Hey'all... been awhile.

Working on my 2002 King Quad 300, and hoping to get a second opinion on what might be going on. From the beginning:

I took apart carb and cleaned it all out last spring. Got it running great, drove it all summer.
I had been having issues with fuel hydraulic locking the engine, or best case it would be flooded 10 minutes after shutting it down. Suddenly this past weekend is was running like crap, like when you get water in your fuel. So I thought I would kill 2 birds with 1 stone and clean out the carb, fix the float issue, and get fresh fuel into it. Funny story, I found the primary jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl. Whoops. So not bad fuel after all.

Anyways, I cleaned the carb out, and put it back together. I also found that the vacuum actuated petcock was passing fuel with the engine off, so that was contributing to my flooding issue. I also checked float height, and adjusted it to 0.51 inches height with carb upside down. Engine starts right up, but when I rev it, it sounds a bit barky, and then as I get towards 3/4 throttle I can see what looks like fuel vapor coming out of the carb. When I let off on the throttle or rev it to fast, I get backfiring. Seems like a lean condition to me. In my shop I can see the exhaust header getting red after a minute or two. Cleaned carb a second time. No change.

So Im just curious... did I get the float adjustment too low? I forget where I got that spec from, but it looks pretty close. Anything else worth checking?

Thanks guys.

 

If you can see the vapor comming from the carb then your running it with the airbox/ filter off the carb.....these machines are designed to run with the airbox on! Without the airbox and filter in place, they will always not run correctly! Just cleaning a carb rarely works, a complete rebuild kit should always be used.....

 

This is true, I had the airbox disconnected to make sure everything was working. It's a pain to connect it all back up just to realize that it's still not running. Without the filter I expect it will lean out some, but I didnt think this bad.
What comes in a carb kit that is critical to making it run? There are very few rubber bits in this carb, mostly it's just cleaning jets. All of the o-rings and bits looks good.
Thanks.

 

Looking good is not very precise, been thru this more times than I can count and I am 70 yrs old! Rebuild kits contain new gaskets, and new diaphrams plus instructions for proper setup and adjustments. A flaw so small you cant see it will cause an issue! Make sure all passages are clear by running a small wire thu them then blow them out. A tiny spec of dirt you cant see will cause real problems. Carb jets are matched to airflow with airbox and filters in place, all carb machines will run lean without airbox and filter in place. Also check your spark, it should jump a 3/16" gap and be blue, not yellow! Follow instruction to the letter or be prepared to do it over again. Good luck

 

Thanks, appreciate it.
This carb has no gaskets. The diaphragm is extremely expensive for a piece of rubber. But I agree with your logic. I removed all the jets, cleared them, blew them out, etc. There was nothing visual blocking them, but worth a try anyways.
I have the new petcock coming this week I hope. So in the meantime I will install everything back together with the air box installed and hope for the best. It is a real bear to get those hoses back together though. I hope it could be something that simple. Fingers crossed.

Cheers.

 

.Many folks jump right in a buy a cheap aftermarket carb which rarely work rather than rebuilding the factory carb. In more than 90% of cases the rebuilt carb works correctly as long as a good rebuild kit is used and instructions followed to a tee.. Lots of folks throw money away on a cheap aftermarket carb only to end up buying a good rebuild kit and starting over. Cant recall how many times I have saw this in these forums.

 

OPT liked Shindy carb kits.