging free. The new kill wire will route directly from the ignition switch to the CDI kill switch instead of figuring out the remote connector which you say may have been modified.

Walmart and/or automotive stores sell mash on splice connectors that allow a new wire to be run easilly. You lay the exisiting wire on the connector slot, add a new wire in the second slot, fold over a locking cover and mash it on with a pair of pliers. V gooves in the splice connector slice through the wire insulation and squeeze into the wire core making a solid connection.

You can also try out this approach to see if it works by using a alligator style jumper wire with probes of some sort penetrating the connectors. Just keep in mind that the kill switch wiring has high voltage on it whenever the enigne is turning. So make sure connections are solid with your hands are pulled back before cranking or running the engine.
 
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