electrical question
#1
I did some measurements with the volt meter as I am in a no start situation with a Kazuma 150cc.
With cd un-plugged
cdi power to ground (red wire) 500 ohms
trigger feed to ground (blue wire) 143 ohms
And yes ignition was on as were all kill switches
now with cd still unplugged but firing engine
82 volts at the red wire
1.1 volts on the blue wire
now with the cd plugged in the yellow wire was only getting 1 to 3 volts to the coil. I also then checked the yellow wire from the cdi to the coil for continuity and it was ok. But when I then hooked the meter directly to the coil end wire it still only read 1 to 3 volts. I had an extra cdi and same results. Lynn if your around maybe some advice or perhaps I need to do something different.
Thanks
Tim
With cd un-plugged
cdi power to ground (red wire) 500 ohms
trigger feed to ground (blue wire) 143 ohms
And yes ignition was on as were all kill switches
now with cd still unplugged but firing engine
82 volts at the red wire
1.1 volts on the blue wire
now with the cd plugged in the yellow wire was only getting 1 to 3 volts to the coil. I also then checked the yellow wire from the cdi to the coil for continuity and it was ok. But when I then hooked the meter directly to the coil end wire it still only read 1 to 3 volts. I had an extra cdi and same results. Lynn if your around maybe some advice or perhaps I need to do something different.
Thanks
Tim
#2
My comments in blue...
I did some measurements with the volt meter as I am in a no start situation with a Kazuma 150cc.
With cd un-plugged
cdi power to ground (red wire) 500 ohms
trigger feed to ground (blue wire) 143 ohms
And yes ignition was on as were all kill switches
now with cd still unplugged but firing engine
82 volts at the red wire
1.1 volts on the blue wire [This is too high. The trigger coil does not put out this kind of voltage. Often too high a voltage on this pin while cranking indicates an open timing trigger signal in the stator, or in the wiring on the way to the CDI. The excess voltage is capacitively (and very weakly) coupled over from the 82 volt AC ignition power which runs in the same harness. But this coupling only can happen if the trigger signal wire is open. If the trigger wire is hooked up to ground then the 140 ohms or so will short out the very weak coupling from the adjacent ignition power wire and leave just the trigger signal. But this conflicts with the 143 ohms you measured. Something doesn't compute here. Please verify those two signals again. Could there be an intermittent? Perhaps it measures one way with the connector unplugged and twisted this way, and measures another with the connector twisted another?]
now with the cd plugged in the yellow wire was only getting 1 to 3 volts to the coil. I also then checked the yellow wire from the cdi to the coil for continuity and it was ok. But when I then hooked the meter directly to the coil end wire it still only read 1 to 3 volts. I had an extra cdi and same results. Lynn if your around maybe some advice or perhaps I need to do something different. [1 to 3 volts isn't right either. Check your grounds. When you did your tests were you always using the ground wire at the CDI connector, or did you take a shortcut and use engine ground? Using the ground at the CDI connector verifies the voltage/resistance being measured though the device/circuit under test *and* the ground return. Using an engine ground can ignore problems with the ground wiring.]
Thanks
Tim
With cd un-plugged
cdi power to ground (red wire) 500 ohms
trigger feed to ground (blue wire) 143 ohms
And yes ignition was on as were all kill switches
now with cd still unplugged but firing engine
82 volts at the red wire
1.1 volts on the blue wire [This is too high. The trigger coil does not put out this kind of voltage. Often too high a voltage on this pin while cranking indicates an open timing trigger signal in the stator, or in the wiring on the way to the CDI. The excess voltage is capacitively (and very weakly) coupled over from the 82 volt AC ignition power which runs in the same harness. But this coupling only can happen if the trigger signal wire is open. If the trigger wire is hooked up to ground then the 140 ohms or so will short out the very weak coupling from the adjacent ignition power wire and leave just the trigger signal. But this conflicts with the 143 ohms you measured. Something doesn't compute here. Please verify those two signals again. Could there be an intermittent? Perhaps it measures one way with the connector unplugged and twisted this way, and measures another with the connector twisted another?]
now with the cd plugged in the yellow wire was only getting 1 to 3 volts to the coil. I also then checked the yellow wire from the cdi to the coil for continuity and it was ok. But when I then hooked the meter directly to the coil end wire it still only read 1 to 3 volts. I had an extra cdi and same results. Lynn if your around maybe some advice or perhaps I need to do something different. [1 to 3 volts isn't right either. Check your grounds. When you did your tests were you always using the ground wire at the CDI connector, or did you take a shortcut and use engine ground? Using the ground at the CDI connector verifies the voltage/resistance being measured though the device/circuit under test *and* the ground return. Using an engine ground can ignore problems with the ground wiring.]
