Hello forum glad to see that someone has created this site and i am grateful.

I know that it's a import from China.

It has been through some so called "Suspension upgrade". You can see the pictures below. I am going to type out what wires i have coming from and going to. Maybe if someone can identify it i can get my hands on a diagram. I know i have to rewire it. I have already checked the other components and they all work. Just need to clean it up and make sure it's wired right. It's a 110cc auto with electric start, and remote kill/start/alarm. There are no other way's of starting aka kick or pull. I will be adding front drum brakes soon. As well as either repairing the frame or getting a used frame (maybe someone can point me in the right direction.)

5 pin CDI out xxx/xxx = striped
red/black, blue/white, yellow/black, black/white, black

Light/kill/start
yellow, red, blue, green, black, gray, brown

Voltage regulator (if i am not mistaken)
yellow, black, white, red

Alarm
yellow/red, white/red, pink, red, 2 x black

Stator out
black/red, yellow, white, green, blue/white

Starter output goes straight to spark plug.

I have searched multiple diagrams and i can't seem to locate the positive feed to the electrical circuit (it's missing)

The pictures.









Thanks for any help, also can anyone tell me the manufacturer.

Thanks again.

 

As i was looking around for a few other things i needed to get i noticed something. It has a place to place the battery (the battery box was removed).

Being that the starter is located on the top of the engine and there is no place to connect a starter relay solenoid, but there is a spot that looks like a component is missing. Correct me if i am wrong but would i have to hook up a ignition coil?

This atv has seen better days, the kids are constantly asking "When will it be fixed?".

 

Yes you need an ignition coil. It won't work without that.

You will need a starter solenoid. I see heavy gauge red wire coming off the starter. I don't see where it goes. It should go to the starter solenoid.

Normally there is an ignition switch. The fused +12 volts goes to here. The switched side feeds the 12 volt power bus.

You need a 10 amp fuse on the battery plus wire that feeds everything other than the heavy gauge starter solenoid cable. Do not attempt to wire this up without a fuse. Especially when working with that wiring mess. You can easily cause a fire without proper fusing.

What did you mean when you said "Starter output goes straight to spark plug" ? Starters and spark plugs don't have anything to do with one another.

 

Welcome to the forums.
Suspension upgrde..LMAO!!!!
Glad to see you have a sence of humor.

 

Well i do have a very good sense of humor. Just laid back and patient.
I have removed the "Splices" and i have the wiring left to find a diagram for.
I did get a ignition coil and relay.

This is what i need to wire up:

Ignition coil
Starter relay
CDI unit
Voltage requlator
Stator
Alarm w/ remote kill start and alarm

This is the whole controls for the left hand instruments
Head lights tail lights
electric start (left hand)
kill and run switch
Brake trigger (switch that when you squeeze the brake it lights the tail light brighter


Any help will be appreciated

I have ordered a new frame swing arm, 3x shocks, sprocket cover, drum brakes for the front.
I got a great deal from a friend of a friend.

 

If it were me I'd take a divide and conquer approach. I'd get the ignition system wired up and working, and wire up a crude "manual" starter solenoid to allow the starter to turn. Then once the engine is running go on from there to get the rest of the systems working one at a time. After all, it doesn't make any sense to vet out the headlight wiring only to find the engine is toast.

The ignition system runs off its own high voltage AC supply generated in the stator (this is compleletely separate from the battery charging system which is also in the stator). You do not need the battery or regulator for the quad to run. But you will a charged battery to run the starter motor.

As a reference check out the following link:

http://www.adventureimports.co.nz/in...ATV_manual.pdf

It has a wiring diagram in the back for a 110cc machine which is probably very similar to yours, and includes a remote control unit.

Is this your CDI?



You need to wire up all these pins. Ground is usually green. The ignition power and trigger wires come from the stator and are usually black/red, and blue/white respectively. The stator also usually has a green ground wire that will need to make it to engine ground.

There is high voltage on several of the stator and CDI pins including the kill switch(es). Mind your fingers when working around these connections when the engine is turning.

The kill switch pin typically goes to several kill switches, any one of which, when closed, will kill the engine by killing the spark. Typical kill switches are the tether pull cord, one pole of the ignition switch, the handlebar kill switch, and the remote control unit. Note that *ALL* of the kill switch must be open (not shorted) for the engine to run. Any one of the kill switches shorted to ground will *kill* the engine. The kill switch wires are usually black/white. When wiring in the kill switch connection make sure that the kill switch line is not shorted to ground when the kill switches are off, and that at least one kill switch can short the line to ground in the off position (so if the engine later on does start up you can shut it off).

The ignition coil primary is driven from the CDI. The secondary connects to the spark plug. The only other connection is to ground. Sometimes there is a green wire that connects up engine ground. Sometimes the connection is through a bolt. Sometimes there's both.

The solenoid needs to be only partially hooked up for the first phase. Connect up the two big screw lugs: One heavy red wire goes from one solonoid post to the battery plus terminal. The other post (with a big heavy red wire) goes to the starter motor input post. And a big heavy green wire goes from the battery negative terminal to the engine block, usually close to the starter. The other two small wires on the solenoid, when 12 volts is applied across them, pulls in a plate which shorts those two big posts together which starts the starter turning. But we don't need to worry about that yet - to turn the starter just short those two post together with a screwdriver to make the starter turn.

So once the CDI and coil are wired up, a charged battery and the two large solenoid posts are wired up, and at least one kill switch is wired up and functioning, it is time to start the engine. Make sure the kill switch(es) is/(are) in the run position and short the solenoid posts with a screwdriver. If it is wired up right and the engine is in good shape with fuel it will start up. The its on to phase two: Getting the charging system working, or maybe getting the starting system (and all the safety interlocks) working.

 

Thanks Lynn and everyone else.

I have the 5 pin CDI. I am working on the essentials first. I did remove the remote stuff (for the time being). I was missing 2 pieces that i got. The ignition coil and the starter relay. I have them wired up (mocked). I am going to redo the wrapping to how they should have been. It was amazing just cutting off of the junk BS that i was able to see that it was just overkill.
I have several diagrams but none of the colors seem to correspond to anything i have. I was debating getting a wire harness but it's something i can do without. I am good at electrical so it won't take long. I am just looking to make sure that i eliminate any possible issues before the new frame arrives. The connections are going to go back to stock (connectors and all). I just want to make sure when it comes time to switch out the frame that the wiring is done.

I have had the engine turned over, changed oil, rebuilt carb, clean the fuel system out. In the process of replacing worn or rusted parts. I also found out that while the engine is turning over you can place your hand over the exhaust and if you feel a suction valves are off their set position.

Just wanted to see if anyone had a similar (well same brand). I think it's something like a BMX or TX? The frame does have a TX followed by some letters so i guess that helps with the identity. I just figured if somoene had the same setup they could either send some pictures or host the diagram. When completed i will host the diagram and the rebuild outcome.

Thanks again.