DreyMac,

The Manual actually has more engine compression braking than the auto, you just have to learn how to use it. ON the auto the transmission automatically down shifts when going down a hill. ON the Manual you have to down shift it manually to increase the engine braking. Otherwise you will be free wheeling down the hill in 5th gear.

What range do you use to go down the hill on the auto? What gear/range where you in on the manual?

 

DreyMac:
Very glad to hear you came out OK, sounds like a rough trip. The 'Cat is definately a great machine, but can be replaced. Human life unfortunately cannot, and I'm glad to hear you're alright. I think it's wise to take it easy on the manual after installation of the lift, spacers and tires, just to get a feel for it before really getting on it.

On a side note though, After you do get it together, I'd like to hear your thoughts and opinions on the performance, and how it works for you with the new mods.

Take care of yourself,

Mike

 

BONER,

Point well taken regarding the braking capabilitites of the Manual. You are absolutely right. Downshifting is the most powerful and the safest form of braking. You just have to have the reaction time and skill to use it. I guess that leaves me out;-)

I was probably in 4th gear coming off of a long flat straight before the hill. Due to my inexperience with the rocker shifter and my tendency to try to down shift the way you do on a dirt bike, I may have put it into 5th accidently. I'm prettty sure I would have ridden it out in 3rd gear without incidence.

Still, I think the point is valid, for novice, new or "re-experienced" riders the Auto is a safer alternative to the manual until you get more experience under your belt.

COWBOY,

Thanks for your concern and hunting feedback. I will critique the impact of tires, lift and spacers on the Manual in a later post.

 

Glad someone's harvest is going well. Out here, anything not irrigated is pretty well toast. Corn doing less than 10 bushels per acre. Also I think politicians should have to live by EVERY law on the books so they could get an idea of what we have to deal with. Anyway, back to the forum topic. Our 'new' (new to us - actually a 1982) combine has the main threshing drive mechanism belt driven. It uses a variable speed belt to adjust cylinder speed, and even a belt as the 'clutch' Engine rating is 125 HP. Belt drive is plenty strong if engineered right. Note to Honda guys The Massey combines use a hydrostatic drive with no problems pulling even more horsepower than that. Owners are cautioned to not let the oil cooler plug with chaff, though.
I noticed someone mentioned that gear drive is stronger than belt drive, which is probably true, but with the belt you have a safety valve of sorts. If you are grossly overpulling your atv & pull a belt, you may curse it, but it is a hekkuva lot easier/cheaper than replaceng a stripped gear or cooked clutch pak.
Farmr

 

Farmr:
Another very good point about the belt drives acting as a "safety" mechanism as well. It is definately a lot cheaper to replace the belt, than all the other items that could be damaged due to gear breakage. From the atv perspective, you could also look at the belt vent openings as the same way. What happens with water in the belt? Gets wet, and dries out after a few minutes. Yeah, it may slip, but that's something you can live with for a few minutes. Now, with snorkeled machines, vent openings higher up on the machine, where's the water going to get in now and do damage? Carb ring a bell? I think we all know the consequences of water in the carbuerator, so in my opinion, I'd much rather risk getting my belt wet, than sucking it into the engine itself! Just a thought.

Man, 10 bushels/acre on corn??? Sounds like you guys are having a rough time back there.

Take care,

Mike

 

My 2000 auto works great...but the gas mileage
sucks big time!
If mileage is an issue for you, forget the auto.
butch

 

The manual 500 Cat has a slower engine braking
effect than the auto, yes!...but, the 500 auto
Cat, in 4-wheel drive, and in low range is
slowed enough where on all but the very steepest slopes you will find yourself having to give
it throttle to get down the hill.
butchcuz@home.com
Louisville, KY

 

Better yet, if mileage is an issue, get a 300!

 

I think that the manual has alot more torque! for pulling and good for climbing due to the 10 sp tranny.

 

I was also not happy with the mileage on my wifes 500 auto. When hot it would idle rough & cough when the throttle was increased. The spark plug was black. It came with a 150 main jet. I installed a 145 and it is much better. I'm at 1100 feet. Depending on your altitude you might try a a size up or down from that. I use a 138 when we go to the high altitudes in Colorado. You could also try to reduce the primary jet size also. It is the small jet next to the main jet.