Coolster 110 will not crank electrical issue
#1
Lynn, please help!
I have a coolster 110 that will not turnover at all. All kill switches are set to run and I am depressing all brakes when trying to start. My guess is the brake switch but don't know how to test. Here's what I know so far (which isn't much).
1. Battery is fine. Measuring 12.87 volts
2. Starter solenoid works as it should. I have tested this by jumping the solenoid. When I do this it does crank the starter however I am not getting spark.
3. My brake light is coming on but I have noticed that two of the three wires on the brake light are broken at the solder joint. Don't see why this would matter but thought I would mention it.
I am totally stumped. Thanks in advance for any help!
I have a coolster 110 that will not turnover at all. All kill switches are set to run and I am depressing all brakes when trying to start. My guess is the brake switch but don't know how to test. Here's what I know so far (which isn't much).
1. Battery is fine. Measuring 12.87 volts
2. Starter solenoid works as it should. I have tested this by jumping the solenoid. When I do this it does crank the starter however I am not getting spark.
3. My brake light is coming on but I have noticed that two of the three wires on the brake light are broken at the solder joint. Don't see why this would matter but thought I would mention it.
I am totally stumped. Thanks in advance for any help!
#4
I'm having the same problem and I'd like to know if you resolved the issue, and if so, how?
#5
Check you are getting power to the ignition switch, it is the other end of the main fuse wire. Check you are getting power from the ignition switch to the start button. Occasionally you can get a bike where start button works by earthing the solenoid, but these are not common. So, if power gets to start button does it get from there, when button is pressed, to solenoid thin wire? If it does, then check the other thin wire to solenoid is earthed. The earth for this can go via a lock-out, either a brake or neutral switch, but lock-outs could be on the "live" side of the wire to the start button, depending on make of bike.
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