This new information puts us in a whole new direction.

The way the starter is engaged is by applying 12 volts to the the two small wires on the solenoid. You've all ready demonstrated that your solenoid is getting 12 volts because when you disonnect those two small wires the starter doesn't turn. But on 110cc quads this 12 volts is supposed to come to the solenoid through (in sequence):

1) the fuse
2) the ignition switch
3) The brake switch
4) the start button

But when you turn on the ignition switch and the solenoid gets 12 volts around both the brake switch, and the start button. And you unplug the start button and it still gets 12 volts.

Do you have a remote start/stop module? This is a device that allows a parent to remotely start/stop a quad via a radio link key fob. If one of these is installed it does have the ability (in certain failure modes) to bypass both the brake and the start button switches. Did you buy this quad used? It may have the remote module installed even if they didn't give you the key fob. Look for a black box a little smaller than the CDI with a dangling 6 inch long wire hanging out of it. That would be the receive antenna (kind of like the dangling antenna wire on a garage door opener receiver inside the garage). Since remote modules are sometimes 'remote start/stop/alarm' modules it may be tucked up under the gas tank, or under the seat. Hidden, in other words. Usually these modules have a nine pin slot connector (3 x 3 square form factor) which 5 to 8 wire slots filled up depending on how many functions your remote module has.

That seems the most likely scenario at the moment. If you find a remote module then just unplug it, and see if that solves you starter motor problem. In the mean time I'll be thinking about this very strange problem....

 

I unplugged the remote module and I think that fixed it. I tried it this morning as I was heading out and it was acting as it should. The key no longer triggered it to try to start. It was back to pressing the starter button on the handle bar.

Thanks for working with me through the issue.

Jason

 

OK so I got home and tried to get it running and it looks like problem A has now created problem B. So it is functioning corretly as far as hitting the starter button to get it to try to turn over. I no longer need to apply the brakes to get it to start however. No a big deal but just pointing out a difference.

So instead of firing up as it was doing before, now it just wants to keep turning and turning but it wont start up. It is almost acting like it would if you hit the kill switch on the handle bar, but I checked that and it is in the correct position down.

Any ideas now?

Jason

 

Also if its worth noting the lights dont work now either.

 

This is big progress... It's a major leap forward from my perspective. Now a strange, troubling, perplexing problem has turned into a more generic common problem. Let's hope it gets easier from here... .

 

So do you have spark? Do you know how to check this? You remove the spark plug, connect the high tension lead back up, and hold the plug threads against the engine block while cranking the engine. Do this with the ignition switch "on" and all kill switches set to the "run" position. Do you see spark jumping across the spark plug gap?

As far a the brake switch goes, turn on the ignition and look at the brake light. Is it on? Then the starter motor will crank. If it is off then the start motor shouldn't crank. Sometimes switches get stuck in the on position. Use the brake light (illuminated or not) to tell whether you switch is stuck on or not. This test is not as important as the 'no spark' test above. We can always revisit this problem later once you have spark and the quad runs...

Assuming you have a no spark problem, how many pins on your CDI? 4 pins (DC powered), or 5 pins (AC powered)? The troubleshooting procedure is different for each of these possibilities.

 

So the starter cranks, but there are no lights. And the starter cranks witout the brake switch. Weird.

Let's look into the no spark problem first. First lets find out what CDI you have (report back per above post), then based on which you have do some ignition system tests with a meter. That will give more clues to work with....

 

Alright it looks like the spark plug was the culprit. I replaced it and now I have spark and the quad is running again. The brake now does need to be applied to get it to start and the lights are working again. Not sure how those two things fixed themselved, but they did. There was a wad full of ground wires connected together with solder so I cut it and rewired it. I wanted to make sure there wasnt a bad ground with one of the wires.

Problem 1. There are a few things still troubling to me however. The key when turned on works as normal for starting. When you go to turn the key off when its running it does nothing. You have to hit the kill switch on the handle bar to get it off now.

Problem 2. The gas tank (brand new just installed before all these other problems) seems to be leaking gas somewhere towards the top. Its not a drip like when its sitting. Example its been in the garage for a few hours now and there isnt a drop on the ground. The problem happened after my son rode it for a while and then we parked it. I noticed there was gas on the outside of the tank and some had dropped down onto the motor. And that is causing it to smoke.

Problem 3. There is a vent valve?? on top of the motor that send hot air from the engine out through a heater hose type. I have noticed that it smokes coming from there a little bit. Maybe more so when warming up, but the reason I mention it is because I dont recall it doing that when I bought it.

I know thats a lot to add to my issues. The quad it running now, but I'll have to determing the gas leak issue for safety reasons obviously. I can probably deal with the other things. Thanks for all the support and getting my son back on the trails.

Jason

 

My comments in blue:

 

Check this link for more info on remote wiring. What you need to do is restore the connection in the diagram where it says "cut". Then your ignition switch will stop the engine as before:

http://forums.atvconnection.com/chin...-shut-off.html

If the wire colors on your remote connector don't match the diagram then match the pin positions in the nine slot connector to find whcih wires you need to jumper. But before you do this make sure your quad has a working installed fuse of no more than 7 amps. That way if you short the wrong wires the worst that will happen is you blow the fuse.