Hello guys, i just picked up a little chinese atv for my son for 30 bucks but it is in dire need of electrical work and i'm hoping some of you experts can help me out.

I'll start out with what i have and then with what i don't have. i have a full harness but some wires are cut, spliced, and have butt connectors at the end with none of them labeled. I have the remote sensor connected, cdi connected, and starter solenoid connected.

What i don't have is, on the left switch housing the off/run switch is missing, i just have the crank button and lights switches. there is a black and white wire coming out of it that is cut. but the rest plugged right in into another connector. quad has no lights.

I've downloaded the wiring diagram for it but none of the colors match up so it makes it very difficult to follow.

I need help figuring out a way to wire up a simple diagram where only the essentials are needed.
I have a left brake switch but have no idea what wires go to it.
I have a kill switch with lanyard but i have no idea where it gets wired into. Can i just bypass these somehow?
-On the stator there are 4 wires coming out that i connected to another connector but there is a single green wire that coming from the stator as well, where does that connect to? The cdi is a 5 wire, it has a green wire that according to a diagram is the ground wire, does that wire maybe get connected to the green wire coming from the stator?
-On the ignition coil there is a single black wire that is cut, what does that connect to?

Iwant to be able to wire up a simple starting diagram without the left brake switch, key, kill switch and off/run switch if possible, if not what swicthes should i buy and where should i wire them to.

I really hope you guys can shed some light and point me in the right direction to get this thing running, my boy asks me everyday if i'm gonna fix his 4 wheeler so he can ride it (he's 3) and i keep telling him that i'm trying to fix it.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

I would suggest breaking this down into smaller tasks, then tackling them one at a time. That way you can concentrate on a smaller set of problems, fix those, and then move on to the next set. Divide and Conquer...

If it were me I would break it down into these smaller tasks:

1) Get the starter motor cranking with the start button.
2) Get spark at the plug
3) Get the engine running.
4) Check (and fix if necessary) the battery charging system.
5) Fix any ancillary stuff such as lights, horn, indicator lights, remote control system, etc.

To answer your specific questions:

I'd put this off until later. It is not necessary to get the quad running except for the starter interlock stuff. But we can bypass that interlock for now and fix it later.

Yes, unplug it. Not the lanyard pull plug, but the wires going to the switch. When the lanyard plug is yanked off, the two wires going to the switch are shorted together which kills the spark. Leaving the wires open (hanging free or disconnected) enables spark.

Green is ground. If you use an ohmmeter you'll probably find that the green wire is already grounded to the engine inside the stator. The ground wire at the CDI (also green) must be grounded too. If it isn't, then run a new ground wire from the CDI to the stator ground wire.

There are three wires to the ignition coil:

1) Output drive from the CDI
2) Ground
3) High voltage spark plug wire

Look for the wire that goes to the CDI Ouput pin. What is it's color? Find the same color wire at the ignition coil. If it is not black then your black wire must be ground.

To get the starter motor turning look at this recent thread. It has a lot of info on how the starter system works:

http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...n-starter.html

Also make sure the PO did not hack out the fuse coming off the battery. Wiring a quad without a fuse is dangerous. A short on the battery can melt a wiring harness in a hurry and start a fire. Also make sure the fuse value is 7 to 10 amps. If you have no fuse you need to install one.

 

Wow, thanks a lot, this will definitely help me in the right direction. i appreciate the time you took to reply. today i'll work on getting it to crank with the crank switch, but without having a off/run switch i'll need to find the wires that were for that switch and short them together correct?

 

Welcome to the forum Gonzo'ss!

Im so glad Lynn saw this...

 

Thank you, and yes i am glad he saw this too, he sounds like quite the electrical expert!

 

Which Off/Run switch are you talking about? The ignition switch? Or the left handlebar Kill Switch?

The ignition switch needs to be on to get 12 volts to activate the starter solenoid (making the starter motor turn).

The left handlebar kill switch needs to be open. When you set the switch int the "run" position the two wires to the switch are disconnected (enabling spark). When the switch is set to the "off" position the two wires are shorted together (killing spark).

 

Yes i was talking about the switch that goes on the left handlebar light housing that you flip to run to be able to crank. So with no switch on there it shouldn't be a problem for now since no switch enables spark? gotcha!

As far as the ignition switch there isn't one, no key switch. But there is a plug with a key ring running through it that's plugged into the wiring and all that plug has is 2 wires on it that loop right back into itself. i'm guessing that's to replace the ignition switch and not have the need for a key??

Again thanks for taking the time to reply with help.

 

Real sharp... Id be content knowing what he has forgotten..

 

Yes, that is correct.

Sounds like the ignition switch has been bypassed, but *two* looped back wires? That doesn't sound right. Two of the wires on the four pin ignition switch connector are yet another kill switch (ground and another connection to the kill switch wiring). When the ignition switch is on these two wires must be open just like the lanyard kill switch, and just like the handlebar kill switch. Otherwise you won't get spark when you crank the engine. When the ignition switch is turned *off* these two wires get shorted together. This is what kills the engine when the switch is turned off.

Just to be sure that this "looped back" modification really is the ignition switch connector, what are the wire colors in the wiring harness that feed this connector?

 

Ok, the looped back wires were for the crank switch, it would go in one end, loop and come right back out, but that's not a worry anymore since i wired up the ignition the way you described in that recent thread with "plan B" and it now cranks with the crank switch The other looped wire is just the cdi output wire going into this connector looping back and going to the ignition coil, so really just making for a really long wire.

Everything is looking good, got the ignition wired up with a toggle switch after the battery fuse, and cranking with it's own crank switch.

-Out of the 5 wires coming off the cdi box, ive got the ac ignition black/red wire connected to the black/red wire going to the stator.
-The yellow/baby blue ignition coil wire connected to the ignition coil.
-The Blue/white timing trigger wire connected to the stator.
-The gray kill switch wire just hanging out of the cdi box. is that ok?, i'll need to ground this to shut it off when running correct?
-And lastly the green wire to ground.

Now my last dilemma in the wiring is the voltage regulator... it has 4 wires coming out of it's connector. A black,green,white, yellow wire... the white wire and yellow wire are both going to the stator. the green wire i assumed was for ground so i connected it to the green wire coming off the ignition coil with the existing butt splices.

This now leaves me with the black wire which i have absolutely no idea what to do with it. do you have any idea? once i get this wire connected i'll be cranking and checking for spark.

Thanks