Thanks
Tim
#5
So I looked back to the first post in this thread. I saw several incorrect voltages listed (which have since been measured differently with a new meter). But nowhere do I see it listed that you are *not* getting spark. I assumed so, but it is true? Are you getting spark?
#6
Lynn,
Thanks for your contribution to this forum it is greatly appreciated by many. Today i went out unplugged the kill wire from the cdi and bingo it started right up. Now my questions are. It has three kill circuits, the foot brake, key switch and the kill switch. My brake light was on no problem and it was cranking the starter no problem and the kill switch stopped it if it was turned to the kill position. I thought if one of those didn't work the thing wouldn't crank. That is what took so long to figure out . If you could lead me to a course of action i will follow up.I stopped it today by shutting down the gas flow.
Thanks Tim
Thanks for your contribution to this forum it is greatly appreciated by many. Today i went out unplugged the kill wire from the cdi and bingo it started right up. Now my questions are. It has three kill circuits, the foot brake, key switch and the kill switch. My brake light was on no problem and it was cranking the starter no problem and the kill switch stopped it if it was turned to the kill position. I thought if one of those didn't work the thing wouldn't crank. That is what took so long to figure out . If you could lead me to a course of action i will follow up.I stopped it today by shutting down the gas flow.
Thanks Tim
#7
Lynn,
Thanks for your contribution to this forum it is greatly appreciated by many. Today i went out unplugged the kill wire from the cdi and bingo it started right up. Now my questions are. It has three kill circuits, the foot brake, key switch and the kill switch. My brake light was on no problem and it was cranking the starter no problem and the kill switch stopped it if it was turned to the kill position. I thought if one of those didn't work the thing wouldn't crank. That is what took so long to figure out . If you could lead me to a course of action i will follow up.I stopped it today by shutting down the gas flow.
Thanks Tim
Thanks for your contribution to this forum it is greatly appreciated by many. Today i went out unplugged the kill wire from the cdi and bingo it started right up. Now my questions are. It has three kill circuits, the foot brake, key switch and the kill switch. My brake light was on no problem and it was cranking the starter no problem and the kill switch stopped it if it was turned to the kill position. I thought if one of those didn't work the thing wouldn't crank. That is what took so long to figure out . If you could lead me to a course of action i will follow up.I stopped it today by shutting down the gas flow.
Thanks Tim
But spark kill circuits don't involve foot brakes. The foot brake switch is in the starter motor safety interlock circuitry. which simply keeps you from engaging the starter motor unless the brakes are applied. It doesn't prevent spark, or prevent the quad from starting. It only makes sure the brakes (applied) keep the quad still if it should start up. So there is a logical disconnect here...
Typical kill switches are:
1) One half of the two switch section ignition switch.
2) The left handle bar kill switch
3) A tether (pull cord) kill switch
4) A remote start/stop module.
Your kill switch wiring has 600 ohms to ground. Disconnecting it causes spark to return. So I would concentrate on that. Reconnect the kill switch connection to your CDI, then start unplugging the other kill switches one by one until the 600 ohms goes away.
My back of the envelope calculations based on the measurements on my 150cc quad suggest that 600 ohms could be a problem. It's on the edge.
But also let's be realistic. Often measurements that seem solid yesterday don't repeat the next day. Measurement error is legion amongst inexperienced technicians, and par for the course for experienced ones too. Don't get trapped into "I measured this yesterday" and so now it is gospel. Repeat and verify. If it doesn't measure the same then repeat until it does - today, tomorrow, and everyday. Don't be afraid to back down and say I measured something wrong yesterday. Now the reading is...
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#8
Lynn,
I did have two issues which may have caused some extra time fixing this problem. I had a loose connection with the cdi so I just cut off the plugs and wired it straight up. i'll probably solder them later but for now used some wire nuts and tape. The main problem was the handle bar kill switch which i now have dissconnected. I did order a new one but for now the key can turn it off. Drove around for a while today and all is good!
Thanks again
Tim
I did have two issues which may have caused some extra time fixing this problem. I had a loose connection with the cdi so I just cut off the plugs and wired it straight up. i'll probably solder them later but for now used some wire nuts and tape. The main problem was the handle bar kill switch which i now have dissconnected. I did order a new one but for now the key can turn it off. Drove around for a while today and all is good!
Thanks again
Tim
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