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Converting to a electric choke from manual difficult?

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Old 04-06-2018, 03:38 PM
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Default Converting to a electric choke from manual difficult?

I have a 2007 Eton Yukon CXL 150 cc with a manual choke carb. It seems every year, whether I drain it for winter or not I end up having to replace the carb anyway. Well this year I am having difficulty finding a manual one that isnt an arm and a leg, but I find electric ones that are only $25. How hard is it to swap to an electric one? Thankyou
 
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Old 04-06-2018, 04:19 PM
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Don't know if your carb is similar to the other youth models,but Polaris had a manual choke kit to replace the electric choke. You might look at these two and see if they might work. One's cheap,the other not so.look at the bottom of this listing on the electric choke it replaces.https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPO...-/191047189132 Plus here's the other one.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Manual-Choke....c100005.m1851
 
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:17 AM
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Thank you. I looked at them but they both say converting from a electric to a manual. I'm needing to convert from a manual to electric.
 
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:28 PM
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You're the first one I've ever heard of wanting to go from a manual to an electric choke,most of which never worked right to begin with. Looking back on your first post also why should you have to replace a carb every year? Keep Marine Stabil,Startron or any good stabilizer in the tank and don't drain the fuel from the carb bowl. If anything crank it up every now and then in the winter then you shouldn't have any problems with carbs getting crapped out. Even if you don't run one,the stabilizers should protect it.
 
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Old 04-10-2018, 12:57 PM
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Well I tried the stabilizer that the guy at the store recommended and I tried to crank it during the winter, it doesnt like the cold to begin with and it gave me issues starting. It burnt up the solenoid from me trying to start it so much, then when I took out the carb whatever the guy gave me it had gunked up in the bowl with the float. Out of the three years Ive had this 4 wheeler, it has been through 3 carbs, whether its cleaning or replacing them. My other 4 wheeler and dune buggy dont have this issue and they are treated the same way. When Ive replaced them completely it starts up fine, but manual carbs are becoming expensive. My dune buggy has an electric and I dont have any issues with it. So I thought maybe it would be easier if I converted it.
 
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:25 PM
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Well the problem started with the salesman giving you something that obviously didn't work if the carb was gunked up. Single or even double dose with either of these(more won't hurt) and you'll probably see the difference.Absolutely no sense in having to swap out carbs every year.
 
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:02 AM
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Thank you so much! I will see about buying one of these! And I replaced the carb yesterday and luckily I was able to hook everything up with a 12 volt fuse and some extra wire that I had. It fired right up after a little adjusting the idle and all. But thank you for the help and I will make sure to put this stuff in there.
 
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Old 04-14-2018, 02:36 AM
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"I replaced the carb yesterday and luckily I was able to hook everything up with a 12 volt fuse and some extra wire that I had"

If you are inferring that you wired an electric choke up to the ignition "live", it shouldn't be. Manufacturers wire them to the AC wires direct from the alternator, so they only get current with the engine running. If the ignition is left on, your choke will be fed with power overnight and burn out and/or run the battery down.
 
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:40 AM
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Oh no, I know about that. I don't want to have a dead battery when I drive out and about. It's been ran to the alternator after I made sure it worked. I just tested the 12 volt on the live one to make sure that the carb would work and run before I went thru all the work of getting it to the alternator. I looked at some diagrams of the models I have that were electric and just went that route. I saved the manual lever and cable just incase I want to go either way.
 
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