Kazuma Falcon 110 non-start (kind of)
#1
Kazuma Falcon 110 non-start (kind of)
Hi Folks,
looking for some advice / guidance please. I’m more of a car guy so apologies if any of this doesn’t make sense or terminology is wrong.
One of my pal’s sons has a Kazuma Falcon 110. Sometime ago it cut out and wouldn’t restart. My pal replaced a number of components (fuel filter, carb, CDI, regulator, run/start switch assy). After replacing the carb the quad ran once, briefly (45-60 secs) but wouldn’t take throttle.
As far as I can tell under normal (running) conditions the engine can be stopped using the “Run Switch” on the handlebars, the ignition switch or the “Safety Switch” (for a lanyard?) on the rear left of the bike.
Fault is the engine cranks but doesn’t start (there is a spark at the plug).
Removing the kill switch wire (Bk/W wire) from the CDI connector the engine starts and runs every time. Refitting the kill wire at the CDI the engine continues to run and can be stopped by operating any of the 3 switches.
Disconnecting the “kill” wire from the Run or Safety switches does not affect whether the bike will start or not - only disconnecting it at the CDI affects starting.
Voltage at the kill wire terminal on the CDI connector (when running) is 12.4V, when cranking it drops to 11.2V when either of the kill switches are activated it drops to 0v
As a workaround I’ve fitted a switch in the kill wire at the CDI connector this allows the bike to be started (by opening the switch), once running the switch is closed and it can be stopped using any of the 3 switches mentioned above.
Not sure where to go from here - instinct tells me it could be a wiring issue with the kill wire (damaged / broken /shorting to ground) but the bike does run ok once it starts. Is the volt drop on cranking significant?
Is the volt drop enough for the CDI unit to cut the spark - I didn’t think at the time to compare start/no start sparks?
Thanks
looking for some advice / guidance please. I’m more of a car guy so apologies if any of this doesn’t make sense or terminology is wrong.
One of my pal’s sons has a Kazuma Falcon 110. Sometime ago it cut out and wouldn’t restart. My pal replaced a number of components (fuel filter, carb, CDI, regulator, run/start switch assy). After replacing the carb the quad ran once, briefly (45-60 secs) but wouldn’t take throttle.
As far as I can tell under normal (running) conditions the engine can be stopped using the “Run Switch” on the handlebars, the ignition switch or the “Safety Switch” (for a lanyard?) on the rear left of the bike.
Fault is the engine cranks but doesn’t start (there is a spark at the plug).
Removing the kill switch wire (Bk/W wire) from the CDI connector the engine starts and runs every time. Refitting the kill wire at the CDI the engine continues to run and can be stopped by operating any of the 3 switches.
Disconnecting the “kill” wire from the Run or Safety switches does not affect whether the bike will start or not - only disconnecting it at the CDI affects starting.
Voltage at the kill wire terminal on the CDI connector (when running) is 12.4V, when cranking it drops to 11.2V when either of the kill switches are activated it drops to 0v
As a workaround I’ve fitted a switch in the kill wire at the CDI connector this allows the bike to be started (by opening the switch), once running the switch is closed and it can be stopped using any of the 3 switches mentioned above.
Not sure where to go from here - instinct tells me it could be a wiring issue with the kill wire (damaged / broken /shorting to ground) but the bike does run ok once it starts. Is the volt drop on cranking significant?
Is the volt drop enough for the CDI unit to cut the spark - I didn’t think at the time to compare start/no start sparks?
Thanks
#2
#3
Thanks ZRock,
maybe I wasn’t clear [QUOTEI Disconnecting the “kill” wire from the Run or Safety switches does not affect whether the bike will start or not - only disconnecting it at the CDI affects starting.would say one of the kill switches is bad. .[/QUOTE]
disconnecting the kill wire from the kill switches (Run switch on h/bars & lanyard switch at rear) doesn’t make any difference. Ie if those 2 switches are disconnected but the kill wire connected at CDI bike doesn’t start if kill wire disconnected at CDI (kill switches can be connected or disconnected) bike starts.
Thanks again.
maybe I wasn’t clear [QUOTEI Disconnecting the “kill” wire from the Run or Safety switches does not affect whether the bike will start or not - only disconnecting it at the CDI affects starting.would say one of the kill switches is bad. .[/QUOTE]
disconnecting the kill wire from the kill switches (Run switch on h/bars & lanyard switch at rear) doesn’t make any difference. Ie if those 2 switches are disconnected but the kill wire connected at CDI bike doesn’t start if kill wire disconnected at CDI (kill switches can be connected or disconnected) bike starts.
Thanks again.
#4
#5
Hi HFMac. If your switches require open circuit to run try this test recommended by lynn Edwards.
Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to
measure resistance in the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance
is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you
have a kill switch/wiring issue.
There is a method to find which switch may be at fault but im not sure how. if I can find the method ill let you know
Good luck
Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to
measure resistance in the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground. If the reistance
is infinite on the 100K ohm scale then your kill switches/kill switch wiring are OK. If you measure zero ohms then you
have a kill switch/wiring issue.
There is a method to find which switch may be at fault but im not sure how. if I can find the method ill let you know
Good luck
#6
update kill switch check
Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to
measure resistance in the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground.
It will read zero ohms. Disconnect all the kill switches (by unplugging them) at the wiring harness connector
one at a time until the resistance goes to infinity (open). Then you've found the bad switch.
hope this helps.
Unplug the CDI. Turn on the ignition switch and set all kill switches to the run position. Use a meter to
measure resistance in the kill switch pin in the wiring harness connector to engine/frame ground.
It will read zero ohms. Disconnect all the kill switches (by unplugging them) at the wiring harness connector
one at a time until the resistance goes to infinity (open). Then you've found the bad switch.
hope this helps.
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