eTon Viper 150 electric problem
#1
eTon Viper 150 electric problem
I am having a problem with my eton viper 150 ATV.
When i turn the key the fuse on the atv blows every time and sometimes when i get it to turn on it will run until i get off it then when i put the key back and and power it on it blows the fuse, i thought the problem at first was the relay starter but that didn't help much when it kept blowing. i have put about 8 fuses into this and they have all blown. If i turn on the lights it also blows and sometimes if i put it in reverse..... PLEASE HELP
When i turn the key the fuse on the atv blows every time and sometimes when i get it to turn on it will run until i get off it then when i put the key back and and power it on it blows the fuse, i thought the problem at first was the relay starter but that didn't help much when it kept blowing. i have put about 8 fuses into this and they have all blown. If i turn on the lights it also blows and sometimes if i put it in reverse..... PLEASE HELP
#3
When i am starting up the 90cc it starts up fine but when i throttle it and just shuts down and last night i was riding on it and it worked fine. what do you think happened on the small one ?
is the carburetor clogged like the jets ? and on the eton viper 150 im not risking turning the key because i dont want another fuse to break lol
#6
What size is the fuse?
Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.
I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?
Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.
I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?
#7
What size is the fuse?
Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.
I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?
Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.
I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?
and the regulator is the electric source with 5 wires coming out right and it indof looks like a grill ? and i unplugg it then try starting my atv with the fuse in it ?
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#8
What size is the fuse?
Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.
I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?
Try unplugging the regulator and see if it stops blowing the fuse. You can run without the regulator for long enough to test this. If it stops the fuse blowing then your regulator is bad.
I've not heard of a 150cc viper. Are you sure it is not a 50cc viper?
#9
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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The size is important. Look with a magnifying glass on the fuse and report back all the writing that you see on the fuse ends. If you have a fuse that is too low of a value (like 3 amps, for example) it will be blowing all the time. For a 150cc quad I would guess that it would need something in the neighborhood of ten amps.
Five pin voltage regulators do have heat sink fins on them. Do a google search for "atv 5 pin regulators" and thumb through the pictures to see if anything looks like your regulator.
Yes, unplug it and see if the fuse stops blowing (after you look carefully at the fuse and report all the writing on the fuse ends).
My thinking is like this: If you have the right value fuse installed (something like 10 amps), then to blow this fuse you would have to draw more then 10 amps. Ten amps at 12 volts = 120 watts of power. That's a lot. If you have a single component failure somewhere that is drawing 10 amps it will be smoking and emitting flames. You didn't report that.
Therefore whatever is dissipating that 120 watts of power must be physically big so that it can take that kind of power and not get hot instantly. I'm thinking that if the voltage regulator rectifier diodes inside were shorted, everytime you turn on the ignition the battery would be connected to the stator windings. They're big and would draw a lot of current - maybe and maybe not enough to blow the fuse. But if you applied an additional load (lights, starter solenoid, etc) it would certainly blow the fuse.
Your fuse doesn't blow instantly, and all the time when you turn on the ignition. That eliminates direct shorts to ground (such as a power wire that is pinched under a screw head.) If this were the case the fuse would go off like a camera flash bulb. Instantly and every time.
And once again, if you are putting in the wrong fuse (too low a value) then the fuse should blow. Make sure your fuse is around 10 amps. Whatever you do, *DO NOT* install a big fuse like 30 amps to see what will happen. You might end up with a melted wiring harness and maybe start a fire besides.
Yes, unplug it and see if the fuse stops blowing (after you look carefully at the fuse and report all the writing on the fuse ends).
My thinking is like this: If you have the right value fuse installed (something like 10 amps), then to blow this fuse you would have to draw more then 10 amps. Ten amps at 12 volts = 120 watts of power. That's a lot. If you have a single component failure somewhere that is drawing 10 amps it will be smoking and emitting flames. You didn't report that.
Therefore whatever is dissipating that 120 watts of power must be physically big so that it can take that kind of power and not get hot instantly. I'm thinking that if the voltage regulator rectifier diodes inside were shorted, everytime you turn on the ignition the battery would be connected to the stator windings. They're big and would draw a lot of current - maybe and maybe not enough to blow the fuse. But if you applied an additional load (lights, starter solenoid, etc) it would certainly blow the fuse.
Your fuse doesn't blow instantly, and all the time when you turn on the ignition. That eliminates direct shorts to ground (such as a power wire that is pinched under a screw head.) If this were the case the fuse would go off like a camera flash bulb. Instantly and every time.
And once again, if you are putting in the wrong fuse (too low a value) then the fuse should blow. Make sure your fuse is around 10 amps. Whatever you do, *DO NOT* install a big fuse like 30 amps to see what will happen. You might end up with a melted wiring harness and maybe start a fire besides.