As the title I have no spark at my atv.. I belive it is a yamoto. I know for sure it is a lonchin engine 110cc. "halfautomatic" and el start.

the question is how to get this one spark the easiest way. in first i dont need any kill switches, they have to come after i get spark..

the preaviously owner gave it up as he couldnt get spark, and now its my turn to try.

He bought a new cdi and magneto stator without luck. I dont even know if he has accuired the right parts.

It is a 5 pin cdi and a magneto stator w\ 5 wires. yellow, white\blue, white, green and black\red.

I have no idea whitch wire goes were exept green is ground.

Is there someone who could be so kind and help me with this project?

heres a pic of magneto stator and cdi

 

You have classic colors at the stator:

Green: ground
Blu/White: Timing Trigger
Black/Red: AC Ignition power
Green: ground (you correctly figured this out already)

White and Yellow wires: Battery charge wires to the voltage regulator. Ignore these for now since they have nothing to do with spark. Later if your battery doesn't keep charged with a running engine we can revisit these wires...

Why do you say you have no idea where thes wires go? Are they disconnected?

Here is the wiring for a 5 pin CDI. This will tell you how the Ground. Trigger and AC Ignition power wires connect up.



Yes you do need kill switches (at least one anyway). If the quad starts you need to shut it down somehow. 5 pin CDI's run off AC power from the stator, which will delever the required power as long as the engine is running. If you don't have a kill connection the quad will continue running even if you unbolt the battery and remove it.

Is you CDI connector wired up with all the wires, or are they disconnected too?

 

Thanks for replay lynn. I have come a bit further with my "wirethinking". the blue\white is trigger signal for the cdi. I assume the wire goes in the upper left corner) the black\red is constant power to cdi, whitch goes into "ac ignition power" (lower right corner). can i earth both green wires from cdi and magneto stator in the frame? the black\yellow from cdi (upper right) to ignition coil. the coil is grounded with the bolts directly in frame, and dont need wire ground, right?

the cdi is not connected to the harness.

I understand that I need a kill switch for turning of the engine, but that I can wire up a switch on the black\yellow wire that goes to coil, after i get spark.

is the 5 pin cdi always wired as the picture above? probably stupid question,but are you shure that I have ac volts?

do the middle pin at the bottom need ground or something for determine spark?

thanks in advance

 

Correct on both counts.

This is not a good idea. The stator green wire is already grounded to the engine at the stator. The timing trigger signal is generated at the stator and referenced to engine ground at that point. You should run a ground wire from the stator to the CDI. That way the CDI is fed a trigger signal referenced to engine ground at the stator, and the CDI is now referenced to the same ground. Remember this is a relatively low voltage signal in a sea of electrical noise sources. This wiring scheme gives the best noise immunity to a critical timing signal. If you hook it up as you propose (grounding the CDI to engine ground near the CDI) it may or it may not work well - depending on the rest of the wiring and how it it configured.

This too is a bad idea. Shorting the ignition coil output from the CDI will certainly kill the spark, but this is like turning off your stereo by shorting out the speaker wires. Yikes...

This puts a lot of strain on the CDI, and isn't that good for the switch either. When you turn off the quad this way enormous currents flow while the CDI storage capacitor (the "C" in the "CDI" acronym) dumps all of its energy unrestrained into the switch contacts, and through the CDI output switching transistor. This is really bad design practice.

What is wrong with using the kill switch input to the CDI? You ground that pin with a switch (just like you propose to do with the CDI output) to kill spark. When you ground the kill switch input the spark is killed without drawing enormous current pulses across the switch contacts, and doesn't strain anything else inside the CDI. That's why the original designers at Honda (which was later copied by the chinese) put the kill switch pin there in the first place...

I have never seen a 5 pin CDI like the one pictured earlier that was powered by anything other than moderately high voltage AC from the stator.

 

first of all thanx for a very good and informative answer I will give the wiring as you proposed a try this evening, and we`ll se if its works.

I see your point with shorting the signal before cdi or in the kill switch connection in the cdi, and i will do it in the middle lower pin in the cdi, no reason to think I`m smarter than Honda engineers

I dont have the plastic plug with wires that goes in the cdi, but can I wire them up like the cdi above? mine cdi has a white connector pin instead of green as the picture above if that important.

 

Connector color is unimportant.

You can just solder the wires directly to the CDI pins. Those pins go to a Printer Circuit Board (PCB) buried down in the black potting compound, so you want to be quick and clean when soldering the wires to the pins. You don't want to heat things up to the point that the solder connection down at the PCB also melts. This caution only applies to someone with *really* ham-handed soldering skills though. The PCB is all the way down at the bottom of the potting cup, with the components facing up toward the connector, so the connector pins are over an inch long. If you can solder each wire onto the corresponding CDI pin in under 10 seconds you will be fine.

 

I have now wired it up as we agreed on, and I get a good spark, the enine runs fine, now I just have to wire up a kill switch. I`m going to use the ignition key to that. Can I connect one wire to the center pin in the cdi, and ground the other wire?.

For getting spark I had to get a new cdi, with green connector and I wired it up as shown above, I guess the old one was bad.

all in all a great evening in the garage

 

Awesome.

 

Yes, but remember that to *kill* the engine you need the switch to short that wire to ground when the ignition switch is turned *off*. This is backwards to the other ignition switch stuff which normally applies power through a switch wire pair that gets hooked up (shorted together) when the ignition is turned *on*.

Generic chinese ignition switches have four wires, and two separate switches in them ganged together on a common shaft. The two switches operate as described above. The kill switch side (the two wires that are shorted together when the ignition switch is turned off) are usually black/white and green. Use a meter to verify which wires they really are on your specific switch.

 

Hello,
I have a ATV, brand nmae is AEON COBRA2-R100.
I just noticed recently that my battery ran down, and can not anymore use teh electric starter to fire up the engine. After series of checkings with multimeter, I noticed that the output of the rectifier/regulator (red wire then hooked to the battery terminal with a fues), only reads 6.8 volts, my battery is 12 volts. The plug and socket for the rectifier and the one from the generator side was intact, no loose connection. Where can be the problem? is it on the ac generator itself which gave me a reading of about for only 6 volts? or the rectifier?. Parts here in Kuwait are scarce, so before I will order one if a defective part is sure, I will first check the suspected parts. Thanks in advance. By the way, my ac generator wirings are WHT-Red, BLK-Red, WHT , Y-R, BLACK. (5 wires).