Kazuma Mini Falcon 90 No Fire Driving Me Bonkers
#1
06-16-2011, 10:17 PM
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Kazuma Mini Falcon 90 No Fire Driving Me Bonkers
Hello everyone. Ive got a problem that is driving me completely INSANE. Recently I was givin a 4 wheeler that I wanted to fix and give to my daughter for her Bday next month. Its a Kazuma Mini Falcon 90. Year model unknown. I purchased a new Battery, Ignition Switch, CDI Box, Stator Assembly, and Coil. Still no fire. Ive checked and rechecked all ground connections. Ive also ohmed all wires that were factory soldered for continuity. There are 5 wires coming from the stator. I was told that 2 were grounds wires and tracing them down confirmed it. When trying to crank with test light: 1 has good power,2 have very faint. There are no safety switches or fuses. Was thinking maybe Voltage Regulator but I thought that wouldnt matter till it was running. Im at my wits end with this thing. I have completly no idea what to do from here. Any help would be greatly greatly appreciated.
#2
06-16-2011, 11:28 PM
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. You're wasting your time with that test light. The really ironic thing is that even good meters are cheaper than test lights, and provide information that you can actually use. And they are *certainly* a lot cheaper than all those parts you threw at the engine trying to fix this problem 
.
).The following procedure assumes you have the "generic" chinese 5 pin CDI, and that you have "no spark". It leads you through how to test the ignition system with this style CDI with a no spark problem. If these sysptoms don't match your quad then well have to retreat a bit and go different directions...
Is this a picture of your CDI?
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches abd kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
Assuming the answer is yes, the first thing to do is eliminate all kill switches abd kill switch wiring:
Method 1) Unplug the CDI and remove the kill switch pin in the CDI connector on the wiring harness. The pin is held in with a spring tab on the pin itself. You'll have to probe into the connector and push this tab in order to extract the pin. Plug the CDI back in (kill switch wire dangling) and see if you have spark.
Method 2) Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to measure resistance in of the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you have a kill switch/wiring issue.
The other inputs your CDI needs to make spark are AC Ignition Power, and the Trigger signal. Do the following:
1) Unplug the CDI. In the wiring connector measure the resistance of the AC Ignition Power pin to the Ground pin. You should see 400 ohms or so. What do you measure?
2) Measure the resistance of the Timing/trigger pin to the ground pin. You should measure 150 ohms or so. What do you measure?
3) Leave the CDI unplugged. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 100 volt scale. Measure the voltage on the AC Ignition Power pin to the ground pin while cranking the engine. You should see 40 to 80 volts AC while the engine is cranking. What do you measure?
4) Set your meter to measure AC volts on the lowest scale you have. Ideally this would be 2 volts but many meters don't go down this low. In that case use the lowest scale you have. Measure the voltage on the Timing Trigger pin to the Ground pin while cranking the engine. You should 0.2 t0 0.4 volts AC. What do you measure?
Now for measuring the output side of the CDI:
A) Leave the CDI unplugged. In the CDI wiring connector measure the resistance of the Ignition Coil pin to the ground pin. You should measure less than 1 ohm (but not zero ohms). What do you measure?
B) Plug the CDI back in. Set your meter to measure AC volts on the 20 volt scale. Set all kill switches to the run position. Crank the engine while measuring the voltage on the Igntition Coil pin to ground. Poke through the insulation of the wire if you can't probe the connector.
Caution: There should be moderately high voltage spikes on this wire. Make sure your fingers are not part of the circuitry. Don't touch the probe lead tips while doing this test.
What you should see is a lot of random numbers with lots of zero values as well. This is because the meter may catch all or part of the spark event voltage, with a lot of nothing in between. Describe what you see.
Note: Using a meter to measure this point produces highly variable results depending on the meter. What you really need is an oscilloscope, but most always a meter is all that is available. We have to do the best we can with what's available. Describe the meter results as accurately as you can - there is information there to chew on....
#3
06-17-2011, 01:50 PM
Listen to Lynn. He helped me not fix my 110. 
Actually, he totally helped me get spark going, but my problem is compression. You might want to do a quick test of that while you are checking for spark with the plug out. If you have a compression tester then use it. Otherwise you can at least use your thumb over the spark plug hole. If it gets forced off while cranking then chances are the compression is at least enough to fire over. After getting good spark and shooting start fluid into my Kazuma 110, I realized it didn't run because it has almost no compression.
Actually, he totally helped me get spark going, but my problem is compression. You might want to do a quick test of that while you are checking for spark with the plug out. If you have a compression tester then use it. Otherwise you can at least use your thumb over the spark plug hole. If it gets forced off while cranking then chances are the compression is at least enough to fire over. After getting good spark and shooting start fluid into my Kazuma 110, I realized it didn't run because it has almost no compression.
#4
06-19-2012, 11:12 PM
Thanks Lynn that information helped. I too have a falcon 110. The thing ran fine up until a couple days ago.. finally got a chancet to work on it. I thought it was a carb issue.. since it has been in the past. Took that apart and cleaned it over. put it back together still nothing. Checke the plug and no spark. Got online and found a thread on here about taking the cutoff switch wire out. First I saw that the connector to the CDI was dirty so I shot it with some Brake cleaner...and got spark. Put the plug back in got it going then it shut off. Again no spark. So I cleaned it up again unplugged and replugged the conector... Spark... put the seat back on and it shuts off. So.. at this point Im thinking the connection is just not tight. So I took the pinson the CDI and gave them an ever so slight angle so it should make good connection. Got it going ran it around the yard... shut if off for a few minutes then went to crank it and then no spark... So I unplugged the connector and reconnected it... nothing. So I slightly twisted the pins the other direction... Got spark. ran it fine for about 30 minutes...sometimes on idle... parked it. Went to crank it about 5 min later... nothing...
SO... Does it sound like a CDI issue that needs to be replaced. Or could I have a gremlin screwing with me. Thanks for your help.
Bart
SO... Does it sound like a CDI issue that needs to be replaced. Or could I have a gremlin screwing with me. Thanks for your help.
Bart
#5
06-20-2012, 11:43 PM
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I think it sounds like bad connections since you can always get it to work by wiggling things.
It this a five pin CDI? Can you remove all the wire pins from the harness connector and test them by wiring them direct without the plastic housing? The you can wiggle each wire individually without disturbing the neighboring wires. If you can get it down to an individual wire then you're most of the way there.
The female pin "squeaze" part of the connector may be expanded out and loose (use pliers to squeaze it back til it grabs tightly). Or the copper wire inside the insulation may be broken right at the crimp joint where the wire jacket is grabbed by the female pin. But in either case you will be able to isolate down to an individual pin.
It this a five pin CDI? Can you remove all the wire pins from the harness connector and test them by wiring them direct without the plastic housing? The you can wiggle each wire individually without disturbing the neighboring wires. If you can get it down to an individual wire then you're most of the way there.
The female pin "squeaze" part of the connector may be expanded out and loose (use pliers to squeaze it back til it grabs tightly). Or the copper wire inside the insulation may be broken right at the crimp joint where the wire jacket is grabbed by the female pin. But in either case you will be able to isolate down to an individual pin.
#6
06-21-2012, 09:43 AM
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