Its not the ground. I grounded to the frame and still get nothing. I haven't checked the solenoid. That is next. May be the switch.

 

automan, where is the little wire you are talking about? I pulled the relay and there was a lot of rust around the top of the screws that hold the battery cable and starter cable. I cleaned it off, but didn't see what you were talking about. Thanks.

 

I think automan is incorrect on where the power feed to the electrical system feed is. The power comes off the battery terminal or the battery side of the start solenoid then thru thr fuse panel. The only thing in the solenoid is a coil to activate the relay contacts.

 

[quote]
Originally posted by: duckdawg
I am planning on doing some work tonight myself. I will let you know what I find out.

One thing to note: I didn't have any problems at all until I hooked up to a battery charger and tried to crank it. That is what made me think about a fuse. But after I looked at the electrical schematic and saw what all it could be I had no clue.


I would be very concerned about a blown relay or coil. You definitely caused the problem by hooking up a battery charger and trying to crank it. I know people are going to say that they've done it before and I'm sure they have and gotten away with it. However, this should never be done on such a small amperage system. You should always disconnect your battery and then charge it. Or simply pull start your machine and drive it for awhile and let it charge itself if a charger is not available. (this is not the best though because it puts additional strain on your charging system....running at 100% for an extended period)

An easy way to test the relay: Get a volt meter (DC) and check the volts on the battery post. Then follow the wire to the relay and check the volts going into the relay. (take the cover off the relay if necessary) They should be the same. Now turn the key on and check the outgoing side of the relay. That should have power when they key is on.....if it does not grab a buddy and have him/her hold the start switch in and check again. If no power yet this is your problem....or at least it should be your problem.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the coil. It sounds like it is working if you can pull start your machine and the lights begin to work after it is running.

Hope this helps.

 

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I see your point, but if he had to hook up a battery charger, then he already had a problem, or he wouldn't have had to hook up a charger in the first place.

I do agree that an <U>improperly</U> charged battery <U>can</U> cause problems.

 

I ran the battery down last duck season, actually a friend did. He choked it, cranked it and left the choke on. About a 1/2 mile down the trail it went dead. He kept trying to crank it, lights on and everything and ran the battery down. I came out of the woods with another friend after he called us on the radio, saw the problem and we pull cranked it. The battery was about dry and won't hold a charge. I like an idiot kept trying to charge it with no water in it, but I never unhooked it from the 4whlr. Finally tried cranking off the 75amp side of the battery charger. I didn't have problems right away but they did start developing after I did this. I know better now, but its too late.
I know I have power on the battery side of the relay, but I need to get the wife out and help me test with the key and starter button. Thanks guys.

 

i dont think im wrong but just to test my idea anyone else pull the 30 amp fuse from the starter relay i bet it wont lite up or start off the switch but i also bet it will start off the pull start and the lights will flicker as you rev the bike and will be very dim at idle but hell what do i know im just an ase certified master tech have been for 10 years

 

there is a small metal wire if you clean the relay up really good you will see what i mean it actually feeds power to the fuse from the main terminal on the relay it corrodes in half you will have to look really close to see what im talking about

 

Ok, I tested the start relay this afternoon. The battery show like 11.9 dc, the battery post side of the start relay showed the same. With the key off the starter side has no voltage. With the key on it has no voltage. With the key on and starter pushed it shows no volts. Sounds like a bad relay based on the previous posts.

I will see if I can get one tomorrow and let everybody know what happens.

Should I be able to jump start the starter across the relay, like on most lawnmowers?

 

Ok, you just gave me info that says your battery is not charged. A fully charged battery will be a minimum of 12.3 volts. 11.9 is pretty much flat. When you try to crank the starter the battery should never drop below 10.5 volts and starting at 11.9 will drop it lower than that. Admittedly this is not your primary problem, but it will be once you find whats wrong for no power to the electrics. The only time the starter side of the solenoid will have power is when the solenoid is energized. And that is when Key is on and starter button depressed. Have you check the fuses in cluding the main fuse?