Did you try just turning the carb 180 degrees and pointing it forward ? Didn't work for me with the goose necked intakes.

This may interest you:

25MM INTAKE MANIFOLD CRF50 SSR PRO PIT BIKE DIRT BIKES | eBay





This is a 25mm id offset intake. I would check all bolt dimensions but it may cure your too small intake and placement issues. It will also have a smoother flow to the air with a gentle arc vs the abrubt turn around in the goose neck intake you have now.

The adaptor plate :





I ended up using the plate and it works good. Be aware though it will add 12.6 mm or 1/2 inch height to the whole unit and with that goose neck and the angle it may still have a few fit issues.

 

crap.. if only you had posted yesterday
I already ordered the adapter ring + a bigger manifold and with shipping I spent 4.5X as much as the one you linked would have cost me..
oh well

you say you used the adapter ring - what type of quad and carb and jets did you install, and was the outcome worth the trouble?

thanks

 

this is a pic of OldMans drilled exhaust in case anyone else wanted to see it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78121832@N00/7132613417/http://www.flickr.com/photos/78121832@N00/7132613417/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/78121832@N00/, on Flickr

 

Hell ya the outcome was worth the trouble. I had a snorkel type air cleaner that was sucking warm air off the top of the engine block and had no way to add an aftermarket filter to it unless I angled it out front and to the right of the engine. The ring or the intake pictured above would do the job, I found the ring first though.



Application is on a Gio Rebel T1, 110cc. As far as jets go who knows, I used a welders tip cleaner and opened up both jets.

Little known trick with these pz carbs is the removal of the float restrictor tab in the bowl as well. I your bowl has a little bar molded into the bottom of it then it is used to make sure the float does not drop too far. This also does not allow the float to drop down as far as it could to let more fuel into the bowl faster. Again it depends on the carb but the stock ones on these CHONDAS seems to have them, esp the round bowl shaped ones.

PS the guy in the ebay link is a very good shop owner, would recomend him.

 

Please share more about the float restrictor. Can you post a pic of one?

 

First off the adaptor ring.



Muffler Mod.



For the muffler I took off the chromish plate on the end and removed the little tube that was sticking in it. I then drilled out the end the same size as the hole in the chromish cover. That gave me lots of room to get in there and completely drill out the internal baffle plate, reducing it to nothing and shaking out all the little bits. I then cut the aluminum pipe that you see sticking out so that it just cleared the internal baffle and is about an inch away from the inlet pipe to the muffler. I then used JB Weld to attach the aluminum pipe to the chrome plate and bolted it back on. Works like a hot dam and still has some sound deadening due to the one inch gap between the inlet and outlet pipe.

As for the float bow restrictor:





Dremmel out the tab and walla.

 

Both very cool mods!
I do not have a float restictor in my carb.
I just might try out that muffler mod though.
Did that do any thing for power?
thanks for sharing.

 

Not sure what gains I may have gotten as its was one of the first things I did. I do this mod to all my CHONDA stuff right away.

It can't possibly hurt removing all the restrictions to good breathing from the exhaust system though.

 

Well, the next item I want to mess with is valve clearance. Looking around the forums, it looks like .004 is the clearance to shoot for. High Boost, what settings did you use?

I found this video on another page. makes the task look very easy, and answered all questions.

Http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xkxQi_aPuw

 

I found the valve adjustment to be a real P.I.A. I did .004, or .003.. I am not sure it would matter with that small of a differance.

the intake valve is easy, its on top and there is some room to work
the exhaust valve sucks. Besides the fact that it faces the ground and you have to work on your back, the frame on mine was getting in the way.

I put my quad up on stands to do the bottom one, so I could lay under it. If you could turn it up on the side it would be way easier, but then oil and gas will probably spill out.

The video you linked is broken, but all the videos I watched to learn how to do it had the motor out on a bench, that is why they look so easy.