clutch is going, where to get....
#1
I do belive my clutch is going upon hard exceleration it feels like its reving when I change gears but not really getting faster or it feels like it catches after it revs. its really bad in 3rd its revving but Im not going any faster. it feels fine for just putting around the track though.
should I pull the plates and mic them? what is mininum thickness? maybe the steels need sanding ?
I just changed the oil w/ Mobile 10-40 I dont think this oil would hinder the clutch do you ?
my dealer wants $156 for stock ones is this a fair price for stock,what did you pay?? where can I get Barnett or stock I havent looked to hard yet, thought I would ask you guys.
Sam
should I pull the plates and mic them? what is mininum thickness? maybe the steels need sanding ?
I just changed the oil w/ Mobile 10-40 I dont think this oil would hinder the clutch do you ?
my dealer wants $156 for stock ones is this a fair price for stock,what did you pay?? where can I get Barnett or stock I havent looked to hard yet, thought I would ask you guys.
Sam
#2
Use an oil designed for wet clutch motorcycles and atvs. Mobile 10-40 is an automotive oil that has friction modifiers in it that could cause problems with clutch slippage.
The friction drive plates must be replaced when thickness is 27.5 mm (1.0827 in) thick or less for the whole package. The steel driven plate wear limit for the whole package is 11.5 mm (.453 in). I don't know where the best place to get a Barnett clutch, maybe PM Mr Horsepower, I know he uses those clutches.
The friction drive plates must be replaced when thickness is 27.5 mm (1.0827 in) thick or less for the whole package. The steel driven plate wear limit for the whole package is 11.5 mm (.453 in). I don't know where the best place to get a Barnett clutch, maybe PM Mr Horsepower, I know he uses those clutches.
#3
Unless you have some serious power, you may be best with stocks and 60% stiffer springs. Make sure you are using good motorcycle oil. If the plates are within spec you can sand them in a figure 8 and use stiffer springs and you should be good.
Justin
Justin
#5
I'm going to go with the clutch setup Mr. HP recomends. It works great for low or highly modified machines, is about $150 and has the stock pull.
People worry about a small change in tension on the thumb throttle, but no concern on the clutch. I guess everyone is left handed then? (I'm actually left handed.) I like the idea of the $150 clutch (which is $7 less than buying the stocker from the dealer) and it works well on a good variety of machines with stock pull - what could be better?
Seriously, what could be better? (I did NOT say cheaper - I know the springs are cheaper.)
People worry about a small change in tension on the thumb throttle, but no concern on the clutch. I guess everyone is left handed then? (I'm actually left handed.) I like the idea of the $150 clutch (which is $7 less than buying the stocker from the dealer) and it works well on a good variety of machines with stock pull - what could be better?
Seriously, what could be better? (I did NOT say cheaper - I know the springs are cheaper.)
#7
mrhp will get you the 9 disc barnett kit. you can also get it from alba for about the same price. I have been running barnett kit for allmost a year with no problems.I found somewhere on the web that said barnett springs are 20% stiffer. not sure if thats true or not. all I know is when I put my mrhp intake setup on. my stock clutch was slipping on the first ride. I also use klotz oil.
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#8
i did what lilnotts did, i was on my second clutch and when it went to slipping i pulled it apart and the plates were fine so i got the tvi 60% clutch springs and havent slipped it since.
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