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Buyang Fa-c70 wiring.

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  #11  
Old 07-08-2011, 04:36 PM
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After some thought, is the voltage regulator only needed if I'm gonna be using lights? The quad has no lights installed whatsoever btw.
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 04:43 PM
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Pretty sure it keeps the battery from getting fried too...
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mywifesquad
Pretty sure it keeps the battery from getting fried too...
Hmm but there's nothing on the voltage regulator running back to the battery, the way it's wired up right now the battery is only being used to crank the starter. My daughters kasea is a kick start with no lights and no voltage regulator. Does that mystery black wire off the voltage reg. go back to the battery maybe??
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:26 PM
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Woo hoo, we got spark!! took the spark plug off and held it to the frame and cranked and cranked and no spark, then i accidentally touched my knuckle on the frame and spark plug and shocked myself while i was cranking and all of a sudden it got spark from there on hahaha. I'm gonna go get some gas and see if it'll turn over! i was getting spark without the voltage regulator hooked up so i just took it off.

Thanks for all the help Lynn!!

BTW, what spark plug and gap would you recommend for this little chinese 72cc?
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:13 PM
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Well i got it to run so i'm content for only having spent 30 bucks on it. It runs but not well, i have to get it started by spraying a couple mists of starting fluid in the intake, then i have to keep messing with the throttle to keep it running, too much throttle and it'll start to die, too little throttle and it'll start to die, steady throttle and it'll start to die, i have to keep pulsing the throttle between 1/4 to 1/2 throttle to keep it running. The PO had it sitting in a shed for a really really long time and when i brought it home it had about a 1/4 tank of gas so I suppose tomorrow i can remove the carb and see about cleaning it, hopefully i don't mess anything up.

I just read online that these things require high octane pump gas, do you think it really matters that i used some 87 octane that i had in the garage that's about a month old??

Thanks again in advance.
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:37 PM
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Good Deal on getting it running... sounds like the carb needs cleaning now..keep carb cleaner away from any thing made of rubber... if not you will need a new rubber part.

NGK C7HSA plug.... gap about .028

Today's gas is pretty bad but mine run on gas that's 2-3 mos old..
 
  #17  
Old 07-09-2011, 12:51 AM
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My comments embedded in blue...

Originally Posted by Gonzo'ss
Ok, the looped back wires were for the crank switch, it would go in one end, loop and come right back out, but that's not a worry anymore since i wired up the ignition the way you described in that recent thread with "plan B" and it now cranks with the crank switch [sounds like real progress...] The other looped wire is just the cdi output wire going into this connector looping back and going to the ignition coil, so really just making for a really long wire.

Everything is looking good, got the ignition wired up with a toggle switch after the battery fuse, and cranking with it's own crank switch.

-Out of the 5 wires coming off the cdi box, ive got the ac ignition black/red wire connected to the black/red wire going to the stator.
-The yellow/baby blue ignition coil wire connected to the ignition coil.
-The Blue/white timing trigger wire connected to the stator.
-The gray kill switch wire just hanging out of the cdi box. is that ok?, i'll need to ground this to shut it off when running correct? [Yes, but be carefull. The pin on the CDI (and any attached hanging wire) has high voltage on it whenever the engine is turning (and the faster the engine is turning the higher the voltage - up to a couple hundred volts). A better plan is to remove that hanging wire off the CDI and connected it instead to a good solid ground. When you get around to shorting the CDI kill pin to ground (thus killing the engine), you don't risk a nasty shock since you will be holding on to a wire that is solidly grounded - as compared to holding on to an electrically *hot* wire about to be grounded. Still, when killing the engine with the solidly grounded wire I would still use insulated pliers to ground the CDI pin. That way you are double protected. The voltage on the kill switch can be dangerously high and should not be taken lightly.]
-And lastly the green wire to ground.

Now my last dilemma in the wiring is the voltage regulator... it has 4 wires coming out of it's connector. A black,green,white, yellow wire... the white wire and yellow wire are both going to the stator. the green wire i assumed was for ground so i connected it to the green wire coming off the ignition coil with the existing butt splices.

This now leaves me with the black wire which i have absolutely no idea what to do with it. do you have any idea? once i get this wire connected i'll be cranking and checking for spark. [The black wire is the regulated DC voltage out of the regulator. It should be connected to the switched 12 volts output side of the ignition switch (most likely also a black wire). When the engine is running the voltage regulator output is 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts DC, which pulls up the battery voltage from 12.6 volts. This causes current to flow backward into the battery which charges it up. Lead Acid batteries are really easy in this regard. All you have to do is apply a slightly raised voltage and they will charge themselves up on their own. If the battery is discharged it will draw a lot of charge current, if the battery is fully charged it will draw hardly any current.]

Thanks
 
  #18  
Old 07-09-2011, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Gonzo'ss
Hmm but there's nothing on the voltage regulator running back to the battery, the way it's wired up right now the battery is only being used to crank the starter. My daughters kasea is a kick start with no lights and no voltage regulator. Does that mystery black wire off the voltage reg. go back to the battery maybe??
Yes, the voltage regulator is not needed if you don't have a battery to charge back up, or lights to run.

Don't run the black wire directly to the battery. Run it to the output side of the switched 12 volt part of the ignition switch. That way if anything goes wrong in the regulator it is fused for fire safety, and switched off with the ignition switch as well.
 
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Gonzo'ss
Woo hoo, we got spark!! took the spark plug off and held it to the frame and cranked and cranked and no spark, then i accidentally touched my knuckle on the frame and spark plug and shocked myself while i was cranking and all of a sudden it got spark from there on hahaha. I'm gonna go get some gas and see if it'll turn over! i was getting spark without the voltage regulator hooked up so i just took it off.

Thanks for all the help Lynn!!

BTW, what spark plug and gap would you recommend for this little chinese 72cc?
You're making incredible progress! I must say that I thought this would be a slow step by step process, but you seem to handling multiple problems on multiple fronts at the same time. I'm very much impressed ...
 
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