Pull the carb and clean it again like jaster said. You may have a bad carb also.

 

Spend about 2 hrs on this **************** today.
I drained completely the gas tank, both reserviors. pulled the petcock and cleaned it.
pulled the carb and cleaned that (about the 6th time in the past month) saw daylight thru all jets.
My needle is not adjustable so just put it where it goes.
blew compressd air thru everything. Then added 93 octane Shell gasoline.
started right up (as usual) then I began taking my time and doing the carb adjustment 1/2 turn at a time, until the screw was rattling.
The end result was..............some minor power but still died out when I gave it gas. I don't have any gauges on the machine to tell me RPMs or anything but I would say it got up to about a 3-5 MPH and then couldn't handle any more.

This Quad I was able to get running in the winter doing the same things I've tried now. I am at a total loss as to what is going on?

If there is anything beyond throwing money at it, please advise.

I plan to start seriously looking into a new carb and possibly a CDI.

Eric

 

if you pulled the jets, and used a guitar string or used an oxy-acetylene torch tip cleaner pack to rod out the orifices which will do more than compressed air to remove any solids, then i would say you now have a vacuum leak or your carb is screwed up and needs to be replaced. now mind you, any little piece of debris/solids in the orifices and down the center of the jets, will cause a fuel starvation condition which would bog the quad down until it dies. this has been my experience. oh, one other thing, on your intake boot from the carb to the jug/cylinder, do you have a flange that has an O-ring on one side of it? if so, is that in the correct position? that could be a vacuum leak right there which would contribute to this problem. some quads have them, some don't.

 

i cleaned a carb on a BMX quad 2 weeks ago that was doing this after my friend said he cleaned them. i showed him a slight difference in the amount of sunlight he was seeing in the orifices. it wasn't much. after we used the cleaner pack, it was like a half of a piece of a granule of sand, it was running fine. it wasn't much, but just enough to bog it down.

 

one of the carb/jet experts are gonna have to chime in on this one. BUT, i missed your post about your air filter and it got me to thinking this: more air flow, unsure of how many scfd (scuffs) your filter is pulling in as opposed to the factory air box, but it "could" have too much air and your jets may need to be replaced with bigger ones. .
like i said, the carb/jet experts will have to weigh in on that one. sorry i don't know. i really don't do mods on carbs and really can't tell you. but it seems feasible. i'm a factory kind of guy. . i like stock.

 

I switched from the stock to the uni filter because it was missing the tube that connected the carb to the air box.

I did have it running fairly well with the uni filter this past winter

 

Try covering up half the airfilter with a small plastic bag and see if its any better.

 

hey, just thought about this, check to make sure your choke cable is not engaging your choke element. or does yours have the bystarter valve?

 

I have an auto choke. Is there a way to check it

 

so the autochoke you're talking about is the bystarter valve? hmmm....i'll have to look at LynnEdwards' posts to see if there is a way to test it. but all it does on cold start up is put more raw fuel to the cylinder rather than a vapor. running that way would only seem to make a flooding issue. i think we're still dealing with a fuel delivery/vacuum leak situation. somehow, it's got either too much air or not enough fuel. while idling, did you spray carb cleaner or ether/starting fluid around the intake boot to see if it revs up to check for vacuum leaks that way?