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Coolster 3125-XR8 carb issue?? New.

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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #61  
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Bummer!!
sorry to hear about the carb. I will however dig into the timing. You say the bogging is gome 100%, and your plug is white/lean. Thats well worth the trouble.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #62  
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yeah, it sucks.. Tbolt cant tell me that any of their manifolds will work.. they are designed for pitbikes that have kickstart, not e start, so it is a gamble if I buy one

with the restocking fee and shipping I would be out at least half the money if I send the carb back, so its probably not worth it, and I cant find flanges to make my own, so I will have to make the flanges too and that is a p.i.a.

now I wish I had gotten the bigger carb after all - I could just toss it on my dirtbike and for the quad I would just drill the pilot and replace the main like you guys are doing
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #63  
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There is one option i have seen. On ebay, go figure, there is an adapter that looks to asentric by nature. I cant fully tell, but it should be set up to offset the carb for clearance issues like yours.

I just looked at my timing, and from your discription, it looks to be one tooth advanced. In other words, with the "T" showing through the view hole, the dot on the gear is closer to the 11 oclock position, but not that extream.
Is this worth messing with?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #64  
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Just noticed a line to the left of the T. There is also an F with the same line. Did you notice these?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:25 PM
  #65  
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Ok, totally messes with time settings. One tooth either way took the timing mark way past the case marking. So now it is back where it started, and I am still happy with the results.

To bring things together alittle;
-Check the timimg first.
-unlock the carb and resize the jets..Or a new carb
-Then go for after market parts.

The timing was not too hard to mess with, just look for the timing marks, and case markings.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:14 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by OldMan40
Just noticed a line to the left of the T. There is also an F with the same line. Did you notice these?
the line next to the T should be straight up for top dead center, I dont remember what the F indicated, it is some other spot in the timing

all that matters is that it runs good.. no reason to mess with it if it does -
honestly I would never have bought this carb if I had figured out the timing first

I am surprised you found it easy to change.. do you know where the the cam tensioner is? mine had so much tension I had the use a screw driver as a lever to pry the gear back on. Also, did your head have a top dead center mark?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:36 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by OldMan40
There is one option i have seen. On ebay, go figure, there is an adapter that looks to asentric by nature. I cant fully tell, but it should be set up to offset the carb for clearance issues like yours.

I just looked at my timing, and from your discription, it looks to be one tooth advanced. In other words, with the "T" showing through the view hole, the dot on the gear is closer to the 11 oclock position, but not that extream.
Is this worth messing with?
can you post a link to the adapter you are refering to?
is it just the circle thing with a bunch of holes?
that may work if it attaches to the head and will let me run the carb out the side, sorta like a harley, lol

and 11 sounds pretty far off, but if you are happy with how it runs, then that is all that matters
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by High_Boost
the line next to the T should be straight up for top dead center, I dont remember what the F indicated, it is some other spot in the timing

all that matters is that it runs good.. no reason to mess with it if it does -
honestly I would never have bought this carb if I had figured out the timing first

I am surprised you found it easy to change.. do you know where the the cam tensioner is? mine had so much tension I had the use a screw driver as a lever to pry the gear back on. Also, did your head have a top dead center mark?

Thats how I figured. The line to the left of the T was what was visible through the sight hole, right in the center. I did remove the cover and looked very hard, but could not identify a case marking there. Put the cover back on and used the sight hole.

I did find the case marking by the cam gear. "TDC" After removing the cover to expose the gear, I did not see it at first. After awhile of looking around, I found it at the top, more on the inside of the seal mating surface. Just look a little deeper in side the hole.

As far as changing the timing, once I removed the three screws on the cam gear, I put a little pressure on the bottom side without the chain and it popped right off. Moved the chain foward, or back on the gear, then moved the came mounting holes to match. I did not see or find a tensioner of any kind, and I also uses a screwdriver to get the gear back on. I could feel the tension, and I did not feel like I was going to break any thing. I am no longer afraid to change the timimg.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 07:31 PM
  #69  
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here are some better pics with the new carb fitment problems

here you can see if it went in as the stock one did I would have to space it up a good .5"


carb 3 by dkluck1, on Flickr

here the manifold is where it goes, but the carb points out, clearing the starter.. this will probably be the solution.. the only problem is the air filter will be by the boys leg, but thats ok


carb 4 by dkluck1, on Flickr

so I am going to order that multi posistion manifold and cross my fingers
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:46 PM
  #70  
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I got my fingers crossed too, just look it over a few times to be sure. I hope this works out for you.
 
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