i bought a 2008 roketa 94, 110cc, it would run for awhile then quit, would not idle. then it just quit and will not start. i checked the plug and it is not getting a spark. i put a NGK plug in it. The coil wire -with spark plug end just fell off, I screwed it back on.
i saw your solutions and here is what i did :
I unplugged the CDI & tested the trigger pin on AC at 200 v, I got .14
on the ohm scale at 2000 I tested the ign power pin with the eng off & I got 427 on the timing trigger i got 143
on the 20- ohm scale i tested the resistance of the ground pin & I got 32 -I do not know for sure if I am doing this right, then I tested the ign coil pin and I got .01
when ign is on - not cranking - it reads .43, 8.2 on 20k with CDI unplugged
while cranking I got .1 once then .3
I did not know how to measure both AC & DC voltage on killswitch pin with CDI reconnected.
Ign Coil pin - measured resistance got .1
AC power pin resistance to ground at CDI connector - I got 430
Resistance of the Timing Trigger pin to ground - I got 144
I did not know how to disconnect coil primary & measure the resistance of the ign coil pin to ground at the CDI
This I definately think I got wrong - with CDI disconnected & while cranking eng measure the AC current to ground on Ign power pin of CDI, I did not know how to set to milliamp for sure - I tried & got 2.4
Ac ign power v pin - grounded while crank eng - I got 24.2
Ign Trigger pinI got .1
Ign coil pin - I got .1
Kill switch I got 0
Also, putting wrench on solenoid will turn it but not crank it.
The head lights are not working, I have a new battery and it reads 12 volts.
The tether switch was torn off when I got it and also the green and the black wire to the fr brake was taped together, the horn like alarm is unplugged, the remote box is plugged in.
Then I was checking in the back and the plug to maintain the battery has 2 wires - a red one & a black one - the black one fell off & I do not know which prong it goes on or how to put it back on, please help.
the prongs are 1 on top, then 2 at left & 3 at right.
I have ordered a CDI, Coil, & Stator. Please can someone please help me.
Thank you

 

New Info - I got the coil in today put it on and now I have a spark but it still will not crank. Just turns over until the Battery sounds like it is going dead, drags,but when i test the Battery with a volt meter it shows it still has 12.01 V.
I checked everything I saw on this Site that I could as Follows:CDI Unplugged
IGN Power Pin - Red/Blk wire -AC, V with squiggly line over it , at 200 - it kept jumping around but I got 17.9,14.4,25.1, 11.2 - Eng/Switch off/on - 0

Timing Trigger Pin - (I am checking the end that plugs into the CDI is this right ?) at 200 V - while cranking - blu/wht wire once it was 5.8 then it wentto 3.8 then to .1
- In resistance Ohms at 2000 - it was 382 then down to .3
- Eng OFF - yell/blk wire - jumps around 772,001
-Eng On - Jumped 760, .004

Ground Pin - at 20 Ohms resistance - On - 2.9, OFF - .4
Kill Switch Pin - Blk/Wht Wire - Off -.6, ON - 0

2000k Ohms I checked -Key ON
yell/blk wire -.1, red/blk .4-.1, Green - 2.9, Blk/wht -.1


There is a gr/yell & black wire that is taped together, in the front near the headlights,if you undo it the tail lights go OFF & it will do nothing (will not even turn over), below it there is a gr/yell & a black wire that is plugged into a green/yell ( or it may be a Green wire) (goes to Brake Safety Switch ) & a blk/white wire that disappears into the wiring harness. Is this Hooked up Wrong ? used 2000 Ohms tested the Green was .4 & the Blk/Wht was 0

Also, someone cut the Red Battery Cable wire so it has a real short red wire coming from the + post that is twisted/taped to another thick red wire & a small red wire that goes to the fuse, Will/Could this be affecting it ? I checked battery prior to starting -12.8 volts, while cranking - 11.8 V, after trying to crank - 12.7 V, after sev times of trying to crank it - 11.7 V
20 Ohms - gr/yell read 2.1, Black o
I Do Not Have ANYBrake or Headlights Working.
The Solenoid - trying to crank it - read 15-19 at 200v AC
When I jump it it tries to crank slow but does not.
Starter - at 20 V AC - with start button pushed jumps - 7,9,8,4, Green wire read 01, Black wire read -0 but at DC it read .82,.94, at this range starter read 1


2000 OHMS
yell/blk - .4, blu/wht 142, green 0.63, blk/wht 0, red/blk 427

Fuse - Taken Out -at 10A (put red probe into 10 A hole)- Key On - .68, Key OFF - 0
Fuse In - Key On (jumped around) - 2,6,9,0
Key OFF - 0
Again Battery - Key On -12.8 V, Key OFF - 12.7 V
Solenoid - Key On - 12.7 V, Key Off - 12.6 V
Starter Cranking (red probe on r/yell thick wire on bolt) - in V with the dots above it - DC - 10.2 V
Set at 200v - 17.5 on Ac - cranking
Ohms at 200k - 28.2 then down to 0
The thick blk & gr wire on a bolt beside starter motor on eng read 1400 etc.. it jumped around then to 0; the bolt when touched was 480 Ohms at 2000, starter on eng - 12, 0. Red probe on black wire on nut - 001 at 2000 Ohms.

