please help roketa 110cc won't spark
#22
I do not start it with the remote, I start it with the key. I did put a jumper wire in the remote box one end is in the blk/white (kill wire) spot & the other end is under it where a gray/wht wire was & the 2 wires that run to the brake were already wired together. After I did this it started, but now when you press the brake on handlebars it kills the motor, so we use the foot brake for now, but the other brake stops it better.
My remote box had some wires missing, it only had 4 wires going to a 9 pin connector ( the 2 I jumped above), a red wire ,& a black wire, then it has 2 white wires that go to the alarm in a 2 pin connector, it has some little holes for more wires, the guy I got it from must have removed them.
My remote box had some wires missing, it only had 4 wires going to a 9 pin connector ( the 2 I jumped above), a red wire ,& a black wire, then it has 2 white wires that go to the alarm in a 2 pin connector, it has some little holes for more wires, the guy I got it from must have removed them.
#24
I am just learning this stuff as I go, How do you do that and where is the switch?
Also, my brother adjusted the valve clearances before we got it to run again and now I hear a tapping noise, kinda like a chain hitting, and when you start it , it will turn over a few times then it skips (nothing) but I keep the start button pushed and then it will give a little jerk and turn over and start. Any idea what is causing this?
She is riding it with the tapping noise, will that mess the valves up/motor?
Thanks
Also, my brother adjusted the valve clearances before we got it to run again and now I hear a tapping noise, kinda like a chain hitting, and when you start it , it will turn over a few times then it skips (nothing) but I keep the start button pushed and then it will give a little jerk and turn over and start. Any idea what is causing this?
She is riding it with the tapping noise, will that mess the valves up/motor?
Thanks
#25
Valves will tick a wee bit, but if its loud and very noticeable you should readjust to the proper specs.
There should be wires going to the brake handle side. Follow the wires to the handle and brake, theres often a micro switch at the end of the wires.
Not sure about the turn over/skip thing, not familiar with the rocketa 110 engine starter setup. Chain from starter(if there is one) jumping a cog? Sprag clutch(if there is one) on flywheel slipping?
Out of interest, is your battery really strong, does it turn over quickly? Put a meter on the Batt while someone cranks the motor.....does the voltage stay above 12.1V. The reason I ask is because if the engine has some type of starter clutch they are often engauged by the speed of the starter turnover, if your batt is low it won't turn over fast enough it will disengauge the starter, slip(go faster during the slip) and catch again
There should be wires going to the brake handle side. Follow the wires to the handle and brake, theres often a micro switch at the end of the wires.
Not sure about the turn over/skip thing, not familiar with the rocketa 110 engine starter setup. Chain from starter(if there is one) jumping a cog? Sprag clutch(if there is one) on flywheel slipping?
Out of interest, is your battery really strong, does it turn over quickly? Put a meter on the Batt while someone cranks the motor.....does the voltage stay above 12.1V. The reason I ask is because if the engine has some type of starter clutch they are often engauged by the speed of the starter turnover, if your batt is low it won't turn over fast enough it will disengauge the starter, slip(go faster during the slip) and catch again
#26
You can use a short piece of garden hose (3 feet or so) to localize that tapping noise. Hold up one end to your ear and probe around the engine with the other end. If it is valves the sound will be localized at the top of the engine under the valve access covers. Valves shouldn't tap, but with loose valves the engine will run. With too tight valves the engine will not start. If you readjust the valves make sure the clearances are set on a cold engine, and be sure to double check the clearance after the lock not is tightened down.
By skipping do you mean the starter stalls after cranking a bit, then cranks some more after a brief pause (while holding the starter button down)? If so then jump the quad battery to your car and see if the same thing happens (get the polarity right when you do this). If the starter spins a little faster and the problem goes away then your battery is either not up to it or maybe your charging system isn't doing its job.
#27
You can use a short piece of garden hose (3 feet or so) to localize that tapping noise. Hold up one end to your ear and probe around the engine with the other end. If it is valves the sound will be localized at the top of the engine under the valve access covers. Valves shouldn't tap, but with loose valves the engine will run. With too tight valves the engine will not start. If you readjust the valves make sure the clearances are set on a cold engine, and be sure to double check the clearance after the lock not is tightened down.
By skipping do you mean the starter stalls after cranking a bit, then cranks some more after a brief pause (while holding the starter button down)? If so then jump the quad battery to your car and see if the same thing happens (get the polarity right when you do this). If the starter spins a little faster and the problem goes away then your battery is either not up to it or maybe your charging system isn't doing its job.
