stripped nut... how to remove
#1
stripped nut... how to remove
so on my hensim 150cc while i was trying to remove rim and tire i stripped one of the four nuts thats hold the rim onto the axle. i cant remove this one nut witch is a real pain. does anyone know how to remove the stripped nut? i would use chanellox but the tire gets in the way. i need to remove the tire in order to bring it to gas station to use there compressor to fill up the tire and hopefully rebead the tire again it worked last week but the air leaked out again so im going to try some bead lock on it this time.
#2
#3
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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Its not entirely clear to me what is stripped. Is it the threads on the stud, or is the hex nut outside perimeter?
Let's assume it is the the nut perimeter outline that is stripped. Here's what I would do:
Get a complete socket set (metric and english) and find a socket that is close to fitting, but is just a *little* too small to go onto the stripped hex nut. Make sure you are looking at 12 point sockets and not six sided sockets. Twelve point sockets have a sort of internal teeth set...
Go buy the cheapest, sleaziest socket of that size you can find of that size. Get deep well if you need the reach. What you are looking for a a socket that isn't hardened very well, and will deform under duress.
Check the fit and determine if the "too small" socket can be pounded onto the nut with a sledge hammer. If it looks like it is too tough (too much interference) then grind down the inside of the socket with a grinding bit in the moto-dremel tool jgar was recommending. Everyone should have a moto dremel grinder. It's got to be one of the most versatile tools ever invented.
When you get the socket to be close to fitting but it still isn't going to go on without tons of pressure, then pound it onto the nut with a sledge hammer (use a hunk of steel rod to bridge the gap between the socket in the wheel well and the sledge hammer if necessary).
After many hammer blows, and when the cheap socket is good and cold welded onto the nut, then get a ratchet and screw the nut off. The nut and socket will both be toast because they are welded together. Throw them both away and buy another nut.
Let's assume it is the the nut perimeter outline that is stripped. Here's what I would do:
Get a complete socket set (metric and english) and find a socket that is close to fitting, but is just a *little* too small to go onto the stripped hex nut. Make sure you are looking at 12 point sockets and not six sided sockets. Twelve point sockets have a sort of internal teeth set...
Go buy the cheapest, sleaziest socket of that size you can find of that size. Get deep well if you need the reach. What you are looking for a a socket that isn't hardened very well, and will deform under duress.
Check the fit and determine if the "too small" socket can be pounded onto the nut with a sledge hammer. If it looks like it is too tough (too much interference) then grind down the inside of the socket with a grinding bit in the moto-dremel tool jgar was recommending. Everyone should have a moto dremel grinder. It's got to be one of the most versatile tools ever invented.
When you get the socket to be close to fitting but it still isn't going to go on without tons of pressure, then pound it onto the nut with a sledge hammer (use a hunk of steel rod to bridge the gap between the socket in the wheel well and the sledge hammer if necessary).
After many hammer blows, and when the cheap socket is good and cold welded onto the nut, then get a ratchet and screw the nut off. The nut and socket will both be toast because they are welded together. Throw them both away and buy another nut.
#4
as stated earlier: hammer the cheap socket on to the nut, use a dremel tool and just replace the stud and nut, or get a "gator grip" socket.
Endeavor Tool - Gator Grip Universal Socket
Endeavor Tool - Gator Grip Universal Socket
#5
like stated above-
is it the nut (socket spins around the nut) or the stud (splines spin in the hub when you turn the nut) that's stripped?
if it's the stud- you'll need to drill it out, if it's the nut- follow the advice given above or buy a nut breaker (if you can get one on there)- they do sell smaller nut breakers that you might be able to get in there if you have a few inches-
is it the nut (socket spins around the nut) or the stud (splines spin in the hub when you turn the nut) that's stripped?
if it's the stud- you'll need to drill it out, if it's the nut- follow the advice given above or buy a nut breaker (if you can get one on there)- they do sell smaller nut breakers that you might be able to get in there if you have a few inches-
#6
like stated above-
is it the nut (socket spins around the nut) or the stud (splines spin in the hub when you turn the nut) that's stripped?
if it's the stud- you'll need to drill it out, if it's the nut- follow the advice given above or buy a nut breaker (if you can get one on there)- they do sell smaller nut breakers that you might be able to get in there if you have a few inches-
is it the nut (socket spins around the nut) or the stud (splines spin in the hub when you turn the nut) that's stripped?
if it's the stud- you'll need to drill it out, if it's the nut- follow the advice given above or buy a nut breaker (if you can get one on there)- they do sell smaller nut breakers that you might be able to get in there if you have a few inches-
#7
you can find them at those online tool places like northerntool / harbor freight and local auto parts stores... I've used'em to crack grade 5 nuts- not sure how well it would crack a anything above grade 5- might be a bit tough- but most atv's don't have any high grade steel hardware anyway.
I have a small nut breaker- about 3" long. It works nice either to grip & turn a rounded nut or to crack it completely off.
(ok- let the jokes begin )
I have a small nut breaker- about 3" long. It works nice either to grip & turn a rounded nut or to crack it completely off.
(ok- let the jokes begin )
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#8
thank you for the responses its the nut thats stripped im going to either use a dremel or pound a socket onto the nut witha sledge hammer. once the tires off can i use one of those inflator and bead sealer bottles u see in stores to seal the leak it keeps getting along the bead but will the can be able to have another pressure to pop the bead back on? I used an air compressor to get the bead on. and once i take the nuts off can i go to home depot and buy better grade nuts that wont strip?
#10