If the top washer is not in there the slide works right but the needle will retract to far and over richen the engine causing the stumble and bad bog in 3rd and 4th and 5th gears. I know as, when I bought mine the big nylon washer was missing and it drove me crazy until I tore the carb down and inventoried the pieces with the parts breakdown. Instant fix with a $1.50 part.

 

Sounds like a freezeout plug? $1.50 for the part 200 hours labor to repair it!!!
1st
Man, I feel bad for this guy parts are falling out of the carb.
Garrett good luck at this point what's the cost for another carb? But you have to ask yourself what changed in the carb since you bought the quad? This whole thread is behooving! I can't believe the problem was gone and now returned. DID YOU CHECK THE FUEL FILTER???

 

there is a couple of tiny tiny peices of black crap but thats it. i just put it on not long ago. i know, its getting real frustrated. i guess my quad was trying to annoy me by working fine after we fixed something and then be doing it again a week later. aghhhh!!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]

 

should i check the little filter in the petcock? also, it seems like where i put the fuel filter, it is at not much of an angel, and it seems like it isnt filling all the way. only like a third fills. could that be it? when it is getting in the higher gears and needs the gas, it cant get it. and bear, i took apart the carb and ressambled it, the washers were both there. i forgot to check the float height, but i didnt put it back together, because when that washer fell out of the float bowl ( i think it was the main jet washer) my da cant find it, and we were gonna put it abck in.

 

Fuel filter do not always fill completely with ful. This is normal as long as there is goo fuel flow thru it. The washer under the main jet sometimes will effect fuel flow by moving the jet up in the float bowl fuel or restricting the flow on the back side of the jet or allow leakage around the base of the jet. They put it there for a reason, replace it. Are you sure you fuel vent is clear? To check pull the fuel line off the filter and just let the fuel run in to a container, If the flow slows down after a while or becomes intermittent the the vent is plug. Pull the vent hose off the tank and see if the flow improves, ifit doesn't run a peice of wire down thru the tank vent nipple and see if that helps. If not you may need to drain the tank and look at the tank fuel out let and see if crud is partially plugging it.

 

I have a 2000 250 and if i don't turn off my fuel shut off valve and it's stop for awhile i have a hard time starting it.It turns slow at first cause it's flooded,been like that for a long time.But if my fuel was shut off it start right away.Guess my needle valve don't seal right but no big deal.Hope this help .Lucien

 

thats it, i couldnt take it anymore. i thought i fixed it with the pilot screw, but i guess i didnt. i few weeks ago, wouldnt start. turn over, turn over, and never fire up, i ended up pop starting it. the damn thing has been like this for so long, i sent it to a mechanic. he thinks i might need something fixed with the valves, for how the engine is turning over, adn he also thinks i might need new rings. so... great, there goes 500 bucks out of my pocket. i hate this.

 

garret
a while ago I asked if you did a compression test you said you did no prob. I also said three things for good ignition was fuel, air mix, and timing.
Think, what have you missed. Your plugs are not wet, air probs; filter, vacuum, head gasket (normally shows on comp test but not always) Way back when we would use ether when engine was running rough to determine head gasket. If when idling rough you sprayed the ether around heads (Engine cold) and it started to run smooth that would indicate gasket. the air sucked into the gasket was replaced by something combustable. If you stomp on it and the roughness goes away I promise you it's air probs. Timing is a problem at high AND low revs but overheating is previlant in some cases and popping back through the carb or exhaust is also an indication of timing. Don't spend that money yet.
How about something as dumb as a spark wire grounding out (shorting) most seen when bike is running in the dark you will see the arc, hear the snap. I don't know quads enough to tell you if theres a vac advance or is it electronic. If electronic, maybe the price of a new box may be cheaper I don't know. But the box requires info for advancing timing and not advancing. I just came home from a full body massage and need to RELAX MORE hope this info was helpful
keep me posted
1st

 

well, i sent it out tuesday, and we got it back wednesday from the mech. the guy is good friends with my dad and we got it done for checp. he looked at it said said he knew the problem right from hearing how it turned over. he ended up adjusting the valves( second time in 6 months) and since we have already doe it twice, and that short of time, the cam is probably starting to wear or the springs are getting weak. and believe me, 1st, me and my dad have been screwing around with evrything for probably 3 months now, and we just decided he didnt fell like working on the valves( we almost knew it was that) because he hasnt did anyhting with the valveson it before, so we we sent it to the guy.

 

also, when u got into like third gear, it would pop back into the carb when u stomped on it. and also, if the valves were way off, it would do the same thing.