I am sorry if I am giving too much, this thing has been down since the day after we bouhgtit for our 11 yr old grand daughter whom lives with us & she wants it to run so bad, PLEASE, PLEASE Help Us, I am a disabled grand mother whom is trying to fix it.
The CDI will be in Tomorrow hopefully.
Any Info would help.
Thank you soooo much !

 

You say that with your new coil you have spark. I just want to make sure you tested that correctly:

Pull the spark plug out, hook it back up to the spark plug wire, and hold the spark plug thread against the engine block. Crank the starter with all the kill switches in the "run" position. Do you see spark across the spark plug gap?

Assuming that you do have spark as tested above then your ignition system is working, and I'd start looking at fuel and compression issues. While you have the plug out spoon in 1/2 teaspoon of gas into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Quickly reinstall the plug and try to start it up. Does the quad attempt to start up on the small amount of gas you manually inserted?

Many of your meter readings aren't making a lot of sense. You may have a bad meter or maybe need some more practice. I'm ignoring this for now since if you have spark, and the quad isn't starting, then we're not fighting ignition electrical issues at the moment.

You say that when you undo the grn/yel and black wire (which were taped up) the tail light goes off and the starter won't crank. I suspect that the "tail light" is actually the brake light. There is a safety interlock on most quads that won't allow the starter to turn unless the brakes are applied. The brake switch is used as part of the interlock, and brake switches are a high failure item. Likely the taped wires above used to go to a brake switch which has been bypassed by shorting the two wires together. If your quad starter is turning and you're getting spark then this also can be ignored for now. Just be sure that you have the brakes applied and your quad is in neutral in case the quad starts up.

If your battery goes dead from cranking the starter you can always jump it to your car battery. Just be sure to get the jumper cable polarity correct: Plus to Plus, and minus to minus. Don't crank the starter continuously for a long time. Allow it to cool down between cranking cycles.

Not having headlights has nothing to do with quads starting up as long as you have spark. Get the quad running then come back to these less important issues.

If you find that you don't have spark as outlined in the test above then we will start again taking measurements with the meter - but we'll go in smaller steps so that we get consistant and valid measurements.

 

Thank you for your help. I will recheck the spark today and get back to you. It was daytime when I checked it before and I could barely see it. Again. Thank You for your help.

 

I tested it again but I did not see one when my Husband came home I got him to do it while I was beside him, he said there is a tiny spark, but I could not see it.
Please help

 

It tries to start butr it just won't, then after sev tries the starter starts dragging , like the battery is going dead, but when I check it it will have 12.7 - 11.6 V.
Thanks

 

The spark should be readilly visible and at a steady rate. Normal starter cranking speed is 600 RPM - that is ten revolutions per second. So you should see ten solid sparks per second if the starter is spinning at the normal speed. And yes, the quad fires a spark on every revolution even though it is a four stroke engine. The extra wasted spark doesn't hurt anything and is makes the engine design less complicated.

If your starter is turning slow becasue your quad battery is discharged then jump it to your car. Spark gets weaker as the engine cranking speeds are lowered. If you are fighting a weak spark you want to eliminate slow cranking speeds as a possibility.

Do you have a battery charger? Letting batteries sit around discharged ruins them very quickly. Walmart sell cheap small motorcycle battery chargers that will charge up your battery overnight.

 

How are you measuring your battery voltage? Is this while just sitting there with the ignition off? Or is this the voltage on the battery while the starter is turning?

The battery voltage shouldn't change between 12.7 volts and 11.6 volts unless you're measuring the voltage while turning a heavy electrical load on and off. Some of your earlier measurements also seemed to vary a lot too. I'm wondering if your meter isn't working right.

 

1) Get the starter to crank at normal speed (charge the battery, or jump it to your car).

2) When checking for spark look to see if the spark is happening at a steady rate of 10 sparks per second. If it is steady (even if weak) then you trigger cirsuitry is working fine.

3) See if the spark is still weak at normal cranking speeds. If so we need to make some voltage measurements (and check to see if your meter is working at the same time).

 

After I try to start it sev times & it sounds like it is going dead I check it with the key on but not trying to start it. When it sounds like the batt is going dead, (starter dragging) that is after I have tried to start it sev times, those numbers were just 2 diff times after trying to get it to start.
I tried to jump the starter but got scared cause I was not sure I was doing it right and stopped.
I do think I finally learned how to use this meter right (cause now the numbers are matching better) My husband checked the meter by checking a wall socket and he said it was good.
But here are the new readings:
AC Ign Power Pin - AC 200 volt scale - tgrounded to eng - 33.8
Timiong Trigger Pin - at AC my lowest 200m - while cranking - .2
2k resistance Ohms -leads shorted (is this how you do that) I placed the red/black lead on the timing trigger pin at the same time - 0
then I just stuck the red one to it and got nothing but a 1 which is there when you turn the meter on.
I turned the Ign Off & measured the AC Ign Power Pin - with eng ground , not cranking & got 432 Ohms with meter set at 2000
Measured Timing Trigger Pin to ground got (sitting still) 144 - is this Low?
I set meter to I beleive it was 200 or 20 Ohms & measured the Ground Pin - green wire - with eng ground and got 00.4 -Is this suppose to be 0 ? If so How do I fix it?
Ign Coil Pin - eng ground - I got .7
Is this quad grounding out & is that why it will not start ?
Please help me her friend is here for the weekend & they want to ride so bad. ANY help is appreciated.
Thank You for all the help you have given.