Thanks to everyone. here are the problems and what I have done already:

1. Turn the key. No lights on the instrument pod. No headlights. Won't start with the electric starter.
2. Pull crank. Everything lights up on the instrument pod. Headlights on, but with a noticeable flicker at idle.
3. I checked all fuses in the battery box and the 30 amp at the starter relay. All are fine, but I changed everyone.
4. I put on a new battery.
5. I am scratching my head. If it is the relay, is there anyway to test it? Can I bypass it to see if that is the problem?

 

I have about the same situation. havn't had time to work on it any more???? maybe this weekend

 

I am planning on doing some work tonight myself. I will let you know what I find out.

One thing to note: I didn't have any problems at all until I hooked up to a battery charger and tried to crank it. That is what made me think about a fuse. But after I looked at the electrical schematic and saw what all it could be I had no clue.

Arctic Cat 400 Electrical Schematic

 

I would try changing the start relay first, make sure you have a good connection, both in and out of it, and make sure the fuse is seated fully. If the ignition switch is fine, there's really nothing else if the battery is OK. Start it, check for 14.5VDC on the battery terminals, if so, the VR is working properly. Check ALL you chassis grounds, make sure that they're clean and tight.

 

If you change the start relay you will find it will fix nothing and you wasted you money. If you want to check the relay, it has a small connector. One side is ground and the other is hot when the key is on and the start button is pushed. If not so the problem is elsewhere. You can crank the motor if there is power, 12 Volts DC at the battery side of the large terminals on the solenoid. If not the you have a battery or main large wires off the battery to the solenoid and the frame ground problem. Have you checked the battery again to make sure it is good?

 

OK mine was in the brake light switch on the hand brake. Will let you know what I end up after I replace it

 

If you are in neutral the brake switch shouldn't change anything.

 

I'm just speaking from experience here, the relay fuse was blown and I had the exact same symptoms. SO eliminating that possiblilty is not a waste of time. Check the relay coil, should get some resistance there. Take the battery out and have it load tested. I assume you checked your grounds. It does sound like a bad ground somewhere.

 

I am pretty sure my ign switch is good because it kills everything when you turn it off. I am not sure about the grounds where do I need to look?

 

Doesn't mean the part of the switch that turns on the power to the start switch and lights is good. Different part of switch the the stop curcuit. Main ground wire run from negative side of battery to the frame. There should also be a small ground wire to the battery terminal also.