400EX rear swing arm bolt removal!!!
#3
ernie, get ready for one of the toughest challenges of your life man....
If its siezed good, you might have to cut the bolt in several places, and press the rest of it out
You might get lucky with a torch, a 15lb sledge, and a 12 pack
If its siezed good, you might have to cut the bolt in several places, and press the rest of it out
You might get lucky with a torch, a 15lb sledge, and a 12 pack
#4
Thats is what I figured... The bolt will not spin at all. After rounding the head off, I welded another nut to it and still the damn thing will not budge.....
Cut it in several places, hummmm. I guess its time to call on Victor one more time..[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
whatwasthat thanks for your reply, also you as well TractorPacker
Cut it in several places, hummmm. I guess its time to call on Victor one more time..[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
whatwasthat thanks for your reply, also you as well TractorPacker
#5
Do a search on swingarm bolt. You will read plenty. You definitely want to protect your frame with a 1/2 inch board if you plan to pound away at the bolt.
If you choose to apply heat, don't ruin the engine case bushings as Honda doesn't make replacements.
Forget WD40 and all that penetrating oil crap. It won't work for this bolt if it is truly seized.
If you must sacrifice a part, sacrifice the swingarm by torching it off too. There is a good chance it is ruined anyhow.
/Jon
If you choose to apply heat, don't ruin the engine case bushings as Honda doesn't make replacements.
Forget WD40 and all that penetrating oil crap. It won't work for this bolt if it is truly seized.
If you must sacrifice a part, sacrifice the swingarm by torching it off too. There is a good chance it is ruined anyhow.
/Jon
#7
When you are done, you will need a new bolt. Solid Stainless bolt (sold on ebay) is one option. The other is another factory bolt that is hollow. You can tape both ends. On the bolt side, I put a zerk. They use a 1/8" NPT thread. On the other end, I uses a metric and put a plug in it. Then drill hole through the bolt to allow the grease to come out. You will want to position so you have a hill where the one engine sleeve would be and another where the other engine sleeve is. (note the engine sleeves do not touch in the middle but I guess you could fill the entire crevice with grease).
You won't really get grease to your bearings but that isn't really shouldn't be your goal at this point.
In the future, release tension on the nut. Apply grease, spin the bolt a few times to distribute the grease. Retorque.
/Jon
You won't really get grease to your bearings but that isn't really shouldn't be your goal at this point.
In the future, release tension on the nut. Apply grease, spin the bolt a few times to distribute the grease. Retorque.
/Jon
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#8
Hello guys.. eveybody is right these bolts suck to get out. But I have a solution that is almost guarteed to get it out. Ive done 4 400ex. Two 01 s and two 99s. The trick is is to use a slidehammer. Simply take the nut off. After you take the nut off drill and tap the other side for an M12 BOLT. You want it fairly deep. The bolt is hollow to begin with so its pretty easy to drill sraight. Now make your slide hammer. You all know how bad they re stuck so think big. Mine has a 20 lb slug on it with handles. To connect the slide hammer to the bolt you could either weld a bolt on the end or turn threads on the shaft with a lathe, then screw it in and swing away. It will come with no heat or wd40 I don't care how bad it is. The force will be directly in line with the bolt which makes it come right out. By doing it this way the only part you ruin is the bolt and no further dissassembly is needed to get it out.
Mike Maag.
Cloverdale Ohio.
Mike Maag.
Cloverdale Ohio.
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