havent got a chance to try suggestions will do so on weekend, I did notice thought a small clicking sound coming from the key switch as if there was a short

also, before the no spark deal i did notice a bit of a clicking sound (perhaps backfire) coming from the engine, and a couple of times the engine just died out, able to fire up until it would just turn over which led to thw no spark dilema, I dont know if this information helps any

 

I recently purchased a replacement/backup CDI for my son's Taotao 110cc I purchased it for $0.69 and picked up some other stuff as well i.e. brake pads and spark plugs. Lynn will help you sort it out. He knows his stuff. Here is the link to the CDI if that is what you your going to need.

Cdi 03 for Chinese Atvs-dirt Bikes-go Karts 5 Pins - Cd270-03 - Cdi Boxes - Electrical Parts - In

 

could it be the magneto?

 

the resistance from the kill switch pin to frame ground was 003

0.003 what? This sounds wrong. The scale setting you used in important. What scale setting where you uing when doing this test?

I used a 200K setting since my meter did not have a 100K, and it read 3 on that scale

This still sounds too low. I would try disconnecting this pin from the CDI connector (as outlined before), then see if you have spark. But there are other problems below that need to be figured out as well.

from the AC pin (wire connector) to ground pin there was no reading the meter stayed at 1,

Again I suspect the scale setting here. A "1" means you weren't using a high enough scale or it is an open circuit (meaning a broken wire connection somewhere). But you also measured AC voltage further down (all be it somewhat low), but indicates it isn't a broken connection. Move your meter to a higher ohms scale and see it you get something other than "1" in the left most digit.

I rechecked this one again and could not get a reading the scale goes from 200 to 2000K and no reading on any on the points.

This is wrong. You should be measuring the resistance of the AC power winding in the stator of about 400 ohms. If you don't have power you will not get spark. But you get 22 volts (low) when cranking... Try measuring the resistance again between the AC Ignition Power pin to engine ground this time. I wonder if there is a ground problem in the wiring to the CDI. Also try measuring the resistance of the ground pin in the CDI connector to engine ground.

**** no change the result was the same could not measure a resistance.


the timming pin to ground was 126-128 (it would vary).

This sound OK

the volts from AC pin to ground while cranking was 22

This is low, but at least it is not zero. Lets come back to this if necessary.

the timimg trigger to ground while cranking was 02

0.02 what? What scale were you using? What does the switch say on the meter?

.02 volts

This is too low. Again I wonder about a ground problem at the CDI. Try measuring this voltage again from the Timing Trigger pin to engine ground while cranking the engine.

****I rechecked this again with same results, however I did notice a fluctuation from a 3.00 to a .02 volts


I seem to get no power to the CDI, even with a test light there is no power, i receive the new wiring harness and no luck.

Everything in your ignition system is powered by AC voltages ranging from fractions of a volt to hundreds of volts AC. Test lights are worthless for these types of measurements. An oscilloscope is the proper tool tool to use, but we have to do the best we can with what is available to ordinary people. A meter provides some useful data - a test light provides none.

****I dont think the CDI is getting any power. Could the magento have anything to do with it?

 

Latest is Purple:

 

I tried this and I still got a 1 reading to the far left, would I get a reading if i took the stator off and checked the resistance, from the AC (red/black) wire to the ground wire on the stator, or do I need to use the engine gorund? Because I checked the resistance from the ac wire to ground wire and just simply a 1, I tried all ohm settings

 

Yes you should be able to measure this wire to the stator frame after you remove it.

Inside the stator you will find that this wire parh is real simple. The red black wire goes to a coil of wire. The far end of the coil is grounded to the frame, and sometimes there is also a redundant ground wire that goes from the frame out to a ground wire on the connector.

I would suspect that your problem is on the ground side of the coil since you get 22 volts AC (way low) when cranking the quad. The stray capacitance of the coil to ground and an intact red/black wire might explain the low reading you got. I would think that if the red/black wire is broken somewhere you would no voltage at all when cranking.

In any case I would remove the stator and visually inspect the Ignition power coil and connections to it before buying a new stator. You may be able to fix it. Just remember that this is a high temperature environment, so you can't use ordinary electrical tape (etc) when doing any repairs. Solder is OK, and shrink tubing is OK.

It is also a high vibration environment. All wires must be secured down along their entire path inside the stator. If a wire can vibrate it *will* fail with time.

 

I received the new stator today installed it and the quad fired right up. so i guess it is safe to say thats where the problem was. i will still test it before it goes in the hands of the riders, so far so good, it may need a new battery though when i turn it off and try to restart the battery seems too weak. Thanks for all your help Mr. Edwards.

 

Your very welcome .