By skipping do you mean the starter stalls after cranking a bit, then cranks some more after a brief pause (while holding the starter button down)? If so then jump the quad battery to your car and see if the same thing happens (get the polarity right when you do this). If the starter spins a little faster and the problem goes away then your battery is either not up to it or maybe your charging system isn't doing its job.
Is it the Battery ? This is the second battery from them and they are not happy.
Before I got the ATV the man said someone tried to steal it and cut the red battery wire, we connected a 12 gauge wire to it with a male/female connector, could this have anything to do with it? I put the meter on it and it read same as battery.
Thanks for all the help.
#28
Why did you replace the fuse with 30 amps? This is too high. 7 or 10 amps is more reasonable. You are putting your wiring harness at risk if something goes wrong. Your wiring harness is not rated to handle a 30 amp load.
Note that the fuse value has *nothing* to do with how much current your starter motor draws. The starter motor (big fat heavy) feed wires which go through the starter solenoid, and the starter motor ground return, are not fused at all. They come straight off the battery. The starter draws 40-60 amps.
The fuse feeds (and protects) all the small wires that can't handle large currents.
I wish I had a lawnmower with a battery
. Mine has a pull rope.
Sounds like the quad battery can't source enough current.
You should be getting more than that. At speed with the headlights off you should be getting 13.5 to 14.5 volts across the battery terminals. It doesn't sound like your charging system is working as it should. Do you have an external charger that can keep the battery topped off even if our quad charging system isn't working? Batteries that are left sitting partially (or completley) discharged get ruined quickly. For charging, don't use a charger that charges with more than 2 amps and use a charger that shuts off when the battery is charged.
The 12 gauge wire is how long? And it goes from where to where? The joints are crimped, or are they soldered? Are those male/female connectors rated for 60 amps?
Note that the fuse value has *nothing* to do with how much current your starter motor draws. The starter motor (big fat heavy) feed wires which go through the starter solenoid, and the starter motor ground return, are not fused at all. They come straight off the battery. The starter draws 40-60 amps.
The fuse feeds (and protects) all the small wires that can't handle large currents.
. Mine has a pull rope. Sounds like the quad battery can't source enough current.
.... I let her warm it up and then took the multimeter and checked the battery again and she revved it up and it only got to 12.8 volts. Earlier, before it started, I held the multimeter to the posts of battery as she tried to start it and it dropped down to 10 volts.
Is it the Battery ? This is the second battery from them and they are not happy...
Is it the Battery ? This is the second battery from them and they are not happy...
...Before I got the ATV the man said someone tried to steal it and cut the red battery wire, we connected a 12 gauge wire to it with a male/female connector, could this have anything to do with it? I put the meter on it and it read same as battery.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
#29
The ATV came with a 25 amp glass fuse, the man at the scooter store told me it should have a 30 amp glass fuse.
Last night when she got thru riding it I checked the battery again , it was at 13 Volts, then I checked it at the fuse with meter, fuse removed, set on 10 Amps, it read 0, put fuse back in - 0, turned on key - 0. I left the trickle charger and fuse off all night, will check battery with meter today.
I always keep the trickle charger (battery maintainer) on it when not in use. It has a shut off on it when it gets to a certain voltage it goes into suspension.
As for the 12 guage red wire for the pos of battery - it has 2 pcs - a short pc goes from battery to where fuse wire joins to it and that is where the male/female crimped on pcs are- they plug together, then the fuse wire and battery wire are together (these wires are original here).
What do you mean by "Charging Sys" may not be working?
Should I take this battery back and get another one, it has a yr warranty.
Or is it not the battery, is the charging systhe rectifier and the stator?
Thanks.
Last night when she got thru riding it I checked the battery again , it was at 13 Volts, then I checked it at the fuse with meter, fuse removed, set on 10 Amps, it read 0, put fuse back in - 0, turned on key - 0. I left the trickle charger and fuse off all night, will check battery with meter today.
I always keep the trickle charger (battery maintainer) on it when not in use. It has a shut off on it when it gets to a certain voltage it goes into suspension.
As for the 12 guage red wire for the pos of battery - it has 2 pcs - a short pc goes from battery to where fuse wire joins to it and that is where the male/female crimped on pcs are- they plug together, then the fuse wire and battery wire are together (these wires are original here).
What do you mean by "Charging Sys" may not be working?
Should I take this battery back and get another one, it has a yr warranty.
Or is it not the battery, is the charging systhe rectifier and the stator?
Thanks.


