BMX 70 Electrical Issues - - HELP!!
#21
The brake lever interlock only keeps the starter motor from turning unless you have the brake applied. It does not interfere with spark generation at all. You can bypass this interlock (for test purposes) by turning on the ignition switch and jumping across the stater solenoid posts (set your parking brake, and make sure the transmission is in neutral first).
The kill switch input to the CDI is disabled (spark is enabled) by unplugging the wire to the CDI at the kill switch pin.
The kill switch input to the CDI is disabled (spark is enabled) by unplugging the wire to the CDI at the kill switch pin.
#23
Your ignition coil worked on the other quad, but you never reported back if it also measured 1.5 to 1.9 ohms through the primary winding when installed on the other quad. 1.5 ohms sounds high to me.
You also reported 10 - 18 something when measuring the kill switch pin. You never clarifies what 10-18 meant. Ohms? KOhms? What scale were you on? You may have two problems. It is sometimes not enough to say that I disconnected the kill switch wire and it still will not start - therefor the kill switch isn't the problem. Maybe another problem also prevents spark and you have to solve both before you have success.
I wish I could be there to watch what you are doing, but unfortunately I have only the info you write down in your posts to work with.
A lot of the tests involve measuring the CDI connector pins while the CDI is unplugged. After thinking about it I'm wondering if the pins aren't actually making good connections to the CDI when it is plugged back in. Just a thought...
When things get tough and don't make sense you need to repeat the tests while paying *extreme* attention to detail. Note anything and everything different or unusual. You're lucky to have a working quad to compare to. More information gives more clues as to what is going on.
#24
Finally some promising news, I was going to retest everything again and when I disconnected the killswitch wire from the CDI the atv started.
So now I'm guessing I will trouble shoot all kill switches and safety switches?
Jeff
So now I'm guessing I will trouble shoot all kill switches and safety switches?
Jeff
#25
In any case, you didn't measure an open on the kill switch wiring with all kill switches in the run position (you measured 10 -18 *something*
). It should measure open. So start disconnecting each kill switch (by unplugging it at each individual connector) while measuring the resistance. When you unplug the offending device the resistance will rise to infinity (open). Just remember that your skin has resistance so make sure your fingers are not part of the circuit while you're doing the measurements.Possible kill switches:
1) Handlebar kill switch
2) one pole of the two pole Ignition Switch
3) Rear Tether pull cord
4) Remote Control Module
Safety brake switch safety interlock only prevents the starter from turning. It doesn't prevent spark.
#26
I think your right about two things being wrong. I forgot to mention in the last post that I did do some wiggling of wires and connections and I opened up the stator and there was a tiny piece of metal on the magnet which I removed and after is when it started.
I will continue searching the kill switches and get back to you.
Jeff
I will continue searching the kill switches and get back to you.
Jeff
#27
Was this tiny piece of metal on the trigger pickup coil? This would be the small coil mounted outside the flywheel. Embedded inside this small coil is a magnet, and magnetic debris attached here will definitely affect the trigger signal to the CDI.
#28
The piece of metal was on the magnet that was in the cover that I removed. It was the only magnet that I noticed.
The problem killswitch is the remote kill switch. Also the start button still doesn't work so I may need to wire a pushbutton.
Jeff
The problem killswitch is the remote kill switch. Also the start button still doesn't work so I may need to wire a pushbutton.
Jeff
#30
You could just cut the kill switch wire at the remote control connector. That would allow you to start up the quad from afar, but if something goes wrong (like it starts up in gear and starts rolling away) you won't be able to shut it off from afar. Somehow that sounds like a bad idea...
If you just unplug the remote module everything will work as before (minus all the remote functions of course), except that you won't be able to shut off the quad with the ignition switch anymore - you'll have to use the handlebar kill switch instead.
You can restore the ignition switch shutoff function by adding a single jumper wire at the remote control connector. I can help you find those two pins if you want to do that, but most people just live with using the handlebar kill switch.
If you just unplug the remote module everything will work as before (minus all the remote functions of course), except that you won't be able to shut off the quad with the ignition switch anymore - you'll have to use the handlebar kill switch instead.
You can restore the ignition switch shutoff function by adding a single jumper wire at the remote control connector. I can help you find those two pins if you want to do that, but most people just live with using the handlebar kill switch.


