1) Engine problems.. If your quad wont run..post in here.

yamota 150cc atv

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-15-2012, 05:43 AM
knut83's Avatar
Weekend Warrior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: norway,bergen,
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default yamota 150cc atv

hello, i am new here, and i have a problem whit a china atv i just got
i was told this was a 2008 mod yamota 150cc.
it has no spark, i have put on a new cdi, ignition switch and a new coil but still no spark,
i need a correct electrical diagram if someone have,
i cant find noeone brake switch or kill switch one this ?
don't now if it has ore not, but i have no leftover wires
 
  #2  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:35 AM
Jaster94's Avatar
Extreme Pro Rider
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,224
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

so you have voltage from the battery, through the fuse, through the solenoid, in/around through the key switch in the "on" position, and the battery is showing over 12.5 volts? so it cranks/turns over but no spark? have you tried a new spark plug? sometimes that is the simplest of repairs and yes, there are times when that is the only problem. the brake switch, which should be located on the left handlebar, would inhibit it cranking/turning over the engine if it a safety interlock. look for the piston that comes from the lever into the side of the brake reservoir which should be full of DOT 4 brake fluid. look for 2 wires coming out of it. if the switch is working, you should hear a "tink" when you are exercising the lever back and forth. the brake light could be burned out and not illuminating, but listen for the switch to activate. use an ohm meter/voltmeter to take any readings for resistance/continuity. look for the kill button, also on the left handlebar area. may be a 3 position switch, "run, Kill, run" set up. check that wiring to make sure THAT switch is operating correctly. in the run position, you should have voltage whereas the kill seletion would ground out the spark. make sure the coil wire has no deficiencies/cracks or any signs of degradation. sorry for the longwinded reply, just trying to cover all bases for now. report back any and all findings with details.
 
  #3  
Old 12-15-2012, 07:29 AM
knut83's Avatar
Weekend Warrior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: norway,bergen,
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Jaster94
so you have voltage from the battery, through the fuse, through the solenoid, in/around through the key switch in the "on" position, and the battery is showing over 12.5 volts? so it cranks/turns over but no spark? have you tried a new spark plug? sometimes that is the simplest of repairs and yes, there are times when that is the only problem. the brake switch, which should be located on the left handlebar, would inhibit it cranking/turning over the engine if it a safety interlock. look for the piston that comes from the lever into the side of the brake reservoir which should be full of DOT 4 brake fluid. look for 2 wires coming out of it. if the switch is working, you should hear a "tink" when you are exercising the lever back and forth. the brake light could be burned out and not illuminating, but listen for the switch to activate. use an ohm meter/voltmeter to take any readings for resistance/continuity. look for the kill button, also on the left handlebar area. may be a 3 position switch, "run, Kill, run" set up. check that wiring to make sure THAT switch is operating correctly. in the run position, you should have voltage whereas the kill seletion would ground out the spark. make sure the coil wire has no deficiencies/cracks or any signs of degradation. sorry for the longwinded reply, just trying to cover all bases for now. report back any and all findings with details.
hello and tanks for helping,
battery is god,fuse is ok, when i turn on the key i got backlight on and engine is cranking when i press the electric switch,but got no spark,i have power in to cdi from ignition but noting going out from cdi to coil, i have noting on the stator in flyweel in ore out, i dont have any brake switch on the atv , i put some pic off the atv in my album so you can se
 
  #4  
Old 12-15-2012, 03:53 PM
Jaster94's Avatar
Extreme Pro Rider
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,224
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

commented on pics in your album.
 
  #5  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:28 PM
LynnEdwards's Avatar
Electrical Expert
Likes High Voltage In The Tub!
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

I looked to see if I had a yamoto 150cc wiring diagram. I do not.

How many pins are on your CDI? Six (2 pin and a 4 pin connector set)?

You said you had power to the CDI. How was this measured? What did you measure? Was is AC voltage from the stator or DC voltage from the battery (through the ignition switch and fuse)? Or was this just an indication from a test light?

Do you know if you CDI is DC or AC powered?

You measured nothing from the stator to the CDI. What wire(s) did you measure? How did you measure these? With a meter? What scale? AC or DC? What did you measure?

What are the colors of the wires going to your CDI?

What are the colors of the wires at you stator connector(s). Note: I only want the wire colors on the "wire harness" side of the stator/wire harness connections. I don't care at all about the wire colors going into the stator itself.
 
  #6  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:34 PM
mudmike's Avatar
Range Rover
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: only state mentioned it the bible
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default bad kill switch?

Though im getting it second hand the electrical expert says the safeties keep the engine from cranking not the plug from firing and you seem to have a cranking engine. He also says that the way the switch works is when in 'run' it is an open circut when in 'kill' it grounds the pulse signal before the cdi can read it. So my logic says simply unplug the left thumb kill switch and see if you have spark. Because completely disconnecting the switch should open the circut. Other things to try
1) Trace the wire from kill switch to cdi and make sure it isnt grounding along the way (pinched wire or bare spot)
2) Look at the sticky above on stators there is a diagram showing the cdi and how to test if is AC or DC this test may not tell you what is wrong but you will atl east know you are getting power to the cdi (mine has had the wire become disconnected twice) cause that could be the problem.

Other things I dont know how to test for but could be the problem are no pulse from pickup coil or bad new part (cdi)
 
  #7  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:37 PM
mudmike's Avatar
Range Rover
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: only state mentioned it the bible
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

the pulse I dont know the test for but bet is posted here somewhere. The bad new part the only way to test is replace one you know is working with yours or vice versa.

Also is your coil got good ground?
 
  #8  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:38 PM
mudmike's Avatar
Range Rover
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: only state mentioned it the bible
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

the pulse I dont know the test for but bet is posted here somewhere. The bad new part the only way to test is replace one you know is working with yours or vice versa.

Also is your coil got good ground?
 
  #9  
Old 12-16-2012, 06:04 AM
Jaster94's Avatar
Extreme Pro Rider
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,224
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

i threw in the comments about the safety interlocks just in case something else went wrong and he'd be ahead of the game. of course the safety interlocks prevent cranking/turning over the engine. it was just a tidbit of info he may need for future reference. i agree with y'all, it may be somewhere between the kill switch and the CDI.
 
  #10  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:12 AM
knut83's Avatar
Weekend Warrior
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: norway,bergen,
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LynnEdwards
I looked to see if I had a yamoto 150cc wiring diagram. I do not.

How many pins are on your CDI? Six (2 pin and a 4 pin connector set)?

You said you had power to the CDI. How was this measured? What did you measure? Was is AC voltage from the stator or DC voltage from the battery (through the ignition switch and fuse)? Or was this just an indication from a test light?

Do you know if you CDI is DC or AC powered?

You measured nothing from the stator to the CDI. What wire(s) did you measure? How did you measure these? With a meter? What scale? AC or DC? What did you measure?

What are the colors of the wires going to your CDI?

What are the colors of the wires at you stator connector(s). Note: I only want the wire colors on the "wire harness" side of the stator/wire harness connections. I don't care at all about the wire colors going into the stator itself.
Hey , i have 6 pin on cdi yes 4 in one and 2 in the other,but just one wire in the 2pin connector it don't have the kill switch wire
the ignition power on cdi i have ,i just a light bulb h7 12v 55w and a meter
on the whit color wire in to stator i get slowly week light when cranking engine ,the ground is ok allover,the engine turns inn all 3 positions of the run/kill switch. i put some new pic in the albums,
tanks for helping
 


Quick Reply: yamota 150cc atv



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:35 AM.