Just go a Pakrat but thinking about adding a generator. Electrical is rated 30 amp. I figure 3,500watt is minimum, but, to work properly, does the generator have to have a 30 amp outlet or will a 20 amp work just limit how much power available? Also want something quiet. Does anyone have any recommendations.

 

Go with at least a 4,000 watt.

Watts are equal to volts times amps. I see several people with pigtails to convert the 30A plug down to a 15A U-ground ("standard plug"). I work for an electrical contractor as a draftsman and I cringe every time I see this. [ed.]Plugs are rated and configured based on what they are designed to carry. Don't change them unless you know what you are doing and know that you can easily screw stuff up (i.e. burn/electrocute/etc.).[/ed.]

You might be able to get away with a 3,500 watt. If there is a 30A main breaker in the trailer the max load that it's designed to carry is actually 24A. (Breakers are rated at 80%). Plus you don't want to get something that's just barely big enough. You'll kill the poor thing. You'll put less stress on it, and it will last you much longer. And you'll have a little extra juice when you need it.

[ed.]I believe that both Honda and Onan have come out with quiet models. Some parks, etc. have mandatory quiet times. Probably 10pm. I believe these new generators meet US Forest Service standards for quiet time and can be run at night if needed.

I just keep finding stuff. Here is Onan's Generator Selector.[/ed.]

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i just bought a generator at costco for $500. it is louder then i like but can power anything i want, 5600 watts. not exactly sure what your looking for but i know the craftsman 3500 watts are just as loud and more money. for anything more than a light you will want atleast 3000 watts. hope this helps.

 

i posted before i seen b,r warriors post, and he certainly knows more than me, so follow what he said.

 

I have one of those Costco Generac 5000 watt things with a 10 horse engine. It was as loud as a top fuel dragster, and I put a better muffler on it so now it's about like a pro gas car. It weighs four tons. But, it fires my roof air no problem.

I am looking at smaller quieter and lighter units, and am thinking maybe a 3000 watt unit might be able to fire the air up on that initial load with nothing else running, then would be good to run the thing without too much strain. Any of you electricians have an opinion? As close as I can tell from the vague camper manual its demand is anywhere from 2500 to 3500 watts peak but I think it's the lower end because I have a small 5th wheel (22').

 

Shady what did ou use to quite the muffler down,i have a colman 3500 and it fires everyting up in my trailer,th generator,the TV the microwave so it's strong enough..

 

I picked up a muffler made specifically for that Briggs motor at a place here called Quality Supply (local chain of feed & hardware ranch stores). It actually made a pretty good difference; the factory muffler was just that flat can thing the size of 2 packs of cigarettes, whereas this is an actual round can chambered unit like a quad 4 stroke muffler. About 70 bucks if I remember right.

Does your 3500 light up an a/c unit? That's my main concern, I know the micro & tv will be okay.

 

yea she can run them all,and we used the heck out of it at glamis and it worked great,that was my concern for the kids and it worked great,make sure it's a craftsman,i got the colman one from home depot same engine but diffrent maker and had to take it back twice,then the sears one fired right up and been great ever since..thanks for the info on the muffler..

 

You will need power rated at 3x the running load to power up any motor loads. Inductive loads (incandescent lamps, etc.) don't have huge pull to start up. I would definitely say to start out with a 4,000 watt class generator. I forgot to ask my supervisor (lic. engineer) what he would go with. When we deal with generators it's usually 50KVA and bigger and often 480/277V 3Phase...a little overkill for our purposes.

If you have a 30A cord connetor, find a generator with a matching receptacle (though I think those cord caps are different than what's on the generator). If not, find a generator with a 30A receptacle on it (most likely a twist-lock style that will probably be a NEMA L5-30R (locking, 120V, 30Amps, Receptacle). You might need to get a receptacle to match your cord cap on your trailer, a section of appropriate cord (like 10/3 SO cord, maybe 8/3 SO), and a NEMA L5-30P (locking, 120V, 30Amps, Plug) to make a short pigtail. No matter what, DO NOT use a cord smaller than what is on the trailer. If you have to make a longer cord, you'll need to go bigger (smaller wire size) do to voltage drop. SO type cord may not be the correct type. Different cords are made for different environments. You'll definately wants something that can handle getting wet if you generator is outside and could get wet.

Go spulunking around your trailer looking for load plates. Usually metal embossed. What you are looking for on the plate is the section marked FLA for Full Load Amps. Remember, Watts=Amps X Volts. And with algebra you can move that around. Remember that you A/C and refer. might be cycling. Your big loads are going to be A/C, refer and maybe the water pump if it can draw from your AC power via an inverter. And most likely you will also be charging the batteries when you have the genset running.

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Excellent infor Warrior! Much appreciated, heck I'm going to print that & throw it in my pile of useful tidbits.

Off-topic, since you are well read on this--I'm burying a line from house to shop, don't need 220, about 150 feet long. I was thinking of pulling in some black plastic sprinkler line and fishing the wire through that. Guys say you can wad up a piece of plastic bag, with a string tied to it, and suck it through the pipe, then use the string to pull bigger string, then wire. What would you do? Is there any type of wire you can just bury?

Thanks,
